Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Works good too, brings it all on heaps earlier, just like the grub screw in the BOV. :thumbsup:

I just got back from tuning after fitting the stock turbo, it was only a temporary tune as Garrett is out of GTX turbo's at the moment. Running ethanol and pushing 1.2 bar the stocker made 225awkw and 850nm. I might just stick with this one for a while... :cheers:

This is a good representation of what a stock turbo (17psi) and a stage 2 (20psi) can do on ethanol, overlaid on the same graph. Cihan was very impressed with the stockers capabilities.

That's very impressive. How long would you expect the stock turbo to last at those pressures? So much has been written about short life expectancy if over 14psi. Is this temporary return to stock a bit of an experiment where you don't care if it lets go Scotty?

I would prefer if it didn't, and I only raised it 2 or 3 psi, should be ok.

I have an opinion on the failures, it seems to be the rear bearing that goes, possibly caused by oil starvation. The oil restrictor banjo bolt only has a 1mm hole and could easily block, especially if the engine internals are dirty. As mine has been flushed, I am hoping it will last just fine. It doesnt sound noisy like they usually do.

It could be a good idea to flush your engines and then check the hole isn't blocked...

I'm not tuning, I'm fabricating a stand for the extraction fan I gave him, the 1m blades should do the job nicely. I wont say what it will suck like... :)

Do you want me to make another modified actuator?

I would prefer if it didn't, and I only raised it 2 or 3 psi, should be ok.

I have an opinion on the failures, it seems to be the rear bearing that goes, possibly caused by oil starvation. The oil restrictor banjo bolt only has a 1mm hole and could easily block, especially if the engine internals are dirty. As mine has been flushed, I am hoping it will last just fine. It doesnt sound noisy like they usually do.

It could be a good idea to flush your engines and then check the hole isn't blocked...

I'd love to know where exactly this is so i could check. Is it on the block or turbo? Is it recommended to drill the hole out to (say) 1.5mm or does that cause other problems?

I'm very keen to make the std turbo last as long as possible and, given your results, it doesn't look like I need to put up with low power. Not saying I will run boost that high though.

It only made 2kw more with the higher boost, but 100nm extra torque.

The restrictor banjo is in the block, you can just get to it with a (17mm?) spanner. Don't strip the thread putting it back in... I dont know if drilling it out will be too much for the seals, probably not, perhaps you should just check it to make sure it is clear.

I think Scott's been drilling the hole to 3mm

Mmmm, 300% increase. Sounds like Scott :thumbsup:

Thanks Scott. You posted at same time. I will check that it is clear in the first instance. Maybe discuss improvements later...

Edited by Commsman

He'll have to answer that one LOL. Banjo bolt...somewhere on the turbo..?.:/

or not...:blush:

For some reason the song "The devil went down to Georgia" springs to mind. But I digress.

Works good too, brings it all on heaps earlier, just like the grub screw in the BOV. :thumbsup:

I just got back from tuning after fitting the stock turbo, it was only a temporary tune as Garrett is out of GTX turbo's at the moment. Running ethanol and pushing 1.2 bar the stocker made 225awkw and 850nm. I might just stick with this one for a while... :cheers:

This is a good representation of what a stock turbo (17psi) and a stage 2 (20psi) can do on ethanol, overlaid on the same graph. Cihan was very impressed with the stockers capabilities.

scotty,

Nice result with stock turbo, didnt think they would like running at 17-20psi, are they ceramic wheel?

Also your dyno graph doesnt have the power dipo at 3500rpm??? Do you run stock converter/trans?

Yep, ceramic but much different design to the Skyline/C34 wheel, ours run at 1 bar stock where theirs blow at over 12psi apparently. That is where the worry comes from I think as not too many of us have been comfortable with ramping the boost on the stocker.

Nope, My transmission has had a full build, still a work in progress. The 4000 stall dominator made me is a little too open, the factory lockup clutch you see in the dyno graph wont work and just slips as it is trying to haul in 1.5 - 2k revs (which it just cant do). I have disconnected the clutch for street and installed a 12v switch direct to the solenoid for dyno runs. It holds well over 1100nm of torque that way, I had it slipping at 24psi on my old turbo so im not sure where it will crap out with the Garrett GTX.

I am trying to source a spare torque converter to cut open, they are hoping to find as direct a replacement as they can to allow a larger clutch and more efficient stall stator to be fitted. Perhaps the Patrol TC may fit? Let me know if theres a spare M35 one around as this will be an issue for anyone building their box eventually.

I just got back from tuning after fitting the stock turbo, it was only a temporary tune as Garrett is out of GTX turbo's at the moment. Running ethanol and pushing 1.2 bar the stocker made 225awkw and 850nm. I might just stick with this one for a while... :cheers:

This is a good representation of what a stock turbo (17psi) and a stage 2 (20psi) can do on ethanol, overlaid on the same graph. Cihan was very impressed with the stockers capabilities.

So much more power where you can use it on a day to day basis.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...