Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hahe had a little time to mod my car lately so i added a water spray kit to my front mount.

Bits used:

supercheap auto windscreen washer kit. it comes with bottle, wiper motor, tubing, and all stuff to mount it. it cost $28

6 micro garden spray nozzles and i bit of spray hose the length of the intercooler cost $5

switch cost $2

I mounted the spray bottle in my engine bay next to the battery and ran the hose thru the headlight hole to the intercooler using cable ties to make it secure. I attached to to a section of irigation pvc hose 620mm long with a stop in the other end. i then mounted this hose in the top lip of the front bumper so you cant see it (below the numberplate) then i put 6 spray nozzles in facing the intercooler so they spray all over the core.

Then i ran wires to power and the swithc on the footrest next to the clutch so you can spray between gears or at the lights. and presto, done!

the bottle i used is only 1.5 lt so in only lasts for about 2 hours of hard work spraying every 3 min for a couple of seconds.

I tested inlet temps with the temp probe i have already mounted in the bit of hose just before the throttle body.

The results are i am getting BELOW AMBIENT temps! on a 24deg day after a good spray my intake temps were 22deg! and i am getting full use out of my intercooler. best $35 performance upgrade ever!

it could use a bigger spray bottle tho.

the water syphons out of the jets to so i have to make a little pressure valve to stop the water from draining off when the pump is not on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52484-water-spray-results/
Share on other sites

yes that definately right. You will be looking at around $500 for the hr31 struts and hubs. I was fortunate enough to pick mine up for $250. You can use r32 gts-t or gt-r rotors and calipers which are bolt on and i've seen them sell for round 200-250 mark for just the front..

Yeah my mate did the same on his corolla front mount, worked a treat.

But out of interest has anyone done this to the stock cooler???  Is it even worth it?

it will work great on a stock cooler, as its more affected by heat soak then a front mount would be, so if your not planning on a FMIC anytime soon, its a worthwhile upgrade, which you can later re-adjust to suit a FMIC if you decide to get one

by the way, if the water your using is at room temp, then by the law of physics its impossible to get lower then ambient temps ;) ... what were the actual figures ?

it will work great on a stock cooler, as its more affected by heat soak then a front mount would be, so if your not planning on a FMIC anytime soon, its a worthwhile upgrade, which you can later re-adjust to suit a FMIC if you decide to get one

by the way, if the water your using is at room temp, then by the law of physics its impossible to get lower then ambient temps ;) ... what were the actual figures ?

I wouldn't say impossible. Wind chill factor and the evaporation of water will do this.

I used a 50/50 mix with metho in my bottle and the temp's go even lower, as metho starts to freeze when it evaporates.. Something along the lines of refridgeration..

Try placing some metho on your hand and feel the temp change as it dries off!

That is why our bodys sweat. So the water then gets evaporated, and therefore cools us, basically a primitive form of air conditioning (hey, even if its not right sure as hell sounded cool!)

I might look at hooking one up eventually tho. What about legalities of them???

or just lick your hand and blow on it ;)

:confused: :confused: i' wont go there ...

........

Nice work ... pics would be handy.... .. this same setup could double as a water injection setup on the turbo side too ...use soda water .. double oxygen content.

Matt

sorry i have been a biAutch and not posted photos i have been busy installing a new turbo. these things always start out as a "bolt on project" but always get harder as soon as u have the car apart.

I have gone for this spec turbo

Garrett T3/T04E Hybrid 57-Trim

0.50 A/R compressor housing

0.63 A/R turbine housing

57 Trim compressor wheel.

Stage III turbine wheel.

i have also gone with a 40mm hks style gate.

i had to get a custom flange made on the standard manifold to accomodate the wastegate and i also had to get custom dump pipe made. also had braided oil lines made by pirtek and replaced all gaskets and bolts with stainless items.

should spool up at 3700 and be at 1bar by 4200. i will be running 1 bar and putting out a theoretical 220-235rwkw more if i up the boost.

but the car is for drift so not more than 1bar is needed. it should be a

fairly quick when its finished.

it was a bitch of a job to get the turbo in there as its about twice the size of the stocker.

i swear i am not going to mod the car any more...

lol lol.

go make me a wicker basket :P

sounds cool man you comin to the cruise? I'd love to checkout other engine bays.[/quote

me be there with turboz on and no make your own damn wicker basket!!! my cheap sweatshop labour is for love... only love

CEF11E: I too was gonna go that way (Garrett T3/T04E Hybrid) but after sitting in a mates r32 with the same setup. Found it spooled up way too long for practicality in drift. Also full boost its way too mentle. :P

Im leaning more towards the 2530 series. They seem to have more responsiveness and spool up much more earlier with full boost by 3500. I found this more easier to drift in/race track in.

CEF11E: I too was gonna go that way (Garrett T3/T04E Hybrid) but after sitting in a mates r32 with the same setup. Found it spooled up way too long for practicality in drift. Also full boost its way too mentle. :P

Im leaning more towards the 2530 series. They seem to have more responsiveness and spool up much more earlier with full boost by 3500. I found this more easier to drift in/race track in.

yeah i wanted the 2530 but it was too $$$ so i guess i will have to tune the wastegate and learn throttle control. shouldnt be to bad with external wastegate tho.

got the car back on the road and into the fine tuning stages. my calculations were a bit off. spools at 4000 full boost by 4600 and it goes WHACK!!! tyre frying in 1st 2nd and third... at 1 bat i estimate by seat of the pants dyno lol... its at about 210rwkw at 1 bar. I wont push it past this till it goes on the dyno.

The wastegate Screams too! the guy who tuned it for me says easy 250rwkw at 1.5bar hehe me got fast car now...

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...