Jump to content
SAU Community

How much are you paying for CTP Greenslip


Recommended Posts

Got a quote for the R33, 23, several fines no suspensions and in Epping- $720 for CTP. Then rang again got another quote for 27, no fines or suspensions and living in Epping- $720. What the **** is wrong with NSW. Just out of curiosity I did another quote for Gosford, and the price dropped to $489. f**king joke. It cost me $360 for Rego WITH CTP in Vic last year.

Got a quote for the R33, 23, several fines no suspensions and in Epping- $720 for CTP. Then rang again got another quote for 27, no fines or suspensions and living in Epping- $720. What the **** is wrong with NSW. Just out of curiosity I did another quote for Gosford, and the price dropped to $489. f**king joke. It cost me $360 for Rego WITH CTP in Vic last year.

welcome to NSW, the rape your wallet state.
  • 2 months later...

That's really steep Jayson.

O'Farrell acknowledges that something needs to be done but the wheels of politics move like snails.

Once upon a time decades ago, the CTP was split off from the rego, but I forget what the reason was: maybe so that the CTP might come under more scrutiny?

I hate the idea that within 1 decade of now, the combined cost of CTP + Rego might exceed $2K.

NSW is ridiculous i just got my new one and it is $783 plus $910 for rego

Just about to get my car re-registered, and I also got a quote for $780+ for a greenslip. I assume my rego would be the same also?

After an engineering certificate, blue slip and some new tyres this is going to be expensive :wacko:

Wouldn't bring it down bobby.

My Mazda 400ish

Gosford to some ctp insurers is country and apparently less risk. How? No idea as most commute to Sydney anyway haha

Not involved with ctp ratings in my job so no idea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Only thing I'd add...is on recommendation from a good diff shop, I've used mineral oil in my diff including the race car for years. The synthetics can be too slippery and glaze the gears
    • 75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive. 
    • Because you're effectively rushing the shift and forcing it to go in - with greater leverage against parts that don't _want_ to go together. Short shift = forcing the gear in harder. Also Redline Heavy Shockproof actively says not to use it in anything with Synchros. Well, it says "not recommended" which is basically as far as anyone will ever say in a product statement to "Do not use" Generally the Redline makes the gearbox feel great... until it fails faster. https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof
    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
×
×
  • Create New...