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Looking to trade for another tastefully modded Nissan,

Why? I don’t really know why I just feel like a change.

Specs,

1993 300ZX Twin Turbo, 2 Seater Targa Top, 132,000 km's serviced every 5,000

Full 100,000km service preformed at 102,000 km's

5spd MT with short throw shifter

Unknown brand Heavy duty possibly brass button clutch

Rush 02 Race pod

Radiator air guide

3" front pipe back twin exhaust, not dump pipe back, with Magnaflow DTM tips

Custom Made FMIC and hard pipe kit (polished)

HKS Super Blow Off Valve Kit, mounted on hard pipes. (old skool HKS bov's)

HKS turbo timer

TOMIE 320Km/h Speedo

Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost controller

Greddy pillar mount boost gauge

Greddy Shifter knob

Greddy Speed cut defender

Aftermarket Steering wheel with nismo horn

Cusco rear strut brace

New suspension bushes

Adjustable Camber rods on the front

Dropped on its guts, also have original ride height springs

Ewing 17" Dish rims (Jap) 255's rear and 235 fronts

Full Bomex Body kit, Front bar/Side skirts/Lower rear bar/Wing/Center nose panel

Interior is in great condition, as with the body but as usual front bar needs a re spray from various stone chips.

Just had it dynode yesterday made 304.3 RWHP at .85-.9 bar boost hasn’t ever been tuned, and the AF was really rich where it was making the power as Nissans do so a tune should see a much higher figure.

300dyno.jpg

Pics of the car, *note some where taken before certain things where done etc... *

MyzedsFMIC.jpg

phatlowerage2.jpg

300zinside.jpg

300zspeedo.jpg

dusk-18-2.jpg

300Zee-Grass1.jpg

TheZed.jpg

To contact e-mail me at [email protected]

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah was gonna say as it wouldn't line up correctly, I imagine if they put the wheel that way it would mess with the wheel alignment.
    • My Neo turbo only went last year. Not 35 years old, to be sure - closer to 25. But still.
    • There's no way they left the factory like that. In R chassis there is nothing stopping the steering wheel being put on one spline out from straight, and then adjusting the steering arms to "correct" it (sort of). As well as the indicator cancelling there would also be an issue with how tight you can turn in one direction to the other. The other (less likely) possibility is that the "clock spring" (the circular electronic part that allows the wheel to turn while still having an electrical connection for horn and any other buttons like cruise) might not be in place correctly. I don't have any pics of the R33 (or Stagea) setup but there would be a circular locating tab which sits in the steering column to have it straight...if that is not seated properly then the indicators may not cancel at the right point (and, you might also get a HICAS error since it would think you are driving in circles)
    • It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons. I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!
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