Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, here we are, my turn now

The cars been breaking up at higher RPM, so I put it on a dyno to give it a little play around and see whats the go.

This was the first run of the car, still "colder" then the rest. The more runs it did, the worse the breakup got, so we have kinda concluded its the coilpacks that have shat themselves.

Auto 4WD Stagea

Only mods:

GCG highflow

3 inch split dump/front pipe BTMBL

5 inch catco cat in 3 inch inlet/outlet

3 inch stainless fuji catback

GTR FMIC with custom stainless pipes

Pipercross air filter in stock airbox

040 fuel pump

~11psi (my new actuator spring pressure....)

Coilpacks breaking up 5000+ RPM. You can see the car stuttering on the graph.

Peak power at 6800 and still going 157.7awkw. I always thought these cars were peaky as.

Not bad for a 100% stock untouched ECU. AFR were around 12.9 when on boost, around 14.5 off the boost from memory.

As you can see, the car was still climbing. Once i get in the new coilpacks I think it will go much nicer/smoother. When i get the time, ill get around to putting in the cams/DFA/SITC(need to buy an ITC first)

Also, SKA, can you please tidy this thread up and remove the off topic chitchat and all the "not working" etc talk? Just so we can have a more direct comparison of dyno graphs instead of 5 pages worth for like, 5-6 graphs :P

Being a sticky would be nice too... nudge nudge

Hi Alex, I don't think that you have a coil pack problem, that graph looks typical of standard ECU R&R mapping. If it was coil packs (or anything else ignition wise) it would get much worse as the rpm rises. ECU R&R mapping kicks in when the airflow (as measured by the AFM) exceeds the standard by too much. This happens just after boost build, where modified cars get a big jump in airflow from the exhaust, the inlet and the turbo (in your case). As the rpm continues to rise and the boost is stable, the airflow increase is not such a big jump and the ECU tolerates it a little better.

Looking at your power graph that is exaclty what is happening. So don't waste your money on coil packs, it's time for an SAFC or equivalent.

:) cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

Interestingly, I changed the coilpacks last week and it fixed my problem of stutter at high RPM and the power delivery is now smooooooth.

I had about 10 runs pre-new packs and the hotter the coilpacks (engine and all) got, the worse the top end power graph got, yet maintaining the stuttery look about it. After the car/packs were warm, I was making about 150kw peak power.

Also, at the drag day I went to on the weekend (14.3@99mph, could have done a 14.2@100mph) I ran 15psi with the GCG using the turbotech boost controller and I did not get ANY R&R, the car drove beautifully. Maybe my ECU's a freak?

I got me a cheap set of splitfires anyway, $500 for the 6 so with only 100km use. Ive now left my coil pack cover off to improve heat disipation from that area.

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got back from the tuning place near me (www.westonperformance.co.uk) (notice they use Australian gear!) and I'm smiling like a cheshire cat! Never had a car on a rolling road before - exciting stuff - your own car inches away doing 120 mph and going nowhere. Anyway I had a de-cat pipe dropped in, a Turbosmart eBoost 2 controller and a session in their DynoDynamics four wheel cell. Max at the flywheel was 257.3 hp - then he dropped it a bit and set it at 256 hp dead. Don't know how that sounds to you guys, but bejesus it feels damn good!!! :laugh: When I've scanned it I'll put the graph up.

hmmm - intercooler next I think - and then........

Cheers

John

Aussie dyno (Dyno Dynamics) and Aussie boost controller (Turbosmart) - the Brits must regret sending all those convicts (and the potential wealth of knowledge) that they "threw away" when they shipped those convicts here roughly 215 years ago!

:D:ermm:

I've noticed on the website that they actually list Autronic and APS!

Yep - I asked the workshop manager if they had connections in OZ and he said no - but he only uses the best stuff he can get his hands on so there you go! He designed the dyno cell around the Dyno Dynamics kit and it is an impressive set up.

Graph to follow!

John

:ermm: Cheers mate - can't take any credit really - I just nod and agree with some suggestions - the guys at Weston performance are boffins and the bloke who worked on mine has some kind of fetish for Nissan engines - he loves them!

they are going to quote me for a front mounted intercooler and some cold air ducting for the intake to bring the temperatures right down - and allow for a bit more boost... where's my wallet?

  • 3 weeks later...

I ran my SII yesterday at CRD. made 154kw atw with the restrictors still in the mufflers.

mods so far are:

*K&N Pod on a custon intake pipe

*profec A boost controller

*Advan split dump pipe

*X force 3" cat

*custom dual 2" cat-back wth twin resonators and cannon.

it's not the nicest graph in the world,but I reckon it's putting out decent power for an un-tuned car with a crappy EBC. will run it up again once it's copped a bit more work. am still thinking about just how far I want to go with the car.

Justin...

post-7670-1151305421.jpg

post-7670-1151305489.jpg

I would like to add a link to this thread in the "Stagea Diy's, How To's, & Fyi's" thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102808

And then unsticky this thread, any objections?

Hey guys, i have a genuine autech RS260 that i havent had a chance to get dynoed yet,

so far i have fitted a set of high flow manifolds and dump pipes and the rest of the system

to go with it which has made the boost jump from 7 to 14psi with out touching anything else,

i was wondering if anyone knows what sort of power these put out? I have an R32 with 220rwkw

and the 260 puts you back in your seat alot harder than even that does? Any ideas?

Stock power output should match an R33 GT-R as essentially that's what it is mechanically. As for performance, it should be slower than a stock GT-R (when it is a stock 260RS) as it is heavier...

Stock power output should match an R33 GT-R as essentially that's what it is mechanically. As for performance, it should be slower than a stock GT-R (when it is a stock 260RS) as it is heavier...

Thanks munch, i know the stock quarter times on a stock 33 gtr are 12.6, and a stock rs260 is 12.9, so there not alot slower for the weight difference, but with my exhaust mods and double the stock boost i would hope to see some improvement over stock power outputs. Any power listings for any of the high power jap cars always seems to say 206, which ive been told is an understatement even from factory, thats why i wondered what an accurate guess might be. I need to find time to get to a 4wd dyno, but as far as i know none are on my side of town. Can anyone suggest anywhere with a reliable 4wd dyno in adelaide?

Tangles could be your man (also in Adelaide), he may demand a ride in the 260 for the info though! Haha.

They're close 1/4 times, I would have thought there would be more difference, very interesting!

Cheers

Luke

well i put my stag on the 4WD dyno at SAS yesterday (Toymods Dyno Day), not too impressed with the results, but with the A/F ratios as bad as mine i cant expect much more. peak power was at 4500 RPM

here is the dyno sheet

02.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...