Jump to content
SAU Community

Japan residents post up pics of your 'line! ... or sundry vehicle ;)


Recommended Posts

That RX7... makes me want to sell my GT-R. The only reason why I never have had one is the research I've done about it's reliability.

So many people have told me that it would not be the best daily driver. Bad build quality and an engine that's not exactly bulletproof. I don;t think it's going to stop me from owning one one day though! The shape is just too sexy.

Shaped like the female body for sure!

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It was a little of 1 million yen - which is about what you have to pay to get and older one in the right condition and lowish kms (mine recently ticked over 50k).

The whole FD vs GTR thing has been done on here (in the gerneral section) before - and well argued, iirc.

I'll give a couple of quick/short answers though:

1. Build quality: IMO, not true - at least in relative terms. Compared to what? My 93 FD compares pretty damn well with similarly aged GTRs that I've inspected. However - I love nissan build quality, and would happily conceed that they do it better (my r33 was signifcantly better than my old TE magna - and that was, in turn, better than any ford or holden I ever had to drive).

A s8 will not disappoint in that department.

2. Engine: If kept stock and regularly/properly maintained (like any sportscar should) - will lead a happy life. Modified is another thing altogether.

Issues for the 13brew (and sequential twins) have arisen because of the following:

* bad modification - has to be thoughtfully modified. Not a 'whack on an exhaust and a ebc' car. A little research would definitely pay dividends - unfortunately, it seems that the average owner these days is aged 16-23, so the same issues are perpetuated.

* bad mechanics - I wonder if mazda mechanics ever had any formal training on the FD? Increasingly, it seems: no. And without a dealer support network - the FD was doomed to fail in export markets. The solution to everything, from vacuum leak to oil leak, seems to be: 1. replace engine, or 2. replace turbos. Crazy.

Aftermarket is no better - 99% of mechanics (and I'm referring to rotary specialists) are petrified of the sequential system (a bit of a half pun hidden in there)

* some design issues: plastic air sep tank, crappy radiator, way too much hose - all are fixable, but if you don't do the research, it'll only end in tears.

bottom line: well, they say FD ownership is a weird combination of pure joy and paranoid schizophrenia - and I have to agree! But the potential is undoubted - 1250kg and 255-300hp stock. Mid-low 13s stock (a touch higher in the oz-spec models, but very easily remedied). A proven 10sec 400m on stock engine/turbo, 11s with basic mods - definite weapon, and looks good too :P

Got to agree there...lovely motors, and if maintained/modded properly there's no reason they shouldn't last a long time. I was sooooo tempted to get one a few years back, but kids and a 2 seater sports car just don't go...:P

nice one dave - first time I've seen an accord wagon that didn't have chrome wheels and some sort of neon attachment  :D

I just wandered outside and took a couple of pics of the FD, to make up for the crap one I posted earlier:

3857rx4.jpg  

3857rx3.jpg

very very nice FD. I am a rotary lover, i am building a 500hp fc3s. I love the skylines just cant afford it so ill stick with the next best thing. Rx-7

Jeremy

Just wondering does EVO 1,2 or 3 still existed in Japan or they are all in the junk yard or some wreckers?
Yes, all the above exist in Japan... can be had for very reasonable prices too.

yes but not many and they are going back a bit now so they won't be in exactly the greatest of conditions...

I noticed your in the states why not buy US Version Evo. I doubt it will be easy to get the earlier Evo to comply to your crash test. Even for Aust 1-5 cannot be complied AFAIK.

yes but not many and they are going back a bit now so they won't be in exactly the greatest of conditions...

I noticed your in the states why not buy US Version Evo. I doubt it will be easy to get the earlier Evo to comply to your crash test.  Even for Aust 1-5 cannot be complied AFAIK.

I'm not in the state ( i chose not to ) as all my friends and family are in Aust. IT's a beautyfull EVO you've got there, i'm currently looking at a dead stock EVO1 for $19k Aus dollars. A bit too much but they are now rare to find, after crashed my 33 i'm still in the scare, shock stage therefore i rather drive an AWD car and i don't want a rex so EVO seem to be the only and best choice.

I heard their drivetrain is not so strong, clutch is hard to replace.....well but i'm getting one anyway, my aim is to run 12 so what's the best bolt on turbo? Is the internal capable of running 12 without upgrade to forgies and stuffs?

West, no offence dude, but AWD isn't the all-powerful problem saving technology that people believe it is. I don't know the situation you got bitten in (hard cornering, tail snapped out?) but AWD cars can break traction just fine, if you push them hard enough.

If your looking run them in drags then the lighter the better. I actually like the E1-2 look, but everyone prefers the E3 look of that shape Lancer.

Drivetrain not strong? where did you hear this, or you mean compared to the later models. You will be able to run 12s without going forgies for sure, just don't go pushing more than 360ps...piston & rods will go. For piece of mind swap in CP Evo internals up to 420ps or CT Evo internals just under 500ps.

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...