Stagea Dyno Results

[zei20l]

i rekon you can afford to go a larger plug gap with splitfires. probably 1mm

[GRIM_R32]

just booked in for my second every appearance on the rollers.... Very interested to see what it will do...

last time it made 155rwkw with splitfires, .8mm gapped plugs, safcII, FMIC and 12psi.

Since then ive done the following power mods:

3" turbo to gutted

Cat to 3 1/4 cat back

SITC

Reinforced intake pipe

Pod/box cold air feed

Any one wanna guess what im going to make?

Not enough to catch me Chris....hahahahaha...sorry, couldnt help myself! Seriously though, should make a nice improvement mate!

[kidafa]

haha dw ben not offended haha like ur comment now with a BIT of work its making 300+

how much were those JVC double din units again and are they still on special?

Bro's b days coming up and his Volvo yes an acutal volvo lol not a stag has no headunit. I might install mine into it for him and upgrade myself, undecided though.....

ice currently got a alpine CDA-9856 whats it like compared to one of those jvc units.

[kidafa]

nice improvement being....? will i crack 180rwkw?

[GRIM_R32]

Yeah Chris i would think you will be able to crack 180 with some boost!

I've only got one of those JVC units left, and no thats not a sales pitch! lol! After that one is gone we will be waiting for the new model to get here which i would imagine will be back up near the $899 mark.

The main difference between the alpine and jvc would be that the jvc only has one rca preout, so you would have to use line converters to get more rca preouts, hence it doesnt have a subcontrol in built, but i can get level converters with a gain control to do the same thing. Other than that obviously the jvc plays dvd's, but as far as power out put and capability of playing mp3's etc they would be quite similar.

Well yeah, it was just a bit of work requiring me to sell one stagea to fund the build! hahaha! Roo thinks i will get an extra 10kw by fitting blue mesh like him! hahaha!

[kidafa]

1 rca pre out isnt much of an issue as im not running an amp.... yet :S

maybe I should take some blue mesh with me do a run with then a run without... I herd it actually removes KW!

Check your pm ben

[kidafa]

180 with some boost meaning more boost? Don't really want to run more than 12 pound through the stock turbo or should i just harden the f**k up and run it at 14ish and when it blows highflow the f**ker? When they do let go do they cause any damage to anything else?

[GRIM_R32]

180 with some boost meaning more boost? Don't really want to run more than 12 pound through the stock turbo or should i just harden the f**k up and run it at 14ish and when it blows highflow the f**ker? When they do let go do they cause any damage to anything else?

Tune it for around the 13 mark and see what it makes. Depends how the turbo lets go as to if it will damage anything else, my turbo letting go is what prompted the rebuild as it sucked the blades back into the motor and chewed up the rear 3 pistons! not a recommendation by any means!

[Tangles]

12.5psi good oil I say 165rwkw

guessing of course

here is mine muahahaha

more in store too, shhhhhh

[wolverine]

180 with some boost meaning more boost? Don't really want to run more than 12 pound through the stock turbo or should i just harden the f**k up and run it at 14ish and when it blows highflow the f**ker? When they do let go do they cause any damage to anything else?

you would be pretty unlucky on an RB25 to suffer the same fate as an RB26 if the turbine wheel lets go. the turbine wheel should all end up in the cat.

wind it up to 12-13psi and be satisfied it will probably do its best work here. your tuner should be helping make this call anyway based on what results any extra boost gains for you.

[kidafa]

the turbine wheel should all end up in the cat.

What cat?

[atomaly]

finally got a dyno done at RE-Customs last night

S2 RS4-S

the first run showed that definate dip in power i was experiencing

but he said he should be able to fix!

and then

viola

it was running so R&R that the guys were laughing tho

i'm thinking i'll get it tuned and serviced pretty soon!

also had a bit of an issue with my timing belt rubbing against the lower engine cover slightly.

so i'm gonna contact SSV and ask them to fix it. since it is only less than a month from me buying it!

this was with

BLITZ FMIC

POD filter.

