Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My stubborn bitch of an Auto R33 has decided that she'll start playing silly buggers with her revs :D .

Pulled up to the lights the other day everything was fine for 5 seconds then all of a sudden her rev's start surging and eventually she cut out ..... but restarted without a problem. Had no problem for a couple of days then this morning she starts bouncing them up and down at the lights again .... so i shifted it into neutral before it had a chance to cut out which stabilised them.

Just then at lunch i was watching the SAFC and when i stopped at one set of lights it was stable reving at 800rpm .... then at another set it was stable reving at 650rpm. Put it in reverse and it starts surging again.

I think hot weather also plays a part in this - the hotter the weather the more problems it seems to have - cold starts are fine - hot starts well its really hard to start in hot weather!!

Anyone have any ideas ..... pleeeeeezzzeee im desperate and i dont want to deal with this once summer kicks in with full blast!

Theres no aftermarket BOV's on it has SAFC II, EBC, Zorst, dumps and engine rebuild.

Cheers

Lauren

i had a similar problem with my R32GTSt auto

at the lights, engine goes from 800 rpm to 2000 to 400 to 2000 to 400 (about 5 times) then stalls :D

started it up and was fine again :confused:

happened again before i got home

that night, i thought to myself, 'what the hell could it be?'. i could only think it was some sort of bad reading on a sensor somewhere.

I did the following to the car:

- ECU diagnostics check (came up all ok)

- cleaned AFM (and took off plug and put it back in to make sure there was good contact)

- cleaned O2 sensor with brake cleaner (to remove any carbon blocking the probe)

- cleaned air filter

- cleaned AAC valve with brake cleaner

- re-set ECU

have since never seen the problem surface its ugly head again!

if this is no help to you then my best bet to point the finger at is the AFM. i would try to source a replacement one to try to see if that fixes the problem.

hope that helps!

Warren.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
    • Mate, I take this thread in random directions on occasion myself, so no foul I'm a old fan of MCM anyway, I like their banter, and enjoy most of the stuff they do
    • Something strange is happening. I didn't touch the car since we last spoke on the forums. Yesterday was the first day of good weather, so i took it out for about 2 hours. It started up on first crank every time about 5 times total. I literally didn't do anything to do the car.  
    • I purchased this one. Very well priced and works great. I was rough with it to see if it will last and had no issues.  Teslong Two-Way Articulating Borescope with Light, Industrial Endoscope Inspection Camera with Articulated Probe, Flexible Mechanic Fiber Optic Snake Scope Cam for Wall Automotive Engine Inspect-5FT : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
×
×
  • Create New...