Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why is there 3 welds? when all it is - is a 180degree mandrel bend cut in half and swiveled with maybe a little trimmed off

And there will have to be lips on the ends to hold the silicon joiners there,

but that is just a prototype i guess :wassup:

a 180 degree mandrel bend shouldnt cost anymore than $50-55, + silicon joiners and hose clamps = $120 tops

not complaining or anything, just helping :P

  • Replies 309
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Knore.

The duct is actually harder than it looks to make.

In order to fit into the standard position, have the BOV and PCV returns and snake around to fit to the airbox, it needs to be quite complex.

There doesnt need to be any flaring on the duct as it is in suction, not pressure. The silicone and clamps will be fine.

Im at a computer in Noumea right now and the keyboard is all funny so Ill write more when I get back.

Im soooo sick of seeing Renaults, Peugots and the like

BASS OUT

why is there 3 welds? when all it is - is a 180degree mandrel bend cut in half and swiveled with maybe a little trimmed off

And there will have to be lips on the ends to hold the silicon joiners there,

but that is just a prototype i guess  :wassup:  

a 180 degree mandrel bend shouldnt cost anymore than $50-55, + silicon joiners and hose clamps = $120 tops

not complaining or anything, just helping :rolleyes:

Where is your product that is as good for $120 "tops"? didnt think so $200 is a bargian for this sort of thing. Especially when u just have to sit on your ass and wait for it to be finished and posted to you. Your comments where not positive and its not as if you could do better.

PS. Prototype looks sweet bass, but im sure you know that :D

Where is your product that is as good for $120 "tops"? didnt think so $200 is a bargian for this sort of thing. Especially when u just have to sit on your ass and wait for it to be finished and posted to you. Your comments where not positive and its not as if you could do better.  

PS. Prototype looks sweet bass, but im sure you know that :rant:

Excuse me?

I never said anything bad about it, i was simply questioning some things which is right to do so as a potential buyer :rant: :slap:

why is there 3 welds? when all it is - is a 180degree mandrel bend cut in half and swiveled with maybe a little trimmed off

And there will have to be lips on the ends to hold the silicon joiners there,

but that is just a prototype i guess  :wassup:  

a 180 degree mandrel bend shouldnt cost anymore than $50-55, + silicon joiners and hose clamps = $120 tops

not complaining or anything, just helping :rant:

OK, help me out here...... I always thought 180 degrees was a straight line, why do you have a "bend" in a straight line?:confused:

They call it that because it bends 180 degrees from the start back on itself...

or something like that, they also call it a half donut/U bend :wassup:

Dont ask me why they call it 180degree, i dont make it :D

Okay, I’m back.

I swear Noumea looks like a scene from Ali-G the movie. Lots of hotted up little hatch backs!!

So, Maybe sometime this week or Saturday I’m going to refit the prototype to my car and have a look at the finish. This will also give me a chance to make sure the BOV and PCV return bits are in the right position.

Money:

People have been asking about approximate prices for these beasties.

Well, at my last estimate, the pricey bits at the hoses and clamps.

I’ve been speaking a lot with Shift Performance and they have given me good prices on the Reducer (excellent price!) and the straights and the clamps.

BUT it still brings the total for extras to fit the duct to about $65-70

Therefore, about $150 – 200 for the duct plus $70 for the clamps, and the cost may be up to $270, but I don’t think it will be that high.

I will be back with a genuine bonafide price once I have my prototype fully complete.

I’m very keen to get the R34 versions off and running.

BASS OUT

Excuse me?  

I never said anything bad about it, i was simply questioning some things which is right to do so as a potential buyer  :( :slap:

haha bullshit man your name is on the list and therefore you should not be winging like a 2c bitch. It clearly states that price is not definite, and for you to think that you can produce, or have produced the sort of quality product that im sure you want for "$120 tops" is well about as stupid as you are :kick:

Its just the lack of respect really to bass, im sure hes not going to retire on the profit should there be any and he is helping out more people in one group buy id say, than anyone on SAU has before. Check the numbers knore, he is going to have his hands full organising this stuff for u all the while worrying about getting a top quality product. He really doesnt need to worry about your :bs!:

haha bullshit man your name is on the list and therefore you should not be winging like a 2c bitch. It clearly states that price is not definite, and for you to think that you can produce, or have produced the sort of quality product that im sure you want for "$120 tops" is well about as stupid as you are :kick:  

Its just the lack of respect really to bass, im sure hes not going to retire on the profit should there be any and he is helping out more people in one group buy id say, than anyone on SAU has before. Check the numbers knore, he is going to have his hands full organising this stuff for u all the while worrying about getting a top quality product. He really doesnt need to worry about your  :bs!:

lol relax buddy, there was never any hostility in the first place except created by you, just cos you got problems dont mean you start stupid arguments over the internet to raise your ego :Bang:

And what if i did create my own afm pipe? Goto my gallery and see half the custom things we've made, i sure as hell have more of an intention and drive to make my own things for my car than you do

Its common logic if no one questions quality and process then people are free to sell people whatever they want, theres nothing wrong with asking some questions and saying what i think.

Bass understood what i was saying and took it how it was intended, why cant you?

you dont know me, so dont pretend to know what i can or cant do :kick:

Unsure if its been covered bass, but are you doing one for people with just an open pod? this would be majority of people yes?

Knore.

