Jump to content
SAU Community

How much are you paying for CTP Greenslip


Guest DON91E
 Share

Recommended Posts

21 hours ago, deongster said:

i need a CTP for the Jazz - its freaking $890 NRMA now... THAT IS MAD!!!!

Screen Shot 2016-10-14 at 9.58.38 AM.png

Whoooooh!

I paid $361 for my Tiida for 12 months with QBE and $387 for the R34GTR on the 26/4/16

It must have something to do with a persons age,  where they live and or their driving record I guess when they give you a quote ??????????????????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 14/10/2016 at 9:59 AM, deongster said:

i need a CTP for the Jazz - its freaking $890 NRMA now... THAT IS MAD!!!!

Screen Shot 2016-10-14 at 9.58.38 AM.png

That is ridiculous!  My 32 GTR was $890 with NRMA.  25yo clean driving record

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is ridiculous!  My 32 GTR was $890 with NRMA.  25yo clean driving record



Looks like $890 is the number now. Bloody expensive. I have to get for the Pathfinder and GTR in May next year. I fear it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, deongster said:

 

 


Looks like $890 is the number now. Bloody expensive. I have to get for the Pathfinder and GTR in May next year. I fear it.

time to 'move' to the central coast. $280 cheaper there :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well Terry, quotes are above $800 these days, so I'd say so.
I still don't see the reason for the massive increase in the past 5 years. More dodgy claims? Yes, but why almost double it?
Just an unregulated cash grab, and us suckers stuck in Sydney have no choice but to pay it (apart from not having an address to register to outside of Sydney).

Hell even the NSW Government hopped on the bandwagon and doubled the "motor vehicle tax".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Terry_GT-R34 said:

So is it correct (or incorrect), that CTP Insurance is cheaper outside of the Sydney Metropolitan Area?

Terry, you only have to look at we pay outside of Sydney to answer your question.

Same company , same type car and half the price.

There are pockets of people in Sydney (and other areas) that make big money by manufacturing claims, you can win a camel saddle if you can guess where ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always knew that was the case quite a few years ago. My Q I  should have clarified, pertains to recency. 

Ok, so nothing has changed from when I knew that CTP premiums were always more expensive in Penrith compared to Emu Plains.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Terry_GT-R34 said:

I always knew that was the case quite a few years ago. My Q I  should have clarified, pertains to recency. 

Ok, so nothing has changed from when I knew that CTP premiums were always more expensive in Penrith compared to Emu Plains.

Until these threads on CTP started I did not know there was any difference in costs depending where you lived etc, I thought it was a flat rate across the board and as usual the good pay for the bad :/ 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

in other news

http://www.insurancebusinessonline.com.au/au/news/breaking-news/ctp-changes-could-see-drivers-require-income-protections-insurance-225196.aspx

 

really not sure how NSW is so shit at CTP. QLD has a different system and seems to work well and is affordable. Why cannot there be a nation-wide system?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, evil_weevil said:

in other news

http://www.insurancebusinessonline.com.au/au/news/breaking-news/ctp-changes-could-see-drivers-require-income-protections-insurance-225196.aspx

 

really not sure how NSW is so shit at CTP. QLD has a different system and seems to work well and is affordable. Why cannot there be a nation-wide system?

Going through rego in QLD atm I can vouch for this :D $380 state wide for Class 1 (i.e. Car and stationwagon) interestingly... $75 for ' vintage, veteran, historic or street rod motor vehicles'

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just did a simple quote for my GTR - due next year May

$612 per annum - WTF such big difference...

$894 for the Honda Jazz 1.3 - has 3rd party Fire & Theft - saw no point paying so much for Comprehensive for a $3000 car... why such VAST difference... do not get it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SAU > General Automotive > Savings on CTP in NSW Whilst With NRMA VVC...

My story this morning of how I saved $280 by going to a NRMA Branch and asking for an adjustment, rather than pay online or by phone

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
×
×
  • Create New...