Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Me and a mate do all out own body and paint work and ive noticed alot of people lookinh for cheap resprays etc so we have decided to help a few people out

basic change of colour without doing door jams etc with little body work or full colour changes.. Its up to you

prices start at $1000 here is an example.. If you want to change the colour on the outside of your car but not worried about the door jams etc and the car has a fairly good body, your looking at around $1200 thats spray painted in a good booth using all 2 pak paint and equipments

You can email or call on 0405664451 or [email protected]

Ive posted a few pics of some previous cars, The swift is cobalt blue with corse glitter faded from the bottom, we are in sydneys west NSW

We can also do damaged vehicle repairs (small jobs onlyt No body pulling etc), mechanical , stereo and ALARM installations

Alarm with immobilizer fitted and hooked to central locking (if your car has it) $340 electronic boot release connected to your key pad $45

if the car is fully prepped so you are happy with it and all we have to do is tow it to the booth and then tow it home ur looking at about $1000 for standard paint or metalic or similur.. (no candy or camelian etc)

Closed.

CAL4SX: If you wish to continue advertising your business here on SAU you will be required to make a donation to the forum.

Please pm Prank to arrange

Admin

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...