Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to all this modding stuff, and I'm planning on having a crack at puting on my Blitz turbo back exhaust this weekend. I have my brother and father telling me i'll need a hoist, but I never listen to them anyway. :(

Could people out there give me any suggestions/pointers as to how to go about this as I am not the most competant person with a socket wrench ;)

Cheers. :rofl:

well, its easy. We did it in about 30 mins on my Series II R33.

You'll need this tube of stuff that is pretty much a liquid gasket, put alot on and join the pipes. I have forgotten that name, but its good shit. Sets when the heat gets into it.

You'll need some bolt off, and a good socket set.

The ONLY hard part about doing this is the dump pipe. Getting it off the back of the turbo without snapping bolts. If you can do this, then it will be a walk in the park.

I suggest putting the car on a hoist, or over a pit, and going to work. I am lucky enough to have a mate that has a hoist, just to work on all of our cars, and that helps 500%.

Hoists are like a gift from god, when you have access to one easily.

But its not a hard job, just be prepared if you snap a bolt or something like that.

Also, its easy to just take the exhaust off from the back of the front pipe all in one piece. Then do the dump on its own

Cheers... sounds like I may be out of my depth, but I have nothing to lose so i'll give it a shot haha... where would I get this 'tube of stuff' from hehe?

I'll talk to the guys at autobarn (gf's friend) and i'l lsee if he has any stuff like it.

Anyone else got suggestions?

Just got mine done a few days ago. I had to do was slightly modify the turbo heat shield to fit the bigger dump pipe. The bigger problem was that my rear driveshaft was too close to the centre muffler I have on my exhaust, and it actually began rubbing. I simply solved that by putting a spacer in off the nearest exhaust hanger.

AUtobarn, Repco, etc should all have the gasket glue and items that you need.

  • 8 months later...

Be prepared to break some of the bolts holding the turbo and dump together. Your car is fairly old (93) so I'm sure some of the bolts have been rusted up. If you break a bolt, you have to drill out the remnants of the bolt and then tap new bolts in. There are six bolts in total.

Pete's method.

Take to exhaust shop, say "This should take about 30 minutes. How much is your labour per hour, oh $65 bucks, Sounds good. I'll wait."

Job done in 30 minutes, and if they snap a bolt, they have everything there to fix it.

BASS OUT

Pete's method.

Take to exhaust shop, say "This should take about 30 minutes.  How much is your labour per hour, oh $65 bucks, Sounds good.  I'll wait."

Job done in 30 minutes, and if they snap a bolt, they have everything there to fix it.

BASS OUT

:werd:

Gasket goop is not really a great idea IMHO: your better off getting replacement gaskets. Do it right the first time. Besides, if you ever take it apart you'll be cursing yourself when you have to spend half and hour trying to clean hardened gasket goop crap off every joint.

Lucien.

Yes proper gaskets not gasket goo is the way to go :)

Yes gettin an exhaust shop to do it is also recommended for the reletively small outlay (do your knuckles a favour :) )

If you do decide to have a crack, and on your car it should'nt be to difficult, gewt under there now and spray a shit load of CRC on all bolts to be undone....it will make life a lot easier when you come to do it ;)

a hoist will make life easier. I did mine with the help of a friend with a hoist, and it took half a day (it should have been much simpler). The stock brackets that hold up the exhaust near the cat on a 32 were too small, and as the 3" has a larger ext. diameter (obviously) they wouldn't fit, and needed to be attacked with a grinder. the pain of trial and error until we got it right...

Also agree go out and get some real gaskets :)

always use new gaskets with gasket goo it's an added advantage thats what they do with space shuttles they cant be wrong

in saying that i do realise a car isn't a space shuttle i just like to use the techniques of the best mechanics in the world

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...