Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 309
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Okay.

Saturday Afternoon and I've performed the nessecary removing and refitting of the engine bay.

Had to remove all the stock intercooler hoses from the turbo to the front of the car and from the front of the car to the throttle body inlet casting.

Removed the compressor outlet ally casting and all bits. Took me about an hour to pull it down, and 5 minutes to do the welding!

Once all rebuilt, all was well.

I now have the jig for the R34. It's going to be hard to make the pipes as the BOV and PVC return pipes going to the rubber duct. So I'm going to have to get a bit creative!

Anyhoo, I'll post pictures on Monday morning when I can be buggered!

BASS OUT

I would be keen as well, if you can get some pic up that would be sweet. just quickly why do the R34 seem to have more of a prob with the intake piping sucking closed than anyone else. I dont think I have incured it but never had it on the dyno, but for sure metal intake pipe would flow better than the standard and I am hoping to run around 1.4 bar so I am guessing that stuff like that will become more critical at that stage. plus it looks cool.

Cefiro.

There will be two silcone sections on the hose. One at the turbo, one at the AFM.

10mm of air gap between them should allow sufficient flex.

TurboX.

Sorry I couldn't make it on Saturday, it took me a lot longer to pull my car apart and put it back together again!!

I'll organise something this week.

Hey guys.

Here are some pics of the pull down of my induction system to get the damn rubber pipe out.

I had to remove Air Box, both intercooler pipes, turbo compressor outlet casting, BOV return pipe, PCV return pipe and of course the rubber duct.

Once that was all out the way, I attached the pieces of steel pipe to the AFM and Turbo snout. Welded the bar in between and that's it.

Took me about 1 and a half haours to pull it apart because all the hoses and pipes had never been removed and were pretty damn tight, ten minutes to do the welding and then an hour to put it all back together. And not one single bolt was left over!!

Here are some pics.

Pic 1. shows how much was pulled down

Pic 2. shows the duct in position without the intercooler pipes

Pic 3. shows the Duct itself

Pic 4. shows the simple jig I made.

I hope this is of interest for you all.

BASS OUT

TurboX.

Sorry I couldn't make it on Saturday, it took me a lot longer to pull my car apart and put it back together again!!

I'll organise something this week.

No worries, I have it at work in the city so drop in any time to pick it up between 9:30- 5:30.

Talking to my son who works every day testing turbo's and turbines he says that its important that the entry to the turbo is as straight as posible for as long as possible. Although on this pipe there is not much length and it needs to bend sharply its probably better to relocate the bov and vac inlets back from the turbo entry as far as possible while still retaining compatibility.

A big advantage of this mod is the smooth walls and air flow that will result from it into the turbo. The Std rubber unit with the folds etc. is bad for flow.

TurboX.

I would like to completly redesign the BOV and PCV entry points, but as you can see in the picture of the duct that I removed, it's quite complex.

As it is already, we will have to cut a section of the steel pipes from the PCV and BOV to make room for some Silicone hose to connect them.

Currently, the hose fits into a moulded part of the rubb duct. We are going to change it from a Male/Female connection, to a Male/Male connection using silicone hose.

Going to be interesting.

The only other option it to completly butcher the steel pipes from the PCV and BOV and run them into a smooth T configuration and that T into the Ally duct on an angle pointing towards the Turbo. Difficult.

I'm going to have make the Ally parts as close to stock as possible.

But for those who ant to get fancy, I can make the ally parts without the BOV and PVC bits fitted and you can do what you desire with them.

BASS OUT

just quickly why do the R34 seem to have more of a prob with the intake piping sucking closed than anyone else.
The problem is not unique to the 34, most people don't even know about it because of the amount of boost you need to run before the problem presents itself.

I have heard older Skylines and Silvias have had this happen and even other non-Nissans, some backyard fix is to put wire like a coat hanger inside to prevent sucking in or collapsing under high boost NO THANKS! The problem is also accelerated by hotter under bonnet temps - perhaps due to copious drag runs or track racing. It's rubber, it flexes when it heats up!

I want to modify my pipe for better flow and to prevent it from happening at all - I don't think in the 2 years I have owned my car it has actually happened, although after 17 runs at Heathcote last year something may have...I couldn't actually say 100% that it was the pipe sucking in but it was a highly likely probability...

TurboX.

I would like to completly redesign the BOV and PCV entry points, but as you can see in the picture of the duct that I removed, it's quite complex.

BASS OUT

Yes I agree, thats why I am happy for you do do all the hard work and I will just buy the finished product :)

I have already spent enough on custom alloy work like my Intake, etc.RB20Intake4_small.jpg:(http://www.turboclub.com/turbocars/nissan/.../GTS4/index.htm

Hey bass junky here is a pic of mine, should be the same as the R32 although no BOV pipe. I was just going to plug that one off and prob eventually get an oil catch can instead of recirculating it through j pipe, as I found a bit of oil residue in the intake pipe. lucky I took it off and had a perve as I found a restrictor in there as well. Doeas it look the same as the R32 (size etc)

here are some pics

Hey ceffy.

It's totally different.

Different ribs, looks to be a different shape and there is only one return pipe plumbed into.

I think this buy is going to be quite difficult.

well that means its a no no for me then unfortunatly, maybe I will buy a welder and some aluminium/ steel pipes and make my own at a cost of only about $1000 well worth it ha ha. The restrictor I dont know cant be doing any good in there spose I should rip it out. I think its only on cefiros and laurels rb20 to restrict power dont know why though.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...