Help on ENGINE REMOVAL R32 Gts-t

[luckydip]

I'm about to do a engine/gearbox in and out job on a R32 Gts-t.

Q1. Can the engine and gearbox come out TOGETHER as one unit?

Q2. Has anyone tried dropping the both out THROUGH THE BOTTOM still

connected to crossmember and suspension?

If you have how does it compare with out through the top?

Thanks

[blind_elk]

I did a R32 GTS4 engine swap (RB20DET -> RB25DET), removing the engine out the top. It is an absolute pig of a job. There is very little room to get at anything. I swear, IF I do it again, it all comes out the bottom.

In particular, I had problems removing / refitting the starter motor, and I couldn't get one of the top gearbox bolts back in. And I had to remove the alternator, and both engine mounts to get it out.

If you have a hoist, then it is probably easier to bring the engine and gearbox as one unit out from underneath (that's the reverse of how it was assembled in the first place)

[luckydip]

Thanks blind elk. By the sounds of it you took out motor and left gearbox in car?

I have got access to a hoist.

[Bl4cK32]

i took out the rb20 box in the car, the the motor out from the top.

Replaced it with a rb31det, with a rb25det gearbox bolted on, inlet manifold, exhaust manifoild, turbo, starter all attached.....in through the top using a hydraulic 2t crane

Was a piece of piss...took about an hour and a half of friggin aound to get it to sit on the mounts though.

Ther crane only goes so far in, so you have to get someone in the bay to lift box over radiator support. Once over jump out, then have two people under, or a trolley on wheels to slide the box back as you lower the lot.

Oh yer.. When you get as far as you can go over the top, the engine is still over the radiator support. To clear it, you have to lower the crane while pushing the motor and box forward at the same time....kind of down and forward together...

Easy as once its in, just had to plug it all up and your away......

[blind_elk]

Thanks blind elk.  By the sounds of it you took out motor and left gearbox in car?

I have got access to a hoist.

Yes, left the box in the car, otherwise need to figure out how to re-connect and bleed ATTESSA hydraulics. But I would do the "engine and box out the bottom" next time (if there is a next time).

From Bl4cK32's description, sounds like its a no-brainer to take it out the bottom.

[Bl4cK32]

i dont think you can take it out the bottom if you left the box in. Normally you undo the 4? bolts holding in the engine cross member, check for anything else holding it in and lower it.

BUT you have to pull the input shaft out the back of the crank, so you may get a catch 22....undo the lot and see if the lot (motor and x member) slides forward enough to clear the shaft...i dunno cos i dropped the lot in through the top

[luckydip]

Thanks guys

We are going to try taking the whole lot out from the bottom - box and all on AFL grand final weekend (my teams out so I don't give a s@#^ who wins)

If there is anyone eles out there who have done it this way...I'll like input.

[gtst25]

I read an old zoom article where JMS removed the moter/g/box in a 33 gtr from the bottom. It sounded easy with a hoist - if you don't want scratches I'd say it'd be the way to go. I've done it a lot of times from the top and always said I'd like to do it from the bottom if I had a hoist...!

[Ahh32]

Just pulled my motor out again. i was going to go the bottom route but. after pulling the crossmember and steering rack off there are 4 pipes for the p/steering/ 4ws, i didn't wanna take these off so i went out the top again. took the G/box off first. took less than an hour, easiest part. jack the front of the motor up a bit to get to the top g/box bolts with a long extension. rattle gun and swivel helps too.

with the top starter motor bolt. i used several extensions, 14mm socket. . connect them together until the ratchet is above the alternator and then undo or tighten from there. easy.

[Targa Tom]

Thanks blind elk.  By the sounds of it you took out motor and left gearbox in car?

I have got access to a hoist.

We take the GB off first (unbolt cross-member to Access top of bell housing) and motor out through the top.

On way in we assemble lot first and go in from the top with a trolly jack under the diff.

Hope this helps next time.. Good luck at Baksy tomorrow.

TT

[Cubes]

I recently did mine.

It all came out the top.

I ended up pulling off the inlet & exhaust while the engine was in the the car.

I then dropped the gearbox cross-member and guided the box out while my old man worked the block and tackle.. Was a piece of piss.

Took 10mins all up from dropping the gearbox cross-member.

Putting the motor/gearbox back in was just as easy except this time it had everything fitted.

Exhaust manifold/inlet/plenum/starter etc.

Lining up the engine mounts was easy providing some one is under the car lifting up the gearbox. Once the gearbox is lined up so does the engine mounts.

[The Dan]

CRAP. Bearbox comes off in 20 minutes, engine out the top in a hour.

If you have the right tools then this is how long it should take.

ahh!!....no questions...just DO IT.

[BigC1988]

I just got my RB25DET (series 2) and I was hoping you could help me with some questions.

My Skyline is non turbo so it will be a big step with the RB25.

Now then, my first question is about the gearbox mounts, I hear they aren't the same and I will also have problems with the speedo meter. What do you know about this? Can I use the Xmember of the R33 ??

The second is about the harness, everyone that has ever swapped an engine told me that the harness is the most difficult part of the swap. Do you have the diagram of the R32 and the R33 (still can't find it for the R32) and some pointers on how this is done??

Hope to get a reply from you soon

Carlos Rudolph

[BH_SLO32]

I have pulled RB engines and gearboxes (non 4wd) out the top so many times I have lost count. I have an engine crane only but almost always will pull the gearbox out with the engine because it is much quicker than removing the gearbox whilst in the car (if the engine has to come out as well). Disconnect the power steering pump and AC compressor and pull to one side. Disconnect the exhaust dump pipe, heater hoses, and wiring to the starter, alternator and gearbox. Remove the engine wiring by disconnecting sensors and then secure above firewall. Remove radiator and intake piping, vacuum hoses as required. Remove tailshaft and disconnect speedo drive.

You can then remove the single engine mount nut for each side by removing from underneath the cross member. With a jack underneath the gearbox, remove the 4 cross member retaining bolts. With the engine crane positioned over the engine slightly forwards of the engine mid length position, you can load the engine crane and drop the gearbox partially. Note, you will need a reasonable angle on the engine if you are to get the gearbox bellhousing over the radiator support. Remember to add a plug to the back of the gearbox to prevent loss of fluid.

It usually takes me about 10-15mins to remove and install an engine and gearbox once everything has been removed/disconnected. I usually will have 1 or 2 people present to ensure nothing grabs when the engine is coming out or going back in.

Some food for thought.

Cheers