Stagea Dyno Results

[Guest]

It was that rich they were laughing at it, and it is more responsive.

[mcnamg]

so you can anticipate an imporvement in the fuel economy then i guess?

[Guest]

Not at 12 pounds of boost.

[mcnamg]

OOPS i didnt see that bit

[Jay95R33]

Driftt - what PSI were you running before the tune ? 12psi ?

Cheers

J

[Guest]

Hey DRIFFT.

This may seem like a stupid question but if I were to install an SAFCII into my car along with a bigger intercooler would I be able to change the settings to the same as yours? Save having it tuned professionally. All our mods would be the same. Kinda works in theory doesn't it?

My view everything is down to the tuner so always get it professionaly tuned on a Dyno that has a good reference, I have seen one customer turn up and blow his motor up because they leaned it out and said tuff shit.

I would say I had the car standard for compliance and then put everything back on, Pod, Intercooler, Exhaust and Boost controler, then had the SAFC tuned which was the inportant part.

The Blitz boost controler is say $1,000 and you always want something else.

A friend brought in a R33 and put an exhaust and pod on it and thought what next, he went out and had a Wolf fitted for $2,000 drive in and drive out and got 250 hp at the wheels. He figured by the time I bought the boost controler, SAFC, fuel cut and speed cut and tuned it all it would cost the same as the Wolf and he was more than happy.

My car was 8 pounds at 180 hp but from 211 to 231 it was the same boost just a bit of tuning, if we spent a bit more time i know we would of got more but I was happy as I mainly wanted fuel economy and over 200 hp.

[BensDR30]

Thought I'd better add my graph to the collection.

100% stock except on 'high-boost' mode all the time.

This run was performed in 2nd gear, snow mode & with the centre-diff synchroniser active.

The second run (blue) was after we'd advanced the timing a touch (~2deg).

[emanuelt]

129KW at all wheels

Mercury Motorpsort dyno day

Mods:

3" turbo back exhuast

Apexi air intake pod filter

R34 Gtt sidemount intercooler

manual boost controller running at 10psi

3rd gear, difflock on for 50/50 at wheels

[emanuelt]

I noticed some people had there dyno's done in 2nd gear. Is there much difference doing the dyno in 2nd or 3rd gear? When they did mine I know they where having trouble as it keep on changing back to second when they were doing the dyno but after a few goes they got it to stay in 3rd.

If thats standerd then my mods are not making much difference, I've never had it tuned before and need to put those Jcar kits in before I get it tuned to get the fuel/air ratio right and boost right.

[Terminal]

...If thats standerd then my mods are not making much difference...

Remember Marc2 has the RB25NEO, not the standard RB25.

[emanuelt]

The neo well that explains it.

Also here are some convertion formulas.

HPx0.7457=KW

KWx1.341=HP

[Sydneykid]

The neo well that explains it.

Also here are some convertion formulas.

HPx0.7457=KW

KWx1.341=HP

And they seem to loose around 70 - 80 kw through the auto and 4wd.

[emanuelt]

Sydneykid, Is there much difference doing the dyno in 2nd or 3rd gear? Thanks :confused:

[Gary1]

Sydneykid, Is there much difference doing the dyno in 2nd or 3rd gear?   Thanks    :confused:

If it is done properly shere should be absolutely no difference at all.

Cheers

Gary

[Tangles]

Hi to all you Stagea drivers,

Finally got my car back (well, getting it tonight) after a week in the dyno shop. Had the 80000km service but needed to replace the timing belt and associated parts, etc. Damn!

Anyway, would like to find out if my power figure is good for the work thats been done to the 1997 Series 1 Dayz edition Stagea auto rb25det.....

had 120kw at 4 wheels with 3inch cat-back Dayz(?) mild steel exhaust and K&N pod filter in custom enclosure, at about 9psi with a turbosmart boost controller.

Installed new Oxygen sensor, R34GTT intercooler, 3inch stainless steel single dump pipe, 3inch small body cat converter, Hybrid electronic boost controller, and a Apexi SAFC. After dyno tune the car has just over 142kw at the 4 wheels.

Is that a decent figure?

Also, what next? Hiflow the current standard turbo or install a Neo turbo (hiflowed?) How much more 4wkw would this give me?

Cheers all, Brendan

[Tangles]

Pretty much Ive had exactly a 19% increase in power, for an overall outlay of around $1300 on parts plus labour...

Hey SydneyKid, your'e definately an expert in the field of Stageas, is that a decent increase in power for the modifications made to the car?

Also, what would you recommend in terms of the turbo.... hiflow it or upgrade to what??? (the Stagea is driven 3x per week, and is the family car as such).

Thanks,

Brendan Wilkeson

[Sydneykid]

Hi to all you Stagea drivers,

Finally got my car back (well, getting it tonight) after a week in the dyno shop. Had the 80000km service but needed to replace the timing belt and associated parts, etc. Damn!

Anyway, would like to find out if my power figure is good for the work thats been done to the 1997 Series 1 Dayz edition Stagea auto rb25det.....

had 120kw at 4 wheels with 3inch cat-back Dayz(?) mild steel exhaust and K&N pod filter in custom enclosure, at about 9psi with a turbosmart boost controller.

Installed new Oxygen sensor, R34GTT intercooler, 3inch stainless steel single dump pipe, 3inch small body cat converter, Hybrid electronic boost controller, and a Apexi SAFC. After dyno tune the car has just over 142kw at the 4 wheels.

Is that a decent figure?

Also, what next? Hiflow the current standard turbo or install a Neo turbo (hiflowed?) How much more 4wkw would this give me?

