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Hi Jetwreck

Are you sure they fitted GT3071 into the stock turbo housing? I thought M35's come with a GT2860 as standard. I don't think there is enough meat in the housings to machine them out to the dimensions of a GT30 based turbo.

The graph looks like it is making power consistent with a GT28 framed turbo so perhaps it is a higher spec version from this series.

Hi Jetwreck

Are you sure they fitted GT3071 into the stock turbo housing? I thought M35's come with a GT2860 as standard. I don't think there is enough meat in the housings to machine them out to the dimensions of a GT30 based turbo.

The graph looks like it is making power consistent with a GT28 framed turbo so perhaps it is a higher spec version from this series.

I'm positive ......I had quite a few discussions with the guy that rebuilt it......ended up my choice may have been a little wrong as I have no power down low(ATM).......but then again once you get up in the rev's the thing is a weapon!.....just gotta keep it up there.

see attached pic....mines the Precision one

post-37023-1270760945_thumb.jpg

Good comparison shots Craig, They really crammed it in there. That stock intake will be really holding back your top end mate.

My exhaust turbine is much smaller than those, 56mm, which gives me 20psi at around 3000 revs. When does that monster come on boost? If you're not using the power, why did you go the laggy option mate? I could swap with you if you want. :)

My exhaust turbine is much smaller than those, 56mm, which gives me 20psi at around 3000 revs. When does that monster come on boost? If you're not using the power, why did you go the laggy option mate? I could swap with you if you want. :D

Mate, you are a lost cause :P

What is the reason for the dip?

turns out it is due to the length of the actuator arm

the dip is when the internal wastegate is opening, so the shaft speed slows down

could be fixed pretty easily, no big deal atm tho.

250kw is simply awesome

and having the brakes to match now helps too :P (front r32 gtr calipers + qfm a1rm pads)

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All,

Just got my 1999 RSFour Auto dynoed and it put out 100awkw...

Its pretty stock with the exception of a 3" turbo back exhaust, Hiflow panel filter, Profec B set at 13psi....

Does this seem a little low?? I got it done at tunehouse (ill post up the dyno printout when i can) and supposedly it was done in 4th gear...??

What do you guys think, Is this a reasonable result with the mods done??

cheers, adrian

Hi All,

Just got my 1999 RSFour Auto dynoed and it put out 100awkw...

Its pretty stock with the exception of a 3" turbo back exhaust, Hiflow panel filter, Profec B set at 13psi....

Does this seem a little low?? I got it done at tunehouse (ill post up the dyno printout when i can) and supposedly it was done in 4th gear...??

What do you guys think, Is this a reasonable result with the mods done??

cheers, adrian

Anyone feel free to correct me.

But I do believe that Auto's should be dyno'd in 3rd, as 3rd is a 1:1 ratio. Same as 4th in a Manual = 1:1 ratio.

I've seen a Stock (with basic FMIC etc) R33 Dyno'd in 4th = 220rwhp then in 3rd = 260rwhp.

So in saying this. I'd say, you actually have more then 100awkw.

If this make sence?................

Autos should be dynoed in 2nd gear with the snow button on - that way it won't suddenly kick down halfway through the run. The proper correction should be factored in by the dyno. 100awkw does seem a little low for 13psi. SK got 130kw with stock exhaust and only 10 psi but with dfa (safc equivalent) which wouldn't really give much more power:

[bTW Adrian if you have a S2 and you're not planning any more mods for a while a nistune chip and tune would be a great investment - you probably could do with more advance and should be able to get 140 or so kw. - I know I'm a foreigner but my reading suggests one of Sydney's top tuners would be Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering]

Dyno results with a completely unmodified Stagea

Just finished tuning the Stagea with the Jaycar Boost Controller & Digital Fuel Adjuster. There was a half hour window where the 4wd dyno and the operator were both free at the same time. Tuning took all of 20 minutes on the rollers with Dyno Dave running the Dyno Dynamics and your truly pushing the buttons on the Jaycar Controller.

With ZERO mechanical changes (std exhaust, std intercooler, std airfilter etc), just the 2 Jaycar electronic controllers fitted, we managed 132 4wkw at 10 psi running a nice and safe 11 to 1 AFR's. At midday on a 30 degree plus day, with no temperature correction applied. That's a good 30% improvement over standard, for an all up cost of $380 in parts and dyno time. That's what I call good bang for my buck.

As well as making more power, I also leaned out the AFR's to a more fuel economy friendly 14.5 to 1 at the lower rpms (off boost). The standard AFR's were 12 to 1 off boost and went as high as 9 to 1 on boost, not good for power or fuel economy. I would have liked to go a little leaner than 11 to 1, but the ignition timing was getting a bit advanced as I pulled more fuel out of it with the DFA lowering the AFM voltage. It was the usual piggy back compromise, no doubt exacerbated by the standard exhaust, compliance cat and standard intercooler. I could trick the standard ECU just so much, then it would pull ignition timing and dump a whack of fuel in.

