Jump to content
SAU Community

Japan residents post up pics of your 'line! ... or sundry vehicle ;)


Recommended Posts

running a single car isn't that expensive. The biggest outlay is probably Shaken, every two years. Insurance isn't too bad, fuel is cheap but car taxes (payable in May) can be quite steep, depending on the size, weight and capacity of the car.

Running three white plate cars on the other hand...

let's just say, I'm not looking forward to next May :mad:

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what dave said,  

but he forgot to mention petrol ain't cheap in a turbo car :)

hehehe...one of the few plus points to having an N/A car :mad: I don't keep track but I get somewhere in the region of 400KM per tank...Given that I rarely use the Skyline, I can go 2 months between fill ups! In fact, I don't recall the last time I filled up the Skyline - was some time around Obon I think :)

yeah filling up a gt-r off base, hai oku, well i usually waste about 5,000 yen for a bit over half tank going through eneos.

yes i agree shakens are really expensive, they can sometimes find the most unusual thing that is wrong with ur car (at least they do for us), road tax are a killer too, we do have to pay for it but i think its about half of what the normal people pay for, ie shaken (i dunno if it is the same) its around 47,000 yen for two years, road tax for 300 plates 19,990 for a year, which i have to pay for 2 cars so thats about 40,000 (just a round number). it does get pricey just depending what you want to do. mind that u still have to buy parts.

R-34 GT-R's, STDs cost around (the cheapest i have seen) 3,200,000 yen and the price goes up as it goes to v spec, v spec II and the highest i have seen for a nur spec was about 8,000,000 yen. not sure about evo's the only evo that i have seen is an evo VIII mr around here. dunno how much though, hehe.

hey btw, have u guys ever heard that nismo are trying to buy the v spec II offa people with low mileage? i heard that theyre making like a Z spec or some letter spec, and theyre not gonna sell the parts unless u get it tuned or buy the car like that? anybody heard anything like that?

Yukio you got it easy, I pay double that for 300 plates...39,000yen...and I don't drive a GT-R.

I think next bracket up for 300 plates is 2.0-2.5L or maybe 2.0-3.0L which is 46,000yen.

Dave, try 250km city for me, highway is better..off boost dead on 500km.

Hey Dave , what kind of Camera + lense package do you use ?

your shots are so vivid, no way you could be using cheap camera unless aussie technology is really that far behind !?

here are mine :mad:

daves_GTV_0.jpg

DSC02111.jpg

The pics I'd been waiting for!!! That looks awesome Dave... I was actually going to get Work Emotions too (like I said at TAS in January) but opted for the Desmond Regamasters... they were just too cheap :)

One sweet looking GTV :)

But the winner is: DCD! Goddam it, your 34 looks incredible... luv the Volk bronze against the Bayside blue!

Troy and I went for a cruise out to Itami airport on Sunday:

evo_line.jpg

Damn those Lancers are huge up against Skylines! :mad:

DCD's car is absolutely awesome, even more so with the new 19's...a great car and tastefully modded...subtle, but at the same time outstanding.

I managed to get the Works for around 57,000 yen from Up Garage, including 4 decent tyres. Can't complain...would have like something a little wider on the back (17x8.0) all round, but the handling is great and price was too good to say no!

Streeter don't worry mate, any and all forms of transport are welcome :)

(as Justin said as long as it has a Jap plate :))

Lukas thanks for the kind comments :)

Polski - thanks. I'm by no means good at photography, but I'm getting better. For great action shots of cars in motion, then DCD is tough to beat :)

glad you like the car. To be honest I was a bit unsure of how they would look as its hard to guess taking in to account suspension ride hight and so on. But I'm very happy! Now if only I could get the damn center caps to fit on the front wheels!!

Dave...your car is looking sweet with those Works! I hope I can get to see it up close. We really should organize a meet soon...maybe get the boys from Kansai up here too!:)

Speaking of centre caps - my work wheels didn't come with them either, any ideas on where I can source a set?

Re: Meet - yeah, that'd be good, great even, if we could organize one big meet with everyone in attendance. The Foreign Residents In Japan Automotive Enthusiasts Club....or something like that :)

The big problem (as always) is everyone has different work/family committments, but I'm sure if we set a date far enough ahead we can all sort something out. Would be one hell of a convoy - can you just imagine the look on the locals faces when a massive line of sports cars, all driven by gaijins, cruises past :)

Damn those Lancers are huge up against Skylines! :)

Justin, It's the angle of the photo it's really about the same, your car is longer...mine is higher. The BNR32 is not much larger either...

Length: BNR32: 4545mm, HCR32: 4530mm, CP9A: 4350mm (Skyline longer)

Width: BNR32: 1755mm, HCR32: 1695mm, CP9A: 1770mm (E5 wider)

Height: BNR32: 1340mm, HCR32: 1325mm, CP9A: 1415mm (E5 higher)

Front track: BNR32: 1480mm, HCR32: 1460mm, CP9A: 1510mm (E5 slightly wider)

Rear track: BNR32: 1480mm, HCR32: 1460mm, CP9A: 1495mm (E5 slightly wider)

Wheelbase: BNR32/HCR32: 2615mm, CP9A: 2510mm (Skyline longer)

Same with the BNR34 and E7/8, they are actually very close in size even though the GT-R looks like it is so much larger.

Length: BNR34: 4600mm, CT9A: 4490mm (GT-R longer)

Width: BNR34: 1785mm, CT9A: 1770mm (GT-R slightly wider)

Height: BNR34: 1360mm, CT9A: 1450mm (E7/8 higher)

Front track: BNR34: 1480mm, CT9A: 1515mm (E7/8 slightly wider)

Rear track: BNR34: 1490mm, CT9A: 1515mm (E7/8 slightly wider)

Wheelbase: BNR34: 2665mm, CT9A: 2625mm (GT-R slightly longer)

it's pretty much even throughout the model range except perhaps for the whale...I mean BCNR33 :)

Post up also some of the metal birds taking off :)

edit: Boys...October 8,9,10,11 is a long weekend...East meets West! Let's organise one.

Ok here is a pic of the fugly sil a little while back... looks a little different now.

streetersil.jpg

In the next few weeks should have BN sports aero, 5 stud conversion, and some 17 x 9 rims fitted.

Oct 8,9,10,11 is no good for me. I will be in Australia judging a drift comp.

Speaking of centre caps - my work wheels didn't come with them either, any ideas on where I can source a set?

Re: Meet - yeah, that'd be good, great even, if we could organize one big meet with everyone in attendance. The Foreign Residents In Japan Automotive Enthusiasts Club....or something like that :)  

The big problem (as always) is everyone has different work/family committments, but I'm sure if we set a date far enough ahead we can all sort something out. Would be one hell of a convoy - can you just imagine the look on the locals faces when a massive line of sports cars, all driven by gaijins, cruises past :)

No idea Dave. Doesn't Works make any center caps? You should try asking at your lokas Works dealer if they can source a set. My problem is that I can't get the flat type caps (like I have in the rear) to fit in the front as the driveshft end pops out too far and touches the caps. Funny thing is Rays keeps insisting they should fit!!??

Regarding the meet. I know what you mean. I usually never know when I'll be busy. I have just worked 2 weekends in a row now and I only found out a few days before I had to cover the events! But we should try and pick a date nonetheless....hopefully the weather will stay warm for a bit still!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...