What I'm replacing is the stock pipe. I have had a look at my inlet system with and without the pod filter (ie stock and pod) and the pipe ends in the same location. I bought the Apexi pod filter kit specified for my car, which locates the AFM in the same place as stock.

Therefore, replacing the standard duct with the new new, will work fine.

If peoples Pod bracket puts the AFM in a slightly different location, then a slight modification to the bracket may be required, or the flex in the silicone joint will also take up a degree of misalignment.

I hope this answers your question.

BASS OUT

Knore.

What I'm replacing is the stock pipe.  I have had a look at my inlet system with and without the pod filter (ie stock and pod) and the pipe ends in the same location.  I bought the Apexi pod filter kit specified for my car, which locates the AFM in the same place as stock.

Therefore, replacing the standard duct with the new new, will work fine.

If peoples Pod bracket puts the AFM in a slightly different location, then a slight modification to the bracket may be required, or the flex in the silicone joint will also take up a degree of misalignment.

I hope this answers your question.

BASS OUT

Yep that answers it perfectly ;)

Is it possible to order a diff size reducer on the turbo side? I plann on using it with a GT-RS, unsure what size i need though :confused: Will find out...

Shouldn't be too much of a problem. Myabe just a stock issue with Shift, but if they have it in stock, then no problem.

A bit of information, the snout on the Standard turbo, the outside diameter is 65mm or 2.5 inches (63.5mm) and I have used the 2.5 inch hose reducer for the standard ones.

;)

Hey Guys.

I was doing some searching around today and found some pics of the sort of pipe I am trying to emulate.

Some of you may have seen the prototype at the Vic BBQ on the weekend.

The Apexi Super Suction Kit includes all bits and pieces (as mine will) and looks a little bit nicer than mine probably will, but the pic attached shows the amount of bits and pieces that need to be included. They are quite complex.

Anyway, I didn't get a chance to refit the prototype on the weekend but I aim to do it sometime this week after work.

I was considering buying one of the Apexi ones for reference, but I would need to buy one for each the R23, R33 and R34 models and the cheapest price I saw was like $450 and they always include the filter which I dont need.

I can't quite justify adding the cost of the sample I would get to everyones price as it would add $30 to everyones price. Anyway, It's no fun copying somebody elses.

Anyway, just checking in, letting you know it's all still moving along, albeit slowly as it's the silly season.

BASS OUT

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • NoS, 2 of the big ones.
    • Oh, that's grim. Something bad has been happening there.
    • Put an endoscope down the hole and saw this. Not quite all around the bore but a good 60% at least. Chin to the chest and towards further disappointments I guess.
    • 2 does "sort of" applies, maybe......but looking at what parts would be needed for the swap to get engineered, registered, and insured, and basically that's everything under the car, the modifications the make it legal would be problematic and horrendously expensive, all for a street car that just cruises around and hits a few twisty roads on the weekends Also, from looking at the NSW rules and Regs, with all modifications that is required just to make the car safe and not twist itself to pieces, and then actually get registered for street use, may still be impossible nowadays As for 1, when you add in a fresh engine, fresh transmission, rear cradle and diff, tailshaft, suspension, brakes, cooling, and all the other fabrication required, your probably looking at up to $100k to do it right, all for a 20 year old MX5 that is over engineered and you would never be able to actually use the power it has on the street, much like your beastie, which I love, but you actually track that thing and can use all of its powers in anger, in a safe environment  Hell, the old Bogan Cruise Ship had more power than I could use on the street, and in hindsight, I went a bit silly on that thing, it didn't really need the 500hp it had for what I actually used the car for, it was fun, but basically unusable on the street if you value your licence  As for cams, yeah, I'll probably book it in for them to get installed and tuned soonish, like next month after MX5 Mania are back at work....... and yes, I've already sent a email to bin the turbo quote and quote instead to install cams and a new Fluidampr balancer that will suit the 2.5 better than the OEM 2.0 balancer that is swapped over for the 2.5 install, as the balancer needs to get pulled to time the cams it's a while your in there sort of thing I did think a bit about flex fuel for a laugh, but being na, and no where really around locally anymore to get E85, I've binned that idea, so no sweet sweet corn smells are set for the car I wish E85 was more of a standard fuel, it's better for the environment, better for tuning, plus that sweet sweet smell we all love As for fitting in the family, that's not needed, as everyone in the family already owns a car that can seat 5 humans comfortably enough, the MX5 is "my toy" As for buying a car that is already built, nah, I would rather pick and choose my parts, I enjoy the process, and in the big picture, the additional cost is well worth the enjoyment, and the occasional frustration, I get out of doing it, albeit with other people spinning the spanners, and me, just paying the invoice 🤣
    • Excuse me, but 2) does apply 1) Would also apply if you consider how much is spent in the alternatives. Also there's the option of 3), buy one pre-built that you can put your family in (it's me, it's my car)   That said, I went on a ~500km drive the other day. I didn't use anything more adventurous than 3rd/4th gear at about ~3000RPM and 50% throttle and I was going as fast as anyone has any sense doing on a public road, with enough grip to the point where I didn't want to go any faster. I was obviously under the limit of the current car etc etc. MX5 with 2.5 N/A to achieve the same speed would be more fun for any road scenario. Maybe consider cams. I wouldn't boost it. The use case is just not there and it won't actually make the car more enjoyable unless you really do plan on wringing gears from 1st to 3rd (at least) at 100% WOT on a public road to 150+kmh.
×
×
  • Create New...