Jump to content
SAU Community

V-mounting intercooler

redline2003

By redline2003,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

hehe would push the intercooler into the engine.... its real tight in a skyline enginebay as it is. with an SR conversion it'd be awesome, but I don't see many advantages in a skyline engine bay with an RB. real estate front to back is real tight in one of those. Didn't really think about the heat rising from the radiator...

Ive been a fan of the open V mount... ie radiator vertical behind the intercooler which is on an angle with a bonnet vent... but the V mount on the R31 is interesting... for race use only I guess.

If you wanted to be a real tricky dicky you'd make the whole thing out of flexible piping and mount some servo's to move the radiator and Intercooler from vertical to V mount according tot he speed you were goin at... :D hmmm now there's an idea...

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
.....

If you wanted to be a real tricky dicky you'd make the whole thing out of flexible piping and mount some servo's to move the radiator and Intercooler from vertical to V mount according tot he speed you were goin at... :D hmmm now there's an idea...

LoL all the gain you got from the shoter pipes etc, you would lose in tricky electronic gear :P

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
what if you leave the radiator as is and mount the ic on top of the engine(possibly a sm but thicker radiator to compensate that way the fans can still suck air through the radiator and pull air through the intercoller, best of both worlds?

K

Like a subaru?

aybee Experienced

aybee

Posted
Posted
Yep, but the hot air comes up from the radiator and goes through the intercooler and out the bonnet (ie; hot air rises) On its way though the hot air heats up the intercooler.  That never happens with a FMIC, the radiator is behind the intercooler and the engine or electric fan sucks the hot air from the radiator, away from the intercooler.

In a > mount in traffic or stationary, the intercooler will quickly get to 90 degrees, which is the temperature of the air coming out of the radiator.  It will cool down once you get moving, that why it is an OK setup in a race car.  But a waste of time and money in a road car.

Oh and you should see the damage if you have a slight front end tap, makes a real effenn mess. :D

but at idle the turbo is not running any boost. so it wouldnt really matter would it? as soon as you start moving the superior air flow would cool it down pretty quickly. wouldnt it?

.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
but at idle the turbo is not running any boost. so it wouldnt really matter would it? as soon as you start moving the superior air flow would cool it down pretty quickly. wouldnt it?

.

Ahh no, the intercooler is still hot, so it heats up the air going through it. Until it cools down, maybe 2 to 10 seconds depending on speed and ambient air temp. :D

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

This is what i'll be running in the lancer project im working on ATM, however the is no reason that the intake itself cannot be partitioned right from the intake itself, running a thermo fan on both the radiator and the intercooler! separate intake ans thermo's fresh air at any speed to both cooling devices!

OH and whats wrong with running the radiator at the top to stop further heat soak????

i will be keeping an eye on this thread for sure!

GTR-NUTTER - that would defeat the purpose.. they want separate intakes for both devices, so a conventional IC with horizontal radiator would still be heated by the IC before the rad!

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
....

OH and whats wrong with running the radiator at the top to stop further heat soak????

.....

I guess because that kills the idea of having shorter piping???

Which brings me to my next question, does taking out that little amount of piping have that much effect???

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

that could be true, but it would depend on what engine the car was using! if say it was a front facing plenum then the IC on top wouldn't really affect the pipe length compared to below....

however a standard rb25 inlet manifold would best be used with the IC on top, this i pressume wouldn't be the case if going to the length of ">" mounting these coolers!

better response from throttle on/off, and minimal chance of heat soaking the pipes (not an issue really within the pipes only IC core)

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

But if you have the money to throw around on > mounting stuff, then you probably have the money for better forward facing plenums, and internals, and turbos, etc etc :mad: Either that or WAYYYY tooo much time on your hands.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Intro/R33 owner

      By PranK · Posted

      Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • MBS206
      Intro/R33 owner

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Yeetus
      Another "where do these lines and plugs go" RB25DET question

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...