Stagea Dyno Results

[Sydneykid]

Hi SK,

Cheers staright back to you.!! Thanks for your info.

I cant upload my dyno graph, tried 3 times today and it just aint working. Oh well, I'll try again later.

Talked to the workshop today, they said the AFM was running 4.95 volts, with just over 5 volts being max, and said if I want that extra 40kw when I do more mods in a years time then a Z32 AFM is needed (oh, and your reputation preceeds you, the fellas at Graham West Workshop read your posts!!).

Also, they said the injectors are currently at 76%, so there is room to move and they 'might' be all ok to get that power figure, but warned me against running them at 100%. Obviously.

They also said the GTT intercooler was running near max with the standard ecu, but said if I did an aftermarket ecu it should be all ok, although they didnt reckon 200kw at the 4wheels is possible with the R34 'cooler.

If I find a cheap afm off ebay I'll grab one, but injectors on ebay seem quiet expensive, around $500+ odd dollars for a used set of 550cc items.

Anyway, regards to you and everyone else,

Brendan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Oh well, say hello to the guys at GWW for me, surely they have something better to do than read my crap..

We did an R32GTST with an R34GTT intercooler and it made 220 rwkw, plus I know of another that made 225 rwkw. So it's possible to get 200 4wkw out of it. I am not concerend about flow as the GCG ball bearing hi flow has 30% more than I need, so what if it drops a couple of PSI across the core. That turbo will flow 35 lbs of air at less than 1 bar with more than 72% efficiency, so I am not concerned too much about temperature either.

The only problem may be if I have to push the boost at the turbo past 1.2 bar to get 1 bar at the plenum, then the efficiency drops under 70% and the air temp might get too hot. The contingency plan, if that happens, is to fit an intercooler spray.

Yep, I always knew the injectors would be close, I try and stay no more than 85% duty cycle, but you can get by at 90%. If I sneak another ~10 PSI of fuel pressure, the injectors should flow an addtiional 15 kw worth of fuel. So that's the contingency plan there.

The AFM max voltage is 5.1 volts, but the voltage ramp is not linear ie; the difference between 4.96 volts and 5.1 volts is ~3%, but the airflow required to generate 3% more voltage is closer to 30% more. We don't find a problem with running 5.1 volts once past around 6,000 rpm, the fuel demands of a light tune RB25DET are pretty linear once past that rpm and therefore in line with RPM increases. So the mapping handles it OK.

Remember, you have an amount of AFM voltage adjustment to go after the AFM reaches 5.1 volts as long as you are reducing what voltage the ECU sees below that using the SAFC. An example, the AFM may get to 5.1 volts at 5,500 rpm, but the SAFC is reducing that to 5.0 volts for the ECU. This means you can tune further steps in what the ECU sees as changes in AFM voltage. So you can tune the AFM voltage from 5,500 rpm to 6,000 rpm and after that it doesn't matter anyway.

The real problem occurs if you reach 5.1 volts at 4,500 rpm, the required mapping isn't linear enough to handle that and you will have trouble tuning it properly. But you shouldn't get that under 225 rwkw.

cheers

PS; as I say often, every engine is different

Edited August 25, 2005 by Sydneykid

[ICE12]

SK I have just had my s1 tuned on a two wheel Dyna (front shaft pulled) and got 124RWKW what would that give me at all four I understand that it is a guestamate. I only have the R34GTT IC installed as it is hot in Darwin no other mods at this time.

Cheers ICE

[Tangles]

OK - SK.

Thanks mate, and yeah I had read your posts in regards to the R34 GTT cooler, thats why I ended up buying one (from member ED) as I figured it'd be fine for the power output Im after.

From what your saying (barring the fact that yes every engine does have different olrances) I can assume that the standard injectors and AFM (and R34 'cooler) should be all ok for the 180_4wkw mark.

If they are not, then we'll cross that bridge as we come to it.

Thanks for your time in writing up that helpful info. Sweet.

Brendan

[Sydneykid]

SK I have just had my s1 tuned on a two wheel Dyna (front shaft pulled) and got 124RWKW what would that give me at all four I understand that it is a guestamate.  I only have the R34GTT IC installed as it is hot in Darwin no other mods at this time.

Cheers ICE

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My guess, 110 to 115 4wkw. On a GTR the front diff, drive shafts, wheel bearings, brake drag, cv's, tire slip, uni's etc seems to soak up about 10 kw. The dyno differences are likely to be more than that anyway.

That's a pretty good result, plus 10-15 kw from the R34GTT intercooler. Did you increase the boost at the same time?

cheers

[ICE12]

Sk that iswith the boost standard no mods or controllers.

Cheers ICE

[emanuelt]

Just had the Jay Car kits Dyno tuned today.

150 KW at all 4 wheels 2nd gear with snow button on.

DFA and IEBC have given me an extra 20 KW at all 4 wheels from my last dyno of 129KW

Edited August 30, 2005 by emanuelt

[Tangles]

Just had the Jay Car kits Dyno tuned today.

150 KW at all 4 wheels    2nd gear with snow button on.

DFA and IEBC have given me an extra 20 KW at all 4 wheels from my last dyno of 129KW

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thats a nice result - could you maybe post up a list of everything you've had installed on the Stagea, just to give me some ideas (and others!) as to how to gain some more 4wkw?

Thanx, Brendan

[Sydneykid]

Just had the Jay Car kits Dyno tuned today.

150 KW at all 4 wheels    2nd gear with snow button on.

DFA and IEBC have given me an extra 20 KW at all 4 wheels from my last dyno of 129KW

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's a good result, do you have the dyno graphs you can post up?

cheers

[emanuelt]

150.6KW at all wheels

2nd Gear with snow button on

Mods:

3" turbo back exhuast (not split dump)

Apexi air intake pod filter

R34 GTT sidemount intercooler

JayCar DFA and IEBC

Martini Racing: Suber lube (oil aditive) and super kool (Radiator coolant aditive)from Liquid horse power range.

