Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is the thing... We have got hold of a wrecked R33 GTS-T and are building a race car. We are just deciding on what to put all the gear into. some possibilities are:-

AE86

sigma

RX7 series 1-3

bmw 80's 3 series

etc.

We need a car that will fit the engine and box but is easy to replace / fix in the case of an acco.

Any suggestions??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51544-got-rb25-need-shell/
Share on other sites

Yes but a 32 shell is expensive in the first place and replacement pannels are also expensive. Has any one seen an RB25 in any light cheap cars? Remembering that this will be a muck around car it will not have to be engeneered and therefore legalities are not really important.

Well the Nissan Z's (240 & 260) take the RB with no fuss at all. The engine goes in with only a mod to the mounting brackes (as far as I have know).

As far as parts, the cost isn't to bad (would need to be checked) depending on what you get. You can get fiberglass pannes (helps with the weight), and brand new pannes can be gotten from nissan (but are a bit expencive)

VL commodore! Cheap, can run it into walls repeatedly and fix it for $5, cheap, and did I mention cheap? Can hack into it without a worry in the world to fit the rear subframe/front brakes, and if you screw it buy another one for two fiddy.

most of those cars you listed i don't think it will fit(??), hence why its not done.. most would use an SR20 or CA18 in those sorts of conversions as they're smaller and lighter engines that can give similar power levels. So if you really want to do those cars i'd probably be ditching the rb25 idea.

seriously though r31.. $500 u can get a shell, its RWD.. taking everything out you can probably get it down to 1200kg (base model GX only weighed 1300kg or so). Panels and things probably cheaper and easier to come by than any of those you list.

U can adapt the front hubs to run r32/r33/GTR brakes/etc.. LSD's and minispools are available. Latter model gearboxes and engines fit with a few modifications..

do it...

I'd say the tiredest dogged out Silvia Q's you can get your hands on. most of the stuff should fit without too much worry and as you say, it don't need to be engineered :-) so some sledgehammer modification of transmission tunnel etc can be done for anything with clearance "issues". With luck you should even keep that sweet S13 handling.

Already got the R33 managed to pick it up for 3K. hi flow turbo, exaust, boost controller... the usual. it is a compleate car exceopt for sterio and steering wheel. just got some really bad damage to the B pillar, written off.

an early zed would be a great option but they are expensive.....plus you wouldnt have the heart to kill it once youd completed the conversion. what about an s12 gazelle? that would be different. Id love to see a conversion other than rotors and BP series engines in an old rwd mazda 323. thats power to weight. look through the trading post for cheap models such as those mentioned that will accomodate your motor. depends on how far you want to go with it. If you want fun find the smallest rwd car you can find and start cutting. gemini,corolla perhaps?

ke30 corolla, mazda1200, sigma is a great choice, bluebird would also be a great choice as its all nissan stuff and you can bolt in a good diff. if you could find a mitsu scorpion that would also be cool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I left the ceramic coating off this bit, hopefully it just comes off after a few drives.   The gap between the spokes is too tight for anything on a stick, its only marginally bigger than my finger. I have to use a brush to get in there and its a big reason why I thought I'd try the coating.   Absolutely will do. I have EBC Blue Stuff pads to put on the front which will make them a bit dirtier. I'm hoping a pressure wash will just get most off. The shine is different to most, its very thin but seems very well 'attached' so hopefully it lasts.   
    • Barrels don't need to be shiny clean. But they are certainly nicer when they are not polluted with years of brake dust, and worse the rotting corpses of the last 17 balance weight sticky pads scattered all around.
    • Yeah, type a special character like ^ or | to initiate the equivalent of the "at"ing for thread links. Although, it might not get any easier to manage. Imagine 30 or 40 threads that kinda match what you want, and the one you want is lost after a long list of useless ones. The magic keyword version I proposed would be a manual effort to set up each case. More of a directed effort from the greybeards to facilitate exposure of useful content. I'm not against the auto complete stuff being considered - maybe por que no los dos? (And where I said "triggered automatically" in my OP, I meant "triggered accidentally". Of course I want it to be automatic!!)
    • Ah yes, fair enough! I was purely thinking about cleaning the spokes and front of the wheel with the mitt. For the barrel the rag on a stick makes more sense. I've tried cleaning the barrels on mine and gave up in frustration. Between brakes being in the way or spokes being in the way and limited space to constantly move the car front and back it was just too annoying. The barrel being as shiny as the rest of the wheel sounds amazing though. At this point I'm not even sure if they have the same surface finish on mine. But I feel inspired now to find out.
×
×
  • Create New...