Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unless you were always buying from a specific auction (say "USS" in Osaka) I don't see how you can get someone to check the car out? I take it you're talking about some kind of "RAC" check?

I mean, thats what the auction grading system is there for. Hell, I could got and check the car out if it's in Kobe or Osaka, but I'd need to talk to the guy who bid for the car on your behalf, so if that was the case he could do the check for you...

have I got the wrong idea?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51583-japan-inspecters/#findComment-1020555
Share on other sites

nah u have the right idea. this guy is buying it from a saleguys who he deals with. but i want something that checks the engine and gearbox etc. just so i know it all runs well the guy isn't providing the depth of info i want before buying it. the info on the car is in another post "wat wud u pay" if u wanna check it out. i wud be looking for something like an RACV test just to make sure it runs properly. unbiased third party kinda thing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51583-japan-inspecters/#findComment-1020597
Share on other sites

I mean, thats what the auction grading system is there for

well after my effort of importing i dont have a huge amount of faith in the grading syystem... not sure which auction site eg uss etc but they said they had a black s2 97 40,000kms etc imacculate everything auction grade 4.5 only to have it inspected and it was rusted in one of the wheel arches... definatly get someone to look at it for you...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51583-japan-inspecters/#findComment-1020635
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...