Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

c'mon people!! pull your finger out!

if this doesn't go ahead due to poor numbers i'll be absolutely shattered i've been looking forward to getting onto the dyno again for a while now...

even if you know how much power your'e making come down and support the club and chuck your car on anyway...

one more week, if we dont get the people interested, or coming...

This will be cancelled. i dont wanna stuff Pro-tek around by giving them a weeks cancellation notice or anything harsh like that.

seeing as though we had a dyno day only 2 months ago, interest is not here i think

Which is fair enough. People dont need to do dyno runs every 2-3months.

Seems the new-year before another will be done. So if you want cheap runs, say so now :rofl:

ash maybe it wouldn't hurt to put a post in the normal VIC section to get some more views... if we are that low on numbers it can't hurt can it?

the thread has had over 400 views.

People are looking at it :D

Wanna try get everyone using the Events Section as a default and thats whats happening :rolleyes:

Looking to be cancelled guys, ill give it 3 more days.

the thread has had over 400 views.

People are looking at it  :D

Wanna try get everyone using the Events Section as a default and thats whats happening  :rolleyes:

Looking to be cancelled guys, ill give it 3 more days.

399 of those views are me checking back to see if we have numbers yet!

c'mon SAUers!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is not a dual mass flywheel, so you will get some gear noise on a BNR34 unless you deviate from the OEM fluid spec and run a thick gear oil like what Nismo recommended for a while. Unfortunately I have never weighed the flywheel by itself prior to installation but it is not that light. It's probably an 8-9 kg flywheel. OEM BNR34 dual mass flywheel is like 14 kg which is kind of hilariously heavy. 
    • Got around to installing the Tomei Cam Cap Studs and the Hypertune cam baffles/splash guards. Unfortunately, I was not aware that the cam cap studs do not clear the stock RB25 internal cam cover baffles. Some research found a set from boostdoc which includes a replacement cam cover baffle and full length cam baffle + tools and fasteners. but I'm not keen on re-buying what I have already bought. So the plan is to take the hard route and modify the existing cam cover baffles to clear both the cam cap studs and the hypertune cam baffle plate. I assume there must be people who have gone through this even just to convert from cam cap bolts to cam cap studs? If so any tips would be appreciated. Otherwise I think I will mark where the cam cap studs foul, drill clearance holes in the cam cover baffle, and remove the cam cover baffle oil returns to clear the  hypertune baffle plate. I will also need to remove the baffle and drill and tap threads to bolt it back on so i can clean out any swarf. Fuel tank foam as extra cam cover baffling?
    • The incoming weather event seems to be affecting people in weird ways....🤣 And no, whilst there is some fancy engineering going on, I have no real interest in anything rotary really I had a Capella in the 90's, the rotary engine is way to temperamental, and extremely thirsty for my liking  If I won lotto and wanted to waste a ton of cash, a boosted K-swap would be what I would look at, until then, the N/A MZR2.5 will be at home in the engine bay of the NC A build like this, just without the idiotic street pulls and skids would be interesting to waste a huge amount of money on https://youtu.be/EgqAoVtUD1E?si=n3_umivrUPP8C9Cs
    • Now we're getting somewhere. All we need is a fractional rotor system so we can also have the RX3 and 5 back, and the world will be right again.
    • With that engine being a one rotor, would that make this into an RX4?
×
×
  • Create New...