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Pictures at: http://members.optushome.com.au/domeye/4sale/

Prices Are Firm: Will do trade for other goods of value.

Call 0401698552 or email bryanlee85@hotmail.com

Advan Racing Rims (3 spoke) 17x8 + 17x9 (little thread on tyres) = $1195 ($250 for 4 x 2nd hand tyres to fit - decent thread)

Stock r33 rims no tyres (immaculate condition) = $245

Pursuit Rims with Soft Compound Tyres (off r33) = $295

German 800watt Amp (4 channel) = $295

Kenwood Double Din Headunit with Stacker = $595

Pionneer Double Din Headunit = $395

r33 floor mats = $145

Stock r33 air box = $65

Stock r33 air box attachment (snorkal) = $25

front stock r33 suspension (struts) = $95

Ultra Automated Turbo Timer with harness (gold buttons) = $75

Ultra Automated Turbo Timer with harness (silver buttons) = $75

Automated FET Turbo Timer with harness = $75

Hks Super Dragger Exhuast (catback - missing flange) = $395 (with stock exhuast trade) or $495 as it is.

Snap On Tools Seat Cover (Black) x 2 = $45

17" BBS Rims (mesh rims with no tyres) off a WRX = $495

17" White Rims Semi-dish (5 spoke with no tyres) off a s13 silvia = $645

6x9 Speakers Sony 160watt - $85

6x9 Speakers Kenwood 220watt (has small puncture) - $45

2 x odd front speakers = $45

Boxed speakers Pionneer with inbuilt tweeters = $150

Generic Brand Pod filter (no adaptor) = $25

Generic Brand Pod filter (with adaptor - rb25det, sr20det) = $45

Blow off valve with rb25det adaptor = $85

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  • Latest Posts

    • As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying.  With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down.  Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol. 
    • The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 馃ゴ
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