I still need to fine tune it on the road and still need to try and get rid of the power dip.

[Sydneykid]

150.6KW at all wheels

2nd Gear with snow button on

Mods:

3" turbo back exhuast (not split dump)

Apexi air intake pod filter

R34 GTT sidemount intercooler

JayCar DFA and IEBC

Martini Racing: Suber lube (oil aditive) and super kool (Radiator coolant aditive)from Liquid horse power range.

I still need to fine tune it on the road and still need to try and get rid of the power dip.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nice , very good A/F ratios , definitely gotta fit that exhaust on ours now . That damn RB25DET power dip is tricky to get rid off. I really played around with the A/F ratios on ours in the dip area and it helped a lot, but it was a fiddle.

cheers

[Tangles]

Damn, still cant get up my dyno sheet with the air fuel ratio curve...

Emanuelt - impressive. Ive got pretty much the same mods, but down 9kw.

Brendan

[Tangles]

This might work....

[Tangles]

And here's the latest, 160awkw @ 12psi:

Dayz special edition Stagea RS V Four

82150kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd

New Oxygen sensor, timing belt at 81000km service

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nissan Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless single dump pipe system

3inch Catco high flow catalytic converter

3inch Dayz edition cat-back exhaust system with quiet muffler

K&N pod filter in custom enclosure

Apexi 'hybrid' front mount intercooler with custom pipe kit

Hybrid dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 10 & 12psi

Apexi boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

[Sydneykid]

And here's the latest, 160awkw @ 12psi:

Dayz special edition Stagea RS V Four

82150kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd

New Oxygen sensor, timing belt at 81000km service

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nissan Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless single dump pipe system

3inch Catco high flow catalytic converter

3inch Dayz edition cat-back exhaust system with quiet muffler

K&N pod filter in custom enclosure

Apexi 'hybrid' front mount intercooler with custom pipe kit

Hybrid dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 10 & 12psi

Apexi boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Great result.

Good to see that there is plenty of injector duty left, what fuel pressure are you running?

cheers

[Tangles]

Sorry, dunno, will ask the question to the tuners.....

They said it was hard to get a decent power curve due to the Nismo fpr being *hard* to tune properly due to poor regulation results.

Cheaper option than injectors, but a bit of a band-aid patch if you ask me. But for $150 cant go wrong at this stage of the build up.

Cheers - Brendan

[Sydneykid]

Sorry, dunno, will ask the question to the tuners.....

They said it was hard to get a decent power curve due to the Nismo fpr being *hard* to tune properly due to poor regulation results.

Cheaper option than injectors, but a bit of a band-aid patch if you ask me. But for $150 cant go wrong at this stage of the build up.

Cheers - Brendan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The Nismo FPR adjusts the fuel pressure by the simple/common method of increasing the spring preload. I am not sure that I understand how that makes it "hard" to tune. I just stick the pressure gauge in the fuel supply circuit and turn the adjuster bolt until I get the desired pressure. Then I get on with ECU tuning of the A/F ratios, with the occasional check that the fuel pressure is still in the window that I selected.

All FPR's are hard to get right if you use THEM to tune the A/F ratios, some are more sensitive then others, some have largish windows that the pressure moves around in. This makes getting consistent A/F ratios much more difficult. That's why I would never use an FPR to tune A/F ratios, that's a job for ECU tuning (itself or via piggybacks).

So I am very curious as to why they think the Nismo FPR is hard to tune. Next time you are there, can you please ask for more details.

cheers

[AlexCim]

Ok guys, here we are, my turn now

The cars been breaking up at higher RPM, so I put it on a dyno to give it a little play around and see whats the go.

This was the first run of the car, still "colder" then the rest. The more runs it did, the worse the breakup got, so we have kinda concluded its the coilpacks that have shat themselves.

Auto 4WD Stagea

Only mods:

GCG highflow

3 inch split dump/front pipe BTMBL

5 inch catco cat in 3 inch inlet/outlet

3 inch stainless fuji catback

GTR FMIC with custom stainless pipes

Pipercross air filter in stock airbox

040 fuel pump

~11psi (my new actuator spring pressure....)

Coilpacks breaking up 5000+ RPM. You can see the car stuttering on the graph.

Peak power at 6800 and still going 157.7awkw. I always thought these cars were peaky as.

Not bad for a 100% stock untouched ECU. AFR were around 12.9 when on boost, around 14.5 off the boost from memory.

As you can see, the car was still climbing. Once i get in the new coilpacks I think it will go much nicer/smoother. When i get the time, ill get around to putting in the cams/DFA/SITC(need to buy an ITC first)

Also, SKA, can you please tidy this thread up and remove the off topic chitchat and all the "not working" etc talk? Just so we can have a more direct comparison of dyno graphs instead of 5 pages worth for like, 5-6 graphs

Being a sticky would be nice too... nudge nudge

[2rismo]

I just stick the pressure gauge in the fuel supply circuit and turn the adjuster bolt until I get the desired pressure.

Do you adjust flowing fuel pressure or static? Does that make sense?

[Ska]

Thread cleaned up and stickied, we are going to have a page of stickies soon

[Sydneykid]

Do you adjust flowing fuel pressure or static? Does that make sense?

I set the desired pressue after boost build, when the boost is stable. For example, the Stagea runs 10 psi boost (standard turbo) and I want 45 psi fuel pressure (above boost). So, on the dyno (or the road) I set the adjustable FPR to give me 55 psi once the boost is stable, which is anything over 3,000 rpm in the Stagea. Then I tune the A/F ratios with the DFA.

cheers