Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  AlexCim said:
Ok guys, here we are, my turn now

The cars been breaking up at higher RPM, so I put it on a dyno to give it a little play around and see whats the go.

This was the first run of the car, still "colder" then the rest. The more runs it did, the worse the breakup got, so we have kinda concluded its the coilpacks that have shat themselves.

Auto 4WD Stagea

Only mods:

GCG highflow

3 inch split dump/front pipe BTMBL

5 inch catco cat in 3 inch inlet/outlet

3 inch stainless fuji catback

GTR FMIC with custom stainless pipes

Pipercross air filter in stock airbox

040 fuel pump

~11psi (my new actuator spring pressure....)

Coilpacks breaking up 5000+ RPM. You can see the car stuttering on the graph.

Peak power at 6800 and still going 157.7awkw. I always thought these cars were peaky as.

Not bad for a 100% stock untouched ECU. AFR were around 12.9 when on boost, around 14.5 off the boost from memory.

As you can see, the car was still climbing. Once i get in the new coilpacks I think it will go much nicer/smoother. When i get the time, ill get around to putting in the cams/DFA/SITC(need to buy an ITC first)

Also, SKA, can you please tidy this thread up and remove the off topic chitchat and all the "not working" etc talk? Just so we can have a more direct comparison of dyno graphs instead of 5 pages worth for like, 5-6 graphs :P

Being a sticky would be nice too... nudge nudge

Hi Alex, I don't think that you have a coil pack problem, that graph looks typical of standard ECU R&R mapping. If it was coil packs (or anything else ignition wise) it would get much worse as the rpm rises. ECU R&R mapping kicks in when the airflow (as measured by the AFM) exceeds the standard by too much. This happens just after boost build, where modified cars get a big jump in airflow from the exhaust, the inlet and the turbo (in your case). As the rpm continues to rise and the boost is stable, the airflow increase is not such a big jump and the ECU tolerates it a little better.

Looking at your power graph that is exaclty what is happening. So don't waste your money on coil packs, it's time for an SAFC or equivalent.

:) cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

Interestingly, I changed the coilpacks last week and it fixed my problem of stutter at high RPM and the power delivery is now smooooooth.

I had about 10 runs pre-new packs and the hotter the coilpacks (engine and all) got, the worse the top end power graph got, yet maintaining the stuttery look about it. After the car/packs were warm, I was making about 150kw peak power.

Also, at the drag day I went to on the weekend (14.3@99mph, could have done a 14.2@100mph) I ran 15psi with the GCG using the turbotech boost controller and I did not get ANY R&R, the car drove beautifully. Maybe my ECU's a freak?

I got me a cheap set of splitfires anyway, $500 for the 6 so with only 100km use. Ive now left my coil pack cover off to improve heat disipation from that area.

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got back from the tuning place near me (www.westonperformance.co.uk) (notice they use Australian gear!) and I'm smiling like a cheshire cat! Never had a car on a rolling road before - exciting stuff - your own car inches away doing 120 mph and going nowhere. Anyway I had a de-cat pipe dropped in, a Turbosmart eBoost 2 controller and a session in their DynoDynamics four wheel cell. Max at the flywheel was 257.3 hp - then he dropped it a bit and set it at 256 hp dead. Don't know how that sounds to you guys, but bejesus it feels damn good!!! :laugh: When I've scanned it I'll put the graph up.

hmmm - intercooler next I think - and then........

Cheers

John

Aussie dyno (Dyno Dynamics) and Aussie boost controller (Turbosmart) - the Brits must regret sending all those convicts (and the potential wealth of knowledge) that they "threw away" when they shipped those convicts here roughly 215 years ago!

:D:ermm:

  GoldZilla said:
I've noticed on the website that they actually list Autronic and APS!

Yep - I asked the workshop manager if they had connections in OZ and he said no - but he only uses the best stuff he can get his hands on so there you go! He designed the dyno cell around the Dyno Dynamics kit and it is an impressive set up.

Graph to follow!

John

:ermm: Cheers mate - can't take any credit really - I just nod and agree with some suggestions - the guys at Weston performance are boffins and the bloke who worked on mine has some kind of fetish for Nissan engines - he loves them!

they are going to quote me for a front mounted intercooler and some cold air ducting for the intake to bring the temperatures right down - and allow for a bit more boost... where's my wallet?

  • 3 weeks later...

I ran my SII yesterday at CRD. made 154kw atw with the restrictors still in the mufflers.

mods so far are:

*K&N Pod on a custon intake pipe

*profec A boost controller

*Advan split dump pipe

*X force 3" cat

*custom dual 2" cat-back wth twin resonators and cannon.

it's not the nicest graph in the world,but I reckon it's putting out decent power for an un-tuned car with a crappy EBC. will run it up again once it's copped a bit more work. am still thinking about just how far I want to go with the car.

Justin...

post-7670-1151305421.jpg

post-7670-1151305489.jpg

I would like to add a link to this thread in the "Stagea Diy's, How To's, & Fyi's" thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102808

And then unsticky this thread, any objections?

Hey guys, i have a genuine autech RS260 that i havent had a chance to get dynoed yet,

so far i have fitted a set of high flow manifolds and dump pipes and the rest of the system

to go with it which has made the boost jump from 7 to 14psi with out touching anything else,

i was wondering if anyone knows what sort of power these put out? I have an R32 with 220rwkw

and the 260 puts you back in your seat alot harder than even that does? Any ideas?

Stock power output should match an R33 GT-R as essentially that's what it is mechanically. As for performance, it should be slower than a stock GT-R (when it is a stock 260RS) as it is heavier...

  munchdesign said:
Stock power output should match an R33 GT-R as essentially that's what it is mechanically. As for performance, it should be slower than a stock GT-R (when it is a stock 260RS) as it is heavier...

Thanks munch, i know the stock quarter times on a stock 33 gtr are 12.6, and a stock rs260 is 12.9, so there not alot slower for the weight difference, but with my exhaust mods and double the stock boost i would hope to see some improvement over stock power outputs. Any power listings for any of the high power jap cars always seems to say 206, which ive been told is an understatement even from factory, thats why i wondered what an accurate guess might be. I need to find time to get to a 4wd dyno, but as far as i know none are on my side of town. Can anyone suggest anywhere with a reliable 4wd dyno in adelaide?

Tangles could be your man (also in Adelaide), he may demand a ride in the 260 for the info though! Haha.

They're close 1/4 times, I would have thought there would be more difference, very interesting!

Cheers

Luke

well i put my stag on the 4WD dyno at SAS yesterday (Toymods Dyno Day), not too impressed with the results, but with the A/F ratios as bad as mine i cant expect much more. peak power was at 4500 RPM

here is the dyno sheet

02.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...