Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

My name is Rach, and im new to the whole forum thing, someone decided to de-badge my car last week and i was wondering where i can get 2 badges for a Nissan R33 GTST. The first badge is a red S and sits on the front grill, the other one they took was the Nissan Boot Badge, the silver looking one.

If anyone In Melbourne can me, that would be great!!

Thanks!!!

Rachxx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52164-looking-for-nissan-parts/
Share on other sites

Hi Rach, welcome to the forums...always nice to see some more girls around here!

sorry to hear your car got badged...umm i know of a few places in sydney, but not too sure about melbourne?? might want to try the Vic section on here..

here is a list for you.

i recomend that you try nispares and renew auto frst.

Wreckers/Parts

www.nispares.com.au

www.renewauto.com.au

http://www.upimports.com.au

Nissall

9739 5015

Factory 1, 122 Beresford Road, Lilydale

EKW:

44-80 hampstead road, Maidstone

9274 4411 (nissan section)

Japanese Special Vehicles:

353 settlement road, thomastown

9466 4499

Performance Jap Specialist

4B merri court, campbellfield

9357 0658

NFA

58-60 Bridge road Keysborough 97981077

Workshop:

62 Bridge road Keysborough 97981077

Ask for ahmed (he's a member of the forums too)

James.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...