Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before i take it to a tuner...just got a power fc second hand from another r33 skyline...ive noticed it was mapped for a vg30 airlow meter when i started her up...it didnt want to idle....i changed it to the coresponding AFM and she started beautifully...i also noticed the car was completly cold and it didnt give me that warm up rev? (that higher than usual rev like normal ecus do... is this normal for a PFC?) and another thing once it acutally warmed up... i took it round the block for a drive and everthing seemed fine....switched her off and tried to start it and she wouldnt start again? :confused:

Any PFC gurus out there that could possibly figure this one out? as its all new to me and any info would be greatly appreciated :headspin: :headspin: :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51114-power-fc-question/
Share on other sites

its always fun picking ur brain sydneykid :)

what compensations would u have to make if i have a slightly higher comp then normal, larger injectors, cams etc in terms of fuel.. more? or less? or it should run?

it was a tune form croydon.... i wouldnt want to throw away the $800 the other fellow paid do i? :wassup:

its always fun picking ur brain sydneykid :)  

what compensations would u have to make if i have a slightly higher comp then normal, larger injectors, cams etc in terms of fuel.. more? or less? or it should run?

it was a tune form croydon.... i wouldnt want to throw away the $800 the other fellow paid do i?  :wassup:

Worth a try, first job is to list his mods side by side with yours. If there are too many differences it is usually better to staret from scratch (ie; the default Apexi maps).

In the second menu from the top you'll have to change the settings to 4 door mode aswell to compensate for the extra weight :D

Thanks for the tip....:)

whilst playing with the hand controller next to the function for extra doors............ i saw a function saying VL goodness please select :shake: :shake:

:jump:

Do you know the exact mods that the other car had, Steve?

Put yours on one side and their's on the other and let us have a look at it. If they're vastly different, i reckon it's probably best to reset it back to factory....oh and don't forget to turn the Apexi Boost Control setting off.

Oh and cut off those unneseccary doors, dude.

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...