Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just recently, my R32 gtr every so often displays the ABS and the 4WD warning lights on the dash.. and when so, I know the ATTESSA system is definitely disabled and I"ve only got torque going to the rear wheels. Has anyone experienced this problem before or know how to rectify it?

I don't know why it has all of a sudden started to randomly do this, hot weather? ..I'm clutching at straws and have no idea. Perhaps a fuse is loose? But for both systems to go down suggests a computer problem. I am running a Microtech MTX-12 ECU.. and having only recently bought the car a few months ago I'm not aware if this is a piggy back sytem or outright ECU.

Help please!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51307-r32-gtr-abs-4wd-warning-lights/
Share on other sites

Possibly a fault with the ATTESA system, wether it be low fluid or something else. When the lights come on, pull over, dont turn the car off and pop the boot. Under the rear parcel tray is a silver box with a small led light in it which will be flashing. Wait till it stops for a few seconds then it will start flashing again. Count the number of long flashes and short flashes and it will give you a code (e.g 3 long flashes and 7 short flashes = 37 -- I think thats how it goes from memory, not 100% sure but it will flash you a code). Once you get the code I am pretty sure someone posted up here a list of the fault codes, if not download the R32 manual and it lists the codes in there. Check what code you were given against the list, then it will give you an indication of whats going wrong.

The most common problem is fluid in the attesa resevoir gets too low. In the boot on the right hand side theres a trimmed panel you can remove and the pumps behind this. When the car is running the fluid should be between the minimum and maximum lines on the bottle. If its low go to a Nissan dealer and pickup some Nissan "special power steering fluid" (also called Nissan Matic D), its about $13 from memory and top it up (or if youre super keen, flush the whole system and refill it all).

I had the exact same problem. I then after a while had my ABS really playing up. Brakes would momentarily (1 or 2 secs) go hard and have zero braking.

I took it too many places and no one could work out the problem. I finally found it after much trouble. Check on the outside of the rear diff that none of the dust covers (metal) which protect the speed sensor indicators (hope I have described this properly) have come loose. If they have they can momentarily block the speed sensor from getting the signal and both the ABS and 4wd system use these speed sensors and get totally confused.

Hope its as simple as this.

  • 3 years later...

hi, this is my first post so bear with me;

my GTR just did the same thing this weekend and the flash code indicated the 'g' sensor. however my owners manual is a poor scan of the original and i cant make heads nor tails of where it is located,

anyone know its whereabouts?

fanx

i had the same problems when i first picked up my gtr.... so i had the attessa fluids topped up and the hicas bleed, changed the battery and bobs your uncle... havent had any problems since.. and for ari666 ... the g sensor is exactly where djr81 stated.. just unscrew your centre console and take it off and you will find a goldish box (wif a white tab and a red led light in the middle of it) situated next to your hand break lever ... thats the g sensor.. if its gone screwy you might want to just simply change it...and if you do.. go to the wreckers to find 1 as there relatively cheap as its not a sort after item as there pretty expensive from nissan

Check the fuse in the little kicker panel next to the steering collum.

There is a diagram on the back of the pannel that will tell you which fuse is which.. Its a long shot.. I know.. but that fuse controls both..

Its worth a go..

  • 1 month later...

I have a similar problem or the same problem..

I got R32 GTR. I start it, and after a couple seconds the 4WD light comes on. (It doen't happen all the time. some times the car is normal) I thought it might be the camber of the raod giving the senser in the ATTESSA bottle a faulty reading, so I topped it up and I still have the same problem. Even starting the car on a flat serface it sometimes comes on.

If I start the car and immediately drive foward and back a couple of times just a few feet it SOMETIMES stas off and I'm all good. I'll check the speed sensor thing the other guy was talking about.

My guess is that its electrical and it really pissing me off.

Any one got any more I dears?

Cheers,

JUSTIN.

  • 6 years later...

I know this is a real old post but I really need help.

My ABS and 4WD lights come on occassionally, especially after a while of driving and in warm weather.

My ATTESA silvcer box shows 4 flashes, meaning the rear left wheel speed-sensor fault? I'm tihnking to try clean the speed sensor trick

This is a silly question, but can anyone please upload a photo showing where I can find the wheel speed sensor?

Can I do it using a wheel jack? Thanks guys

I have really tried searching for this hence I have found the fault codes and possible fixes such as cleaning the speed sensors, bleeding the HICAS fluid, check g sensor voltage etc.

But I really can't find a photo showing which is the wheel speed sensor...

A photo would help greatly pleeeeeease

Thanks for the help guys! I think I have found them but they are an ass to clean without a proper car hoist..

For those who may have been struggling like me, below are photos (they are not located a bit different to other cars and do not come up in the first 2 rows of google :P)

11169820_10152935117218985_3091519858594

11169790_10152935117213985_5875011762479

  • 2 years later...

Hey guys, I've got a 1990 R32 GTR and I have similar issues. My ABS and 4WD lights come on right away when turning the car on and they don't go away until the car is shut off. There are no Attessa ecu codes flashing. The fluid level is perfect with no air bubbles in the reservoir. The fuses are all fine. I'm pulling my hair out over it. Just looking for guidance at this point. Thanks in advance! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...