Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me if the Series 2 skyline has a fuel cut built into it.

The problem is when the boost is put to about 13-14psi, what happens is when the car is hammered occasionally the engine seems to stop periodically, I am assuming injectors turn off and on to protect the engine from damage.

Is this an issue with the fuel pump not keeping up and leaning out or do I have no idea at all and should shut the hell up : :Bang:

Only happens under full load, the car has a 3.5" Exhaust, new Hybrid FMIC and a Turbo Smart Bleed valve.

Does anyone know how to get around this without a replacement ECU if it is a computer problem, if it is fuel pump issue thats easy :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50989-series-2-r33-fuel-cust-question/
Share on other sites

HiMarkO this questions is asked so often it feels like Groundhog Day. I suggest you do a search of posts on "Overboost Protection" by "Sydneykid", you will find the full story there. In particular you should read the posts on "SAFC" and overboost protection.

Hope that helps :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah yep. I asked a auto electrician about getting a cheap rebuilt alternator vs a new one. He also said he used to it back in the day but it ended up costing similar to what a new one would and recommended getting a new one,.
    • Ah, to clarify if the car has already been tuned and has been modified and you want to go from a oem cat to a 100 cell or decat or vice versa.Are you saying that the car doesn't need to be tuned after a cat change if it's already been tuned?
    • This has been covered a bazillion times but google wet boiling point vs dry. Motul is only good when it's fresh, once it absorbs moisture it gets pretty average very quickly. So as above, make sure you change it if you're going racing. I run the Endless brake fluid in mind, but only because a mate is a distributor and it's cheap. It's not quite as good as SRF but I'm running 380mm rotors on a Skyline so it's not like they get hot.
    • That's the thing, they still add it and it makes fuel cheaper, implying adding 10% of it drops the cost of 91 by what, 5c a liter? I remember when it was barely half the price of 98. Because you know, 85% of what is in the fuel is way cheaper than 91 fuel is by volume.
    • Auto electricians that do repairs on automotive AC systems can source service kits. I don't know where they actually source them. I do know that there is one available for the R34 comp that I would need it for. If you have to pay someone to dismantle, clean and do needed repairs and fit kit contents, then you'd probably end up spending a good fraction of the cost of a new one. I would not be paying for that, because I would be doing it myself. My mechanic (bro-in-law) will happily source what is needed. Back in the day (like in the 80s and 90s), rebuilding an AC compressor was the standard approach, same as for starter motors, alternators, etc, because new replacements were v. expensive. After the China manufacturing boom and the rise of the disposable approach to everything, people just started throwing broken/worn stuff away and not rebuilding things.
×
×
  • Create New...