BOV

3" exaust!

im not really that knowledgable in stageas yet but thats all the noticeable mods i can tell

got some flames happening out the back of my exaust quite amusing. (thats normal running R&R yeah???) haha

TC

Edited June 16, 2009 by atomaly

[KiwiRS4T]

Not a bad result. You won't be able to tune it without some means to do so. Since you have an S2 the best bang for buck would be the Nistune. You could then also run some more boost (say 12 psi) either by by-passing the solenoid and adjusting the air bleed or (better) getting an electronic boost controller such as the Jaycar IEBC. That should get you up around 180 - 190 RWKW

[atomaly]

Not a bad result. You won't be able to tune it without some means to do so. Since you have an S2 the best bang for buck would be the Nistune. You could then also run some more boost (say 12 psi) either by by-passing the solenoid and adjusting the air bleed or (better) getting an electronic boost controller such as the Jaycar IEBC. That should get you up around 180 - 190 RWKW

180-190 AWKW u mean?

the guys from RE reckoned i prob didnt need a boost controller while i got the standard turbo in there!

i think i'll put in the rest of my stereo first mmmmm Alpine.... then start thinking about more mods

when he jumped in to reverse it up he was like.. 'huh' oh its a manual. haha i guess they dont see that many 'RS4 S' there then

[wolverine]

RS4S opens up lots of choices for ECU's from PowerFC, ViPEC, LinkG4, E-MU, Nistune etc.

standard turbo, exhaust, FMIC, a little more boost usually = around 200rwkw +/- 10kw (remove the front driveshaft for 2wheel dyno)

AWK won't be that different but subtract a few kw's.

pull the front driveshaft and back to back test it on the 4W dyno then we will all know the difference on a stagea.

Edited June 16, 2009 by wolverine

[KiwiRS4T]

Sorry! When I saw the "S" I thought 2wd for some reason - don't see that many 2wd or manuals for that matter! Yep so up to 180AWKW then. No, boost controller is not a priority, but it will help. Nistune should be your next mod ( after esentials such as sounds) in order to get the most out of your current set-up.

[StageaTypeS]

Well here is my dyno for an RS4 Type S, the car had the front drive shaft pulled (2wd Dyno)

The car was also running 12 pounds of boost. Initially I had a Turbosmart boost tee and on the first tune I was only reaching 195kw. The boost wasn't stable enough. Swapped to an Electronic boost controller and the result was an 8kw gain. IMO go straight for an EBC and get the computer done at the same time e.g. Nistune or something and get it all tuned in one go you'll be very imporessed with the result, when you drive home it will feel like your driving a different car

Mods are

Trust FMIC

Trust Blow Off Valve (Plumb back)

Fujitsubo front pipe and Cat back

Hi-Flow MetalCat

E-manage Ultimate

Gizzmo EBC

[kidafa]

Im on rollers next week with the above results do you think ill crack 180rwkw?

Engine Mods are:

HPI FMIC

3"turbo to gutted cat 3 1/4" cat back

SAFC II

SITC

Profec B set at 12psi

Splitfire coils

Gold series plugs at .8mm

Reinforced intake pipe/Apexi Pod

Guesses?

[StageaTypeS]

Im on rollers next week with the above results do you think ill crack 180rwkw?

Engine Mods are:

HPI FMIC

3"turbo to gutted cat 3 1/4" cat back

SAFC II

SITC

Profec B set at 12psi

Splitfire coils

Gold series plugs at .8mm

Reinforced intake pipe/Apexi Pod

Guesses?

Is your car a S2? If you have a neo motor I would have thought you would be producing closer to 200rwkw. (I am only guessing this based on the level of mods between your car and mine looks similar)

[atomaly]

Well here is my dyno for an RS4 Type S, the car had the front drive shaft pulled (2wd Dyno)

The car was also running 12 pounds of boost. Initially I had a Turbosmart boost tee and on the first tune I was only reaching 195kw. The boost wasn't stable enough. Swapped to an Electronic boost controller and the result was an 8kw gain. IMO go straight for an EBC and get the computer done at the same time e.g. Nistune or something and get it all tuned in one go you'll be very imporessed with the result, when you drive home it will feel like your driving a different car

Mods are

Trust FMIC

Trust Blow Off Valve (Plumb back)

Fujitsubo front pipe and Cat back

Hi-Flow MetalCat

E-manage Ultimate

Gizzmo EBC

i'll prob have a chat with the guys at RE-customs and see what they can do for me in terms of boost and ECU!

had a chat with Mark from SSV today about my little issues and they're gonna 'sort it out for me' aparantly since i did buy it less than a month ago.

(had to wait a few weeks to get it in for a dyno cos i can only do after 6pm.)

gotta fix a lower engine cover as my timing belt is slightly rubbing against it cos its slighty warped aparantly?

hopefully they fix my exuast too

(its got a bandage on a straight pipe equal with the left rear whell atm that they didnt notice 'apparently' haha)

i was thinking i'll get my belt done as my first fix as its at 82,000km at the same time..

what sort of $ would i be looking at for a belt change ?

Edited June 16, 2009 by atomaly