Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok,

The club is up and running, the sun is out and shinning, so it's time to go on another big cruise. (About time!) :wassup:

The cruise will be on Saturday October 16, and we'll be heading up to Warburton. We still have to map the cruise out so once that has been done I will update this post with the final details.

But you can be sure in the tradition of our previous cruises we'll find you some fantastic roads to have some fun on.

Cruise Details

Meeting Place and Time.

Western End of the Upper Ferntree Gully Train Station Car Park.

Burwood Hwy.

Melways Reference: Map 74 F6.

10:30am with an expected departure time of 11:00am.

This cruise is fairly long - extremely twisty in places - and the road has some sections that are VERY narrow. Consequently we will be running it at a controlled safe speed. But this is probably one of the best scenery cruises we will do through Australia's tallest forest so we'll be asking everyone to back off, relax and enjoy the drive.

Please make sure that you have a FULL tank of fuel when you start. There is both Optimax and Ultimate available less that 500m from our starting point. The next available 98RON fuel will be an optimax that is about 180kms from the start of the cruise - and that is through very twisty conditions. Total distance of the cruise (back to Ferntree Gully) is about 250kms. Depending on how long we stop for lunch I expect to be back well before 5pm.

Members

All the members that come along - be sure to bring along your membership cards as we have the club stickers to hand out. They look fantastic.

If there are guys out there that haven't joined the club and wish too - we will have membership forms available on the day. Most of the cruises for next year will be for members only.

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51780-offical-cruise-161004-warburton/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Of coarse there will be - we will be stopping for lunch at Marysville. We "may" have a nice property to use as a lunch stop - otherwise we'll be sitting down at the river in Warburton. If you've never been there before its a really awesome little town.

My wife loves it there! :(

No abcent - this cruise will be open to everyone. Members only cruises will start in the new year. This will be a chance for those guys sitting on the fence on whether they want to sign up or not to come and check the club out. So if they like it they can sign up at the cruise.

:D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...