Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was just going to go out to jaycar to get some wiring to fix the missing wires on the computer, when i had my windows down and noticed a strange loudish (might have just heard it with windows up) rattling type noise. It was like the typical lifter tick, but more of a rattle and louder (at 2k rpm i cant really hear lifters in daytime, whereas this i could definitely)

It starts at about 2000 rpm in 1st, and then goes away so its a lot softer as revs get higher. It wasnt easy to pinpoint where exactly it was, but seemed to be in the vicinty of the top of the engine.

I was only about 1min away from home so i drove back. Had this not been worse enough, ive got a friends wedding on saturday that i really need the car to get to :P

Any easy way to check/rule out certain things, like timing belt, water pump, oil pump, etc? Additionally, ive noticed that in the last month, lifter noise has gone from 1 exhaust lifter to maybe 2 intake lifters (as well as the exhaust one) - Perhaps need a engine flush + oil change?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51696-loud-noiserattle-from-engine-~2k-rpm/
Share on other sites

Could be the same thing thats wrong with mine. Gudgon pin loose in the piston. Since youve had the car do you know if its over heated at all. If so theres a chance that in dooing so the motor has draged the piston in the bore thus damaging it. Im about to go to a RB30 conversion and I just waiting for it to give up the ghost. Spoke to a very good mechanic and he basically confirmed this with mine

actually it has overheated once, after losing about a 1/3 of the coolant due to leaking radiator :mad:

the sound is rather minor, certainly not overly noticable, maybe just a tad louder than lifters (about 3 of em are noisy). it seems to only make noise at a given, narrow rpm band (like 2000-2100 rpm, and tends to move up slightly on the revs for each gear i think. normally need to be passing fences or something reflective to hear it most of the time

noticable on backoff, eg if going in 2nd at 3krpm then letting the clutch off ill hear it momentarily as it passes thru its "noise band".

how loud was yours?

Does the noise disappear when the engine heats up? Mine does similar for about the first one or two minutes in the morning, then it disappears. If I leave it sit for a few hours so it cools down again, the noise re-occurs. The severity and duration seems to vary with how cold the engine is.

u mean the lifter noise? i have lifter noise when cold (and still noticable when warm) but its different, and lifter noise is over whole rev range (eg idle too) whereas this is very narrow band.

i should give the car a good drive so i can better determine if it goes away when warm. got the oil/filter changed yesterday, with any luck that may have fixed it, but thats more of a hope then a possibility i think :P

No mine is in the same narrow rev range you're talking about. Not only 1st gear, but any gear as long as it's the same range. After about 2 minutes in the morning, once the engine warms up it disappears. I'm assuming it's because the engine warms up, but don't know for sure.

If I drive out of my estate at less than ~2000 revs (2nd gear) then it doesn't do it. I've had my oil filter changed a few times since I've had the car and it didn't help me. I'd really like to know what it is, because it doesn't sound healthy, and it's quite loud.

do you also have loud lifters? (ive got like 1 exhaust and 2 intake making noise) maybe resonance attributed to them? (although it sounded like it was coming generally from top middle of motor, rather than towards the sides a bit more with the lifters.) if u dont have noisy lifters at all then perhaps something else. has ur car overheated before?

Peter;

The noise you've described is exactally the same as mine when I first noticed it ! It gets louder over time unfortunatly. Loudest from about 2200rpm to about 3100 and then stays constant. Ive been nursing mine ready for the conversion cause I use my car as a dayly driver.

Unfortunatly, no the noise doesn't go away when the car warms up. My cars been that way for quite a few months and I've been nursing the car acordingly. If yours does then you might be in luck and its not a gudgen pin problem

thanks - will make me sleep a bit easier at least, but thats no consolation for you. unfortunately with a imperfect head (lifter noise), i couldnt bear anything happening to the bottom end (esp due to it being in a silvia, i cant do an rb30 conv without considerable trouble), so i hope its nothing to do with that.

i read elsewhere that the VVT/VCT on the s14's over makes a weird rattling type noise, any chance it could be a similar thing on the rb25?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their reliability is proven, performance can be predictable, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...