Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler Piping size / Configuration


Sil8ty
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just about to start on pipe work on my intercooler setup. :D

This has probably been discussed many of times b4..... But here goes....

I am possibly going to use 2.25" S/Steel pipe for the turbo discharge and run it across the front of the engine down to the cooler inlet on the drivers side.

With the return pipe up to the engine i am going to us 2.5" S/Steel up th the T/Body with a 3" expander up to where the factory pipe is now to the T/Body.

Question: Is this pipe adequate in size. I have seen people use larger tubing, but i have heard the larger you go the more lag you may possibly get.

Question: Do you guys think the configuration of the piping will be okay?? As i have seen it done the other way around.... Turbo to cooler on passanger side, Return to T/Body up on the drivers, along the front of the engine.

I hope this is clear enough..... ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I`ve just finished mine in 2 1/2 inch.It runs opposite to normal (turbo side x/over).I only done it in mild steel cause thats all i can weld but i will be getting a HPC when i get around to it.I havnt found it to have anymore lag as usual but i had the car dynoed at Tilbrooks Dyno Day and i got 204rwkw.The only mods i have are zorst,hi/flow cat,front pipe,pod,bleed valve(running 12PSI) and FMIC.I dont know what i had in KW before then but it seems to have more power now and with those figures i am quite happy.

Ring Gordon from AAA exhaust they can help you out with s/steel mandrel bends,expanding and welding if needed.My pipe work cost me about $70 all up(from turbz to throttle body).

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Sil8ty

I am possibly going to use 2.25" S/Steel pipe for the turbo discharge and run it across the front of the engine down to the cooler inlet on the drivers side.

With the return pipe up to the engine i am going to us 2.5" S/Steel up th the T/Body with a 3" expander up to where the factory pipe is now to the T/Body.:)

im going to configure the piping in this way as well. im not sure about the piping size but ive heard that to minimise the lag the piping should be the same size as the IC inlet and outlet. can any one conferm this?? :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

has any1 got any pics of pipeing,as i think this would help us ALOT,im actually 1/2 way through making my pipeing,and im doing the same as bugalugs, ive got a r31 but im sure u r32 guys would have the same prob with the battery,also the radiator hose that sits smack bang in the way? ive thinking of getting a new hose,but is there a bettter way?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enrico-Are u saying atleast 20kw-40kw more you think?I dont think a dyno would be reading that much difference.How much difference do ya reckon?

Whatsisname got 10kw more than his last dyno(RPM`s dyno after an hour of tuning the turbo glowing red hot).

There was another guy with the same mods(piping different to mine) aswell as a FCD which did a 199rwkw.

GTR 8OY-I have had my ECU out but it looks original with no stickers on it but saying that my A/FR was just about spot on,they reckon i wouldnt get much better with an aftermarket ecu.Come to think of it i still have the 180speed limiter and redlines where it should so i dont know.

I havnt got any pics of the piping.

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having had a good hard look @ Bug's dyno sheet I'd say his car/ECU is a freak!

The A/FR's were perfect (& I mean perfect!) through the entire rev range, peaking @ 12.3:1 top end. That's not normal territory for a stock RB25DET ECU :confused: On top of that the AFM didn't pull timing @ ALL!!!

2 things the standard R33 ECU does well - Run rich (very rich) & pull timing. Hence the low rwkw figures from untouched ECU'd cars (regardless of other mod's).

I too thought the dyno might have been a little optimistic? But when you look @ the other figure from cars on the day they all matched up pretty well (level of mods to rwkw) i.e. a stock R32 GTS-t - 106rwkw, & a blown/intercooled/LS1edited VX 255 CS - 304rwkw.

Lets ignore Bug's individual rwkw figure for a sec' & instead compare it to the other cars & their respective modifications (same dyno, same settings, same day).

204rwkw R33 - the usual bolt-ons & remarkable A/FR's!

245rwkw VU SS Ute - with the following:

4 into 1 Custom headers by Exhaust Technology

ET Custom Twin 2.5" exhaust, x-pipe

ST - PCM recalibration - LS1 Edit

M&V Full Rebuild A4, Stage 2 Shift Kit, Trans Cooler

3.46 diff gears

84 mm STARR throttle body

TB Bypass

Sidewindr Sik TB-MAF Pipe

SS CAI + modified cold air intake

kingdragon filter

& a special "race only" exhaust for the day.

Minus the "race only" & it's closer to 235rwkw- or about what summoner is getting out of his VU SS over in WA.

"it seemed the Tilbrroks dyno was readin high"

And your reasoning is?

I must admit I was the first to jump on the bandwagon when somebody claimed 200+rwkw with stock turbo/injectors/ECU etc... Just because that's all it's "suppose to make" doesn't mean it's 100% gospel in every single case. I've witnessed a fair few things that shouldn't ever be able to happen!

The real test will come when Bug's runs it down the strip. Then it's a simple case of weight + terminal speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...