Cheers all, Brendan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's a pretty good result, ours ended up at 133 rwkw with just the DFA (11 to 1 A/F ratios) and the IEBC (10 psi), zero mechanical mods. Do you have the dyno graphs for boost and A/F ratio? That's the best way to judge a tune.

Next step, I would go for a split dump, with BOS or CES being the best value for money. Personally I am going to use a GCG ball bearing hi flow turbo, keeping in mind my power target of 200 4wkw. So that turbo will do it easily at around 1 bar, or maybe even less.

Why 200 4wkw? Well I don't really want to change the injectors, or the fuel pump and I figure the auto will handle that power output without killing it. Plus it isn't a race car, it TOWS the race car, so it has to be reliable. Plus I don't want to spend all of my time (and money) modifying it beyond it use. Past experience with RB25's tells me 200 4wkw with an auto (about 215 rwkw with a manual) is a nice reliable and tractible power output.

cheers

[Tangles]

Thanks heaps for the info SK, your feedbak is highly appreiated, cheers straight back to you!! :lol:

I'll edit my post and put in the dyno graph I have, just got to scan it one day at work. See if I can do it this week....

The AFR starts off at just over 13.0 and then dips under 12.0 at 3750rpm, and corrects back up to 12.0 from 4370rpm onwards. The dyno was done in second gear, but from the graphs I have I cant tell the boost. It should be 10psi, as I asked the dual stage ebc to run 7psi for low setting (wife) and 10psi for high setting (me).

Max power is actually stated as 141.3kw at 110kmph, and max torque is 629.8 NM at 50kmph

Reasonably happy with that, not happy that the damn timing belt and idler needed to be replaced = $500 I didnt budget for!

Bought a single stainless 3inch dump pipe for $225 off ebay from Just Jap, as I wasnt prepard to spend $495 for the Bos Imports split dump pipe - maybe next year when I do more mods I'll upgrade then whilst working on the turbo.....

At the end of the day I reckon around 180kw at the 4 wheels is just fine for this car, so want to find that extra 4wheel 40kw.

Also, a query, the service report states that the air flow meter & the standard injectors are all nearing maximum output - does this sound normal? (doesnt to me!!). What air flow meter and injectors would you recommend replacing them with (when I do turbo work next year)?

Again, your feedback is greatly appreicated, cheers to you. And thank you....

Brendan

[Sydneykid]

Thanks heaps for the info SK, your feedbak is highly appreiated, cheers straight back to you!! :lol:

I'll edit my post and put in the dyno graph I have, just got to scan it one day at work. See if I can do it this week....

The AFR starts off at just over 13.0 and then dips under 12.0 at 3750rpm, and corrects back up to 12.0 from 4370rpm onwards. The dyno was done in second gear, but from the graphs I have I cant tell the boost. It should be 10psi, as I asked the dual stage ebc to run 7psi for low setting (wife)    and 10psi for high setting (me). 

Max power is actually stated as 141.3kw at 110kmph, and max torque is 629.8 NM at 50kmph

Reasonably happy with that, not happy that the damn timing belt and idler needed to be replaced = $500 I didnt budget for!

Bought a single stainless 3inch dump pipe for $225 off ebay from Just Jap, as I wasnt prepard to spend $495 for the Bos Imports split dump pipe - maybe next year when I do more mods I'll upgrade then whilst working on the turbo.....

At the end of the day I reckon around 180kw at the 4 wheels is just fine for this car, so want to find that extra 4wheel 40kw.

Also, a query, the service report states that the air flow meter & the standard injectors are all nearing maximum output - does this sound normal? (doesnt to me!!). What air flow meter and injectors would you recommend replacing them with (when I do turbo work next year)?

Again, your feedback is greatly appreicated, cheers to you. And thank you....

Brendan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Brendan, relying on past experience with RB25's (about 20 of them), the AFM is OK for ~220 rwkw before it starts to max out the voltage too early in the rpm range for the ECU to handle. So I don't think the standard AFM is going to be a problem.

The standard injectors are 370cc's, in a 6 cylinder that's around 370 bhp (276 kw). Our Stagea lost around 70 kw (170 kw = 100 4wkw) on our 4wd dyno, so the injectors are going to be close to running out at 200 4wkw. If they are not quite there, I will simply stick a Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator on it ($150) and raise the rail pressure by a few psi (standard is 36-38 psi). I would like 200 4wkw (it starts with a "2"), but if it ends up at 190 4wkw, then that will have to do. I am not changing the injectors, it simply isn't worth it for a handfull of kw's.

cheers

[Tangles]

Hi SK,

Cheers staright back to you.!! Thanks for your info.

I cant upload my dyno graph, tried 3 times today and it just aint working. Oh well, I'll try again later.

Talked to the workshop today, they said the AFM was running 4.95 volts, with just over 5 volts being max, and said if I want that extra 40kw when I do more mods in a years time then a Z32 AFM is needed (oh, and your reputation preceeds you, the fellas at Graham West Workshop read your posts!!).

Also, they said the injectors are currently at 76%, so there is room to move and they 'might' be all ok to get that power figure, but warned me against running them at 100%. Obviously.

They also said the GTT intercooler was running near max with the standard ecu, but said if I did an aftermarket ecu it should be all ok, although they didnt reckon 200kw at the 4wheels is possible with the R34 'cooler.

If I find a cheap afm off ebay I'll grab one, but injectors on ebay seem quiet expensive, around $500+ odd dollars for a used set of 550cc items.

Anyway, regards to you and everyone else,

Brendan