My biggest single observation with the Jaycar DFA was how easy it was to get rid of the usual RB25DET power dip around 4,250 rpm. With 100 settings at 128 load points I could fine tune it so easily. There is simply NO DIP, and anyone who has tuned an RB25DET will tell you that is hard to achieve with piggy back controllers.

Thanks for the feedback guys, from what I have read most people don't do it in 4th gear but when I asked the guys they mentioned that 3rd wasn't long enough...I know the figures sound low but I guess each dyno / operator will give a different result...

Bob I plan on getting a nistune (i got quoted 1100 installed and tuned from envy) - just waiting for the funds!!!

I don't have a graph showing the AFR's but I was advised it wasn't worth getting a SAFC as it wasnt leaning out...I plan on calling the workshop back as when im running highboost and nail the throttle (ie: kickdown) I get a loud pop at around 5000rpm ... which i think means its running rich?? I dunno im no mechanic but it sounds bad and scared the crap out of the mrs :(

attached is the dyno output - apologies for the crap photo (i dont have a scanner at home)....

post-65306-1276481530_thumb.jpg

Reason not to get an SAFC is because it is the same price as a Nistune chip which will do a lot more! Why do your charts stop at 6000 rev/min? Our engines will rev to 7000 no problem!

Yep I reckon a Nistune and a good tune will give you a big increase in power - worth saving up for!

Reason not to get an SAFC is because it is the same price as a Nistune chip which will do a lot more! Why do your charts stop at 6000 rev/min? Our engines will rev to 7000 no problem!

Yep I reckon a Nistune and a good tune will give you a big increase in power - worth saving up for!

Not too sure why it stops at 6000... good question...?? The dips at the top of the rev range Im told was due to the transmission... maybe that's why he didn't go further...anyhow from what I've heard nistune is the way to go so up till I get one i think ill be sticking to lowish boost!

cheers.

1100 its pretty exxy for a nistune

the board is only about $500, if you take it to an electronics repair place they can install the board for pretty cheap

then the tune, but if its fairly standard it shouldn't take long to fix it all up

Thanks for the feedback guys, from what I have read most people don't do it in 4th gear but when I asked the guys they mentioned that 3rd wasn't long enough...I know the figures sound low but I guess each dyno / operator will give a different result...

Bob I plan on getting a nistune (i got quoted 1100 installed and tuned from envy) - just waiting for the funds!!!

I don't have a graph showing the AFR's but I was advised it wasn't worth getting a SAFC as it wasnt leaning out...I plan on calling the workshop back as when im running highboost and nail the throttle (ie: kickdown) I get a loud pop at around 5000rpm ... which i think means its running rich?? I dunno im no mechanic but it sounds bad and scared the crap out of the mrs :thumbsup:

attached is the dyno output - apologies for the crap photo (i dont have a scanner at home)....

post-65306-1276481530_thumb.jpg

if it was dynoed in 4th wouldn't it hit the speed cut? mine hits the speed cut in 3rd.

it does sound fairly lo tho, 100awkw seems below average for a stocker let alone a stag with mods.

1100 its pretty exxy for a nistune

the board is only about $500, if you take it to an electronics repair place they can install the board for pretty cheap

then the tune, but if its fairly standard it shouldn't take long to fix it all up

Really? I've got quoted 1100 and 1500 fitted and tuned from 2 different shops.... If it really is only 500 for the board I'm sure i can get it tuned for a lot less than 600 - 1000!

Really? I've got quoted 1100 and 1500 fitted and tuned from 2 different shops.... If it really is only 500 for the board I'm sure i can get it tuned for a lot less than 600 - 1000!

yeah i'd be walking away from that quote. look for something in the $800-$850 range, that is a more acceptable price for supply, install, and tune. i always thought auto's were done in 3rd, with the S2 you don't have to worry about kick back, just put it in tiptronic and select 3rd.

Really? I've got quoted 1100 and 1500 fitted and tuned from 2 different shops.... If it really is only 500 for the board I'm sure i can get it tuned for a lot less than 600 - 1000!

they are probably using you to pay for a tuners licence for the nistune software

they are probably using you to pay for a tuners licence for the nistune software

I sent my ECU away and got it back.

I only got the bare basic Mods (FMIC + TBE)

Nistune Type 4 Board(Neo) Supplied+Fitted+Frieght = $370

2x hours tune time = $190 /hour ($380)

Total = $750 Drive away.

Note: I will be doing ALL the Pre-Dyno checks - Clamps, Plugs etc

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