Jump to content
SAU Community

coil packs 1.2 ohms


Doctor 30
 Share

Recommended Posts

My car is missing in high rpm so I thought I'd check the coil packs. They all read 1.2 ohms when you measure as per the instructions

http://www.powerlink.co.nz/~graeme/faq/30.html

As they are all at this level I am thinking there is a chance it is the $20 multi meter more so than the coil packs

I have my dodgy multimeter dial set to 200ohms, is this correct?

Also how do I test the ignitor/amplifier?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Set the meter to the lowest scale possible to get an accurate reading. If you touch the leads on the meter together, you may get a reading on the meter. e.g. 0.4 ohms. This is the resistance of the leads and must be subtracted from the reading you get when you check anything. i.e. 1.1 - 0.4 = 0.7

Anyway, as long as they're all reasonably close, they should be fine. If you're really unlucky, one coil might be going open circuit when under load. If you know any sparkies, they'll have an insulation resistance tester which can pump 500v or 1000v through the coil (as opposed to a multimeter's 2-3volts). This will find very small breaks in the coil which won't show up with a multimeter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, I did a search on coil packs. I could not see cracks on any of them but three are not original coil packs so it has had problems before (one is off a CA18).

I just checked the multimeter reads .4ohms resistance so they are all .8ohms so they are fine.

Any idea on testing the ignitor with a multimeter?

(BTW its running a little smoother with the carbon tips cleaned)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Car is running fine now, I cleaned corrosion off the ignitor and cleaned the carbon tips (like I said before) It is pulling all the way to 7000 with out missing and boy does she bang into second gear.

No I haven't, I am far too lazy that even when I had the coil packs off I couldn't be stuffed pulling the plugs out.

What gap should I run in an RB20DET running 13-16.5 psi? (I thought it would be different to RB25DET b/c of the different compression ratios)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...