Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is your car a S2? If you have a neo motor I would have thought you would be producing closer to 200rwkw. (I am only guessing this based on the level of mods between your car and mine looks similar)

S1 so non neo engine.....

atomalty,

I made 265rwkw in mine, my mechanic installed every part from stock and is just right around the corner form R.E Customs in you wanted to pop in and get hime to work on it.

It was a brilliant car to drive when it was finished.

Ooo pm me the contact. :)

RS4S opens up lots of choices for ECU's from PowerFC, ViPEC, LinkG4, E-MU, Nistune etc.

standard turbo, exhaust, FMIC, a little more boost usually = around 200rwkw +/- 10kw (remove the front driveshaft for 2wheel dyno)

AWK won't be that different but subtract a few kw's.

pull the front driveshaft and back to back test it on the 4W dyno then we will all know the difference on a stagea. :)

i'm leaning towards the nistune.. anyone else got a nistune on their RS4S ? :cool:

where would be the best place in Melbourne to get one installed? (RECustoms? :P )

or is there anyone else who would reccommend something else? (for a similar price) ;)

i'm leaning towards the nistune.. anyone else got a nistune on their RS4S ? :P

where would be the best place in Melbourne to get one installed? (RECustoms? ;) )

or is there anyone else who would reccommend something else? (for a similar price) :)

Status Tuning in Dandenong.

Trent (URAS on here) does a heap of different ECU's and piggybacks.

^^^ yeah what he says.

talk to trent about what you want and he is more than qualified to match an ECU to your needs.

nistune was not an option when i installed the powerfc on my RS4S plus i have a powerfc and datalogit already for the R33 so this was the best option for me at the time it went in.

You're making over 400bhp already - what else do you have planned for it?

hey :thumbsup:

got 8x S15 480cc injectors already, and a remap planned with Toshi.

just need to save, then will have 2 chips - 1 for stock inj. 240rwkw & 1 for 480cc inj. 260rwkw

:banana:

  • 3 weeks later...
i'm leaning towards the nistune.. anyone else got a nistune on their RS4S ? :P

where would be the best place in Melbourne to get one installed? (RECustoms? :P )

or is there anyone else who would reccommend something else? (for a similar price) :P

Very, very impressed with 'Springy Motors' at Springvale. Speak to George - he's a legend. Got my car back yesterday and it goes like a new machine! See the results of my setup below:

2000 Stagea RS-Four S

'Nistune' computer + tune

3" turbo-back (JJR front pipe, Catco hi-flow Cat, and HKS Hi-Power Silent cat-back & Calsonic Hi-Flow Air Filter)

Cooling Pro 'Stealth' FMIC (Finally got this fitted correctly at Springy too!)

Boost tweaked to max. spike of 14psi.

post-52103-1247746870_thumb.jpgpost-52103-1247746881_thumb.jpg

I didn't think was too bad a number for 4-wheels! I'd be happy to PM you with more info, Atomaly.

+60 kw with a tune? That's a fantastic result. All s2 owners would benefit from getting the nistune as early as possible so as to gain maximum benefit from each subsequent mod!

Although it is a pretty amazing increase, the 125kW figure would have been a bit higher before I put the FMIC in (I had a cooler pressure leak and a split hose at the bleed-valve). With the stock setup, the power didn't dip off that noticeably in that range. I might have gotten around 140kW originally, but still, an increase of even 40kW is just awesome! The car feels great now - you can really notice the g-force kick after about 4,000rpm now, and you can feel the four wheels just getting the power down in lower gears without breaking traction. Stoked with the outcome. Highly recommend the 'bang-for-your-buck' value of the Nistune. There's no gizmos or adjustment in-cab, but I didn't want all that anyway.The results speak for themselves, and the car is now setup specifically for my mods.

  • 1 month later...

Well I have finally reached the limits of my current sidemount at 225.7 AWKW. Car was making more power but smic was getting hot so current tune is the safe setting. I conclude that the GTT or s2 smic is good for about 220AWKW but you would probably see benefits from a front mount from about 200AWKW onwards (i.e. when you replace your turbo). In my case I am going to stick with the smic but I'm looking for an ARC one which should enable me to retune to 240AWKW which will do me for now. Car seems very fast now (80-120km/hr in 3 seconds flat) and I will try to get a 1/4 mile time this summer ( won't be that flash but Í am interested to know).

Relevant mods (excluding the thousands I have spent on suspension and brakes):

76mm exhaust with split dump and no cat (still a bit restrictive as very quiet)

Stock turbo highflowed by GCG

Walbro fuel pump wired to full battery voltage.

550 DeatschWerks injectors

Z32 AFM

Nismo smic (similar in size to GTT but allegedly slightly more efficient)

Pipercross panel filter in stock airbox

GReddy adjustable exhaust cam gear (set at 3.5 deg ret so 4 deg pretty muuch OK)

Jaycar IEBC set at 1 bar

R32 ecu chipped by X-tune and piggybacked on to stock ecu.

Thanks to Joe (Joe's Mechanical Services) and Andy (X-Tune)

post-49463-1252035650_thumb.jpgpost-49463-1252034344_thumb.jpg

I'm not the expert! Z32 was an option but Andy the electronics whizz chose the R32 one. There was a heap of work involved. If I did it again I think I would go with either the Greddy E-Manage or get a wire in Link (Vipec).

Very nice power - what boost are you running every day on the road?

Its not an everyday road car but at the moment the profec b is set at 1.2 and 1.56 . I have the Greddy remote boost switch on the steering wheel which swops it over at a touch (definately the best toy I have ever bought :banana: )

Edited by RSVFOURUK

Well I can't compete with those 500hp+ figures from the UK, or Tangles' awesome S1, but here are my 'before' and 'after's. First one was done at my 100K service and was completely stock apart from a K&N panel filter in the stock airbox. Then there were some mod's, and a re-tune. I am very happy with the result so far anyway.

Before:

post-32445-1252584777_thumb.jpg

After:

post-32445-1252584787_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
×
×
  • Create New...