Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just wanna ask a few questions

ive been looking at buying a guard rolling machine for a couple months now because uite a few people have been asking where to get it done how much etc etc.

what would/have you guys paid to get your guards rolled????

if enough people around sydney want to get it done in the near future i might get one and do a donation type thing to the forums.

let me know wat you guys think

thanks

anf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/
Share on other sites

and if the paint cracked while you rolled the people's guards would you cover the costs incurred?

when I had my 180 I looked at getting my guards rolled, people wanted to charge me around $50 per wheel arch. In the end one of my mates rigged up a steel roller welded to an old hub which happened to have the same PCD as my 180. got a big ol heat gun and on the hottest summer day we could find we rolled my arches... ghetto style. End cost... $20.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1018132
Share on other sites

i dont think any place would cover the paint from cracking because its very difficult to save the paint 100%. paint is not very flexible heating it can save the paint to a cretain extent but it will never be 100%.

i just trying to gauge interest because i cant see the point of paying 200+ for guard rolling.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1018134
Share on other sites

I would certainly expect a guarantee of no damage to the car from a professional workshop. Mine were done by Tempe Tyres of all places, and it was around $200. Nothing cracked so I never needed to have that arguament....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1020337
Share on other sites

I would be absolutely ropeable if that happened. You go in and ask to get you guards rolled, not for you car to be butchered with paint falling off. If a business doesn't beleive they can guarantee the work then they can't do it.

Imagine if you wanted to fit another 1cm of rubber under the guards because it looks good on the rims you have. Does it look good if the guards are visably uneven, paint cracked and rust?

Anyway sorry for the hijack, its just I've seen some *terrible* jobs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1020535
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...