Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im new to these forums, as i'm currently interested in gettin an R32 4 door GTS-t through the 15 year old import scheme. I have been looking around for a while now, and Yahoo Motorsport here in adelaide seems to have some pretty cheap cars. My question is has anyone from here imported through him, or bought a car from him? I have spoken quickly to him on the phone and he seemed a little short of time for a prospective customer, but i can't ignore the prices of the cars he imports. For example i was hoping to get a 4 door GTS-t with around 100,000k's for about $8-9k complied. Now most importers are charging that before compliance, whereas Yahoo are anywhere from 5-7k uncomplied (plus 1k for compliance). What are peoples opinions?

Thanks

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51880-r32-from-yahoo-motorsport/
Share on other sites

Im not flaming the guy, or saying anything against him.

Do check however....Rust on the cars. Look EVERYWHERE. Ask him where he sources his cars from in Japan, (location), and do some research...

Cheaper cars arn't always cheap for a reason. Go see him in person, people are more helpful when you speak to them face to face.

He is known in the import scene...im sure there is info on here (SAU) and NissanSilvia.com

Do some RESEARCH....it always helps.

Thanks for the info Bl4cK32. You say about which area of japan the car comes from which makes good sense, but what are some of the areas that cars are prone for rust from in Japan? if you could give me some names would be good. I presume its costal areas that are the biggest problem, but then again, every australian city is on the coast, so one would presume cars here are a problem?!?

Just one other question i have, is about the difference in performance from the auto to the manual. The cars have 160kw, and only 260Nm of torque. I currently have an EF Falcon which has same kw, but torque is 100Nm higher. I know the skylines are a lighter car, but surely the lack of torque would have to make a difference?!?

With basic mods such as new cold air feed to factory air box, 3" cat back exhaust, what sort of rwkw would i be looking at?

Thanks for the answers to all my questions

Lee

Ask him which area, then find out about that place. Or just check the car over completely.

As for the lack of torque...the rb20 is a 2Lt motor compared to the EF (4.1Lt?)....off boos performance sucks after driving the rb20 around....do a test drive and make sure you can live with the power spread...if your going to use the 4 door as a people mover, make sure your happy with it...mine pulled well with 4 people in the car with the rb20...off boost sucked a little...my 2c

I reckon there was a thread on here last week about a guy actually looking at that car, from Yahoo. He had paid a deposit and everything, and took it for a drive and it was making all sorts of weird noises, so he told him that he wants his deposit back, so he was refunded his deposit minus $100 or something

as Bl4cK32 says, get it checked, even go as far a to take it to a workshop and pay for them to check it just to be sure

Cheap cars are always cheap for a reason

hrmmm, well after reading that story, i might just be looking locally, rather than importing. seems a little dodgy to me the whole importing thing. Can't say i would like to buy a car having never driven it. Even if its cheaper, still doesnt seem worth the worry and hassle

hes not dodgy AT ALL....i went out there and was talking to him for about anhour...he basically said he doent no what condition the car is in till it gets to aus and that its up to the buyer to check the car over completely before they buy it so they no what there getting and they dont come back later and accuse him of selling you a lemon.....whenever you buy a second hand car its up to YOU to check it over b4 you buy it.....and if you dont like it you get all your deposit back minus $100...whats shonk about that???

  • 2 weeks later...

i bought a 31 off him ages ago, the cars are very cheap.. You can't think about a car for too long or it will sell.. If your interested in a car then get it! If the guy that beat me to that black supra twin turbo aero is reading this... DAMN YOU!

most good import agents can organise a mechanic's report BEFORE you buy the car. especially yahoo cars as you can just contact the seller and literally go "oi, ohio gozaimasu, I wanna check out the car before giving you any money beyatch". Then you ring up one of your mechanics that you have working for you in that perfecture and tell him to check it out. If you're quick you can even do this before the auction ends. The mechanic report might cost ya a hundred bucks, but its well invested money.

he basically said he doent no what condition the car is in till it gets to aus and that its up to the buyer to check the car over completely before they buy it so they no what there getting and they dont come back later and accuse him of selling you a lemon
That's a sad excuse really, and if he got off his arse n did some actual work instead of tellin his potential customers to sign up to prestige and j-spec mailing lists and contact him whenever they see something interesting (which I've heard him say to my mate while he was on the phone). Come on dude, its 2004, its not that hard to hire a mechanic to check out a car on the other side of the world. We don't work on a pigeon courier system still.

Age old problem, how do I buy a 10K car for 7K?

Pay a good price for a good car, and you will be happy. How many people do you know that would sell a 10K car for 7K? mates, mates, mates, mate always knows someone, but in real life it just doesnt happen too often at all.

Good luck with the search.

I THINK places like morpowa etc do full mechcanical and body checks.

I got one done through RAA, cost me $165, and took him over 4 hrs to do.

But better off doin it at places that actually know turbo cars!

Spend the cash to get a check, saves u a hell of a lot of money in the long run!

A friend of mine got a car from yahoo motorsport.. didn't have any problems, however, this guy was pretty much a qualified mechanic and also gave the car a full respray upon arrival. If your really good with cars and mechanics then importing is for you.

I dont think he is dodgy, i think if you dont know anything about fixing cars then, john verban and importing might not be for you.. buy a fully complied one here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...