Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My Budget RB20DET-

 

Imported with HKS Super Dragger exhaust and K&N Big Mother air pod

Added TurboSmart boost controller - $250, dynoed @ 150rwkw

Added Dump Pipe - $300

Added Cold Air Induction - Free

Added RB25 Turbo - $350

Added Front-Mount - $500 (inc pipes, see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47918)

Added additional Cold Air Induction - $50

 

Next I want to remap the ECU and then it's time to Dyno it again. Hopeing to be around 200rwkw for around $1K. Then that's it with RB20DET, move on before blowing the budget.

I don't think you can achieve a real 200rwkw with the small stock injectors, from the dyno i have experience with, the stock injectors will max out 180rwkw and by then the mixtures will be fairly lean at that.

My Rb20 with RB25 turbo, pod and 3" turbo back exhaust did only 130 rwkw with stock boost and everything else and 11.3 A/F ratio.

My RB20 did 150rwkw with 3" cat back exhaust, pod and turbo smart boost controller on the UAS dyno. What Dyno where you running it on? I've now got a FMIC, 3" dump pipe, CAI and an RB25 turbo, hasnt been dyno'ed with the latest mods yet however.

my 2c...which aint much :)

 

buy a rb30 bottom end from wreckers (mine cost $100 ;))

buy an rb25de head (mine cost $750)

do a std bottom end rebuild of the rb30 using same pistons, just hone, new rings and bearings ($850?)

 

bolt on head to block, drill tap tensioner, $30 timing belt, 2x rb30 tensioners ($80 ea)

 

how much so far?...using rb20 sump, manifolds, turbo (i am to start :)) water pump, rb20 oil pump....no costs here.

 

redrill engine mounts to lower engine, plug in rb20 sensors, mod front pipe.

 

done...turn key and watch the rb30 rumble for under 2k.

 

But as they say...the spending never stops once it starts....i wish i had kept to the plan above and watch people grin :)

 

Seriously though i had the same drama as you. Rb20 blew, and went the rb31. Never look back now :)

The rebuild costs your mentioning, is that doing it yourself? Would there be the need for any boring or machining?

don't think you can achieve a real 200rwkw with the small stock injectors, from the dyno i have experience with, the stock injectors will max out 180rwkw and by then the mixtures will be fairly lean at that

Na stock injectors are good for 200-220rwkw. my 32 makes 190rwkw with stock injectors, pump, reg etc no worries.

I didn't think you could put the rb20 head onto the rb30 bottom end? Is what your saying just a miss type? Or can it really be done?

Using my Rb20 head would be a lot more easy, then looking for an rb25 head if I went that way with a motor build up.

Shoot about 10 years ago using an RB20 cylinder head on RB30's was common. It is a prick of a job, welding, redrilling machining etc. But the result was better than a SOHC cylinder head. Wouldn't even think of doing it now with RB25 cylinder head's being so common and RB26 top ends being almost affordable. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...