Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peeps

ive just done a few searches and i cant find the info im after, so i thought id ask.

im trying to hook up my air fuel gauge and i dont know which is the signal wire on the o2 sensor. the autometer instructions say i have to splice the wire after the clamp thing but is that nessecary? the wire that i spliced after the clamp adapter thing is a thick wire with copper colour wire in the middle, silver wire around it then the clear sort of heat shrink around it. is this the right wire?

if anyone can give me any hints id appreciate it heaps!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51253-air-feul-ratio-gauge/
Share on other sites

Hi i fitted one of those to my car but it got stolen with the rest of my gauges anyway the wire i had it joint to was the middle wire on the plug it was a brown wire if you peel back the black stuff that covers the wires it should be a bit thicker than the other two (not the wires on the sensor) hope that helps

yep sic thats the wire i am trying to use, but it has like 2 different colour wires on the inside, like silver and copper, so i just join it to both then hey?

also does the gauge actuall start to work right away or does the car have to heat up 1st, casue ive hooked it all up and the gauge didnt work???

thanks for the help jason

just one last question- i have plugged everything in, and when its just the + and - wire in, there is a green led lit on the last point closest to the end of the rich section. then when i plug in the o2 sensor wire the screen goes blank, even wen the car is on. do i have to be driving for the thing to work or have i done sumthin wrong?

ok i got it all hooked up now, but wats it supposed to look like, about 4 leds light up at a time going up and down the face wen u rev it and on idle sumtimes, it just hits rich. but at night wen i turn the lights on, it read a couple of leds short, is this supposed to happen?

let me know if u think it is functioninf wrong.......thanks for the help so far:)

i tihnk there should only be one led on at a time, considering its measuring a ratio, not a range of ratios, the led will move rapidly though

the gauge should work alll the time, driving idling, warming up etc.... i believe the oxy sensor doesn't work effectively till its warm and hence the ecu ignores the signal from it when u cold start, but once warm u should get semi accurate readings regardless of wheter u r drivign / idling / just starting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
×
×
  • Create New...