Where to buy the connectors that go into ecu harness?

[NewKleer]

My ecu is missing about 12 wires from it, and the ecu harness doesnt have the pins in it, even if i was to get all the wires over to the ecu. Where would i buy the little connectors to solder to the wires then insert into the harness, so it makes contact with the ecu pins?

gonna try ring hills motorsport and see if they have any idea, i keep getting passed around to different places who all have no idea...

[browny]

Good question.

You will be lucky to find anything easily. Best bet is to find an auto electrician or someone seriously into auto wiring (maybe an ECU installer?) who really wants to help and will spend the time tracking down the manufacturer of the connectors. Even if you do manage to find someone who can supply the terminals you will probably find they are sold in lots of 100, or 1000....

The terminals are also crimped, and they will most likely require a specific tool to suit the exact dimensions of the terminal. I've seen specialised crimping tools for this sort of thing in the range of $500-1000. You might be able to get an acceptable but not perfect result by using a cheaper $50-100 tool if you are very lucky.

Don't solder terminals. Most terminals actually crimp in two places (the wire plus the insulation). The crimp onto the insulation means the actual wire doesnt support any mechanical load so the wiring can flex a lot without breaking. You can't get this with a soldered joint and they break very easily.

So the way I see it you have two real options:

1. Buy a new wiring loom that isnt missing anything (what are you missing BTW?)

2. Get part of a wiring loom (maybe a damaged one) and remove some terminals with 100mm+ of wiring still attached. Then you can connect this to whatever wire you are running to the ECU. Its is reasonaly easy to add mechanical strength to a join like this by using heatshrink, electrical tape etc and bundling the wiring up.

[NewKleer]

i think 2 would be the best option, seeing im sure if i got the whole wiring loom it would just mean a lot more work doing whatever modifications are needed to interface with the silvia to start with?

yer ur right about the soldering - id just use the terminal/wire and then solder wires upstream more

im missing the 6 consult wires, plus these:

17 - Injection pulse (Ti monitor) signal

19 - Power steering oil pressure SW signal

25 - Boost control solenoid sig

33 - Exhaust temp warning lamp

44 - Neutral SW

53 - Vehicle speed sensor

56 - Throttle opening output signal

57 - Exhaust temperature sensor signal

104 - Fuel pump terminal power control output signal

about getting them out, if worse comes to worse i just cut the plastic harness thing to get the terminals - seeing ive already got the harness (and i might be getting a diff one to r33 anyway), and just need connectors

[browny]

I'm not completely sure you will need all of these...these are my guesses based on RB20 wiring...

consult wires

used for diagnostics, shouldnt affect how the engine runs

17 - Injection pulse (Ti monitor) signal

Not familiar with this signal

19 - Power steering oil pressure SW signal

Not sure exactly how the ecu uses this. Probably an idle adjustment.

25 - Boost control solenoid sig

Not familiar with this one.

33 - Exhaust temp warning lamp

AFAIK only a lamp. Should just be a mirror of the lamp on the back of the ecu.

44 - Neutral SW

I think this can affect idle.

53 - Vehicle speed sensor

Many people report no problems if this is disconnected to remove the speed cut. It is possible tho that this can affect idle.

56 - Throttle opening output signal

TPS signal. Pretty sure this is an important one. Used for mixture adjustment.

57 - Exhaust temperature sensor signal

I think the RB25's go into limp mode if there is no signal but not actually used an engine control signal.

104 - Fuel pump terminal power control output signal

you only need this if the std hi/lo speed operation of the fuel pump is retained. If you are using an aftermarket pump and its wired corectly theres no need for this one.

It's pretty easy to remove terminals from any connector as soon as you figure out how they are locked in. Most factory terminals are locked in with a tab of some sort. A lot of the Nissan stuff uses two tabs so if the terminal doesnt come out really easy you are probably missing something.

[NewKleer]

i managed to pick up a harness from an auto elec that was working on my brothers car last night, pretty lucky coincidence he came around

i cut the harness to start with to work out how to get them out, then it was just a matter of using a pin. about a quarter didnt come out, but i already had more than enough by then. ive removed and wired up the consult port to some of the wires ready to insert.

my main problem at this stage is fuel consumption, its pretty bad. i think its been permanently in "default" or limp home mode, if theres a mode that just doesnt use the o2 sensor (replaced it and nothing improved) but still allows free reving and seems to drive fine. want to do whatever i can to get it out of that mode and back into semi-"normal" mode whilst i have time to get other stuff fixed.

56 - this is the output signal, dont think its TPS, thats number 48. no idea if its meant for anything, perhaps auto c/u?

ill try hooking a led up to the 33 - exhaust temp led, as i dont know that i actually have a led on the back of ecu, either that or it never got into diag mode or anything that would use it, despite my attempts.

44 - neutral switch, would this be a manual thing or just auto?

[browny]

ok looking at the RB25 diagram from Meggalas web site:

17 = still a mystery

19 = as before

25 = as before

33 = lamp only. one side goes to +12V and earthed through the ecu to switch it on.

44 = No indication this is specific to auto or manual. Both have neutral so might be used for both.

53 = as before

56 = something for the auto trans

57 = as before

104 = as before

The one I would try fixing first is 57. I've heard people say that no signal triggers one of the limp modes.

I'm not familiar with the RB25 ecu but the R32 ecu's have a led on the back that flashes out the error codes from the diagnostic mode. This output is the same as that from pin 32 which might be connected to a dash lamp depending on how thorough the wiring job was.

[NewKleer]

yeh my ecu definitely doesnt have an led on the back. the sdu faq says that this is the case (1 led, 2 leds, or no leds) just doesnt really explain how u do the diagnostic stuff without it.

i tried hooking up a multimeter to measure voltage on 33 wrt the ecu earth (60) but no voltage was ever measured (ie the lamp would have never turned on).

hopefully consult at nissan tomorrow can work this time, now that ive hooked up the consult lines. also put in all the needed wires into the harness - just a matter of finding out where to get the wires to connect to those now

[MonstaS4]

I'm pretty sure http://www.justenginemanagement.com/ would have them. You may have trouble contacting him though as i believe he is on holidays for a month.

[darkhalf]

I've had the same problems with the wiring for my bench ecu setup

I've got an R32 and R33 ECU that I've soldered the consult wires directly to. Last week got an ECU harness connector from and found out that there are a lot of pin/wires missing (consult etc) which I needed

Have a look at this - this is my wiring pinout from the R32 service manual. the R33 is the same but there are some extra wires (i will update this diagram soon)

http://darkhalf.r31skylineclub.com/article...B20-pinout2.jpg

as for the connectors, since you found a spare one i just used a small screw driver to lift the plastic clip holding the pin connector in and pulled on the wire. for my setup i used some wires which were doubled (CAS wires, ground wires)

the consult wires you use need to go to a consult plug or you can use a PLMS developments consult interface board and supporting software

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com

[NewKleer]

car came up with no faults on consult at nissan today, which is weird given the wires missing...although the good bit was that consult seemed to work ok (meaning i didnt botch anything in hooking it up

thanks for the site, i actually hooked up 2 lots of wires to the consult lines, one to normal connector, and one which is spare atm, and im going to look into making a pc-consult interface myself (dont have the money to buy a premade one atm)

as my leds dont seem to work, i may as well get soemthing i can directly talk to the ecu with to help with any problems in future.