Stagea Dyno Results

[Sydneykid]

Thanks munch, i know the stock quarter times on a stock 33 gtr are 12.6, and a stock rs260 is 12.9, so there not alot slower for the weight difference, but with my exhaust mods and double the stock boost i would hope to see some improvement over stock power outputs. Any power listings for any of the high power jap cars always seems to say 206, which ive been told is an understatement even from factory, thats why i wondered what an accurate guess might be. I need to find time to get to a 4wd dyno, but as far as i know none are on my side of town. Can anyone suggest anywhere with a reliable 4wd dyno in adelaide?

The "stock" R33GTR is somewhat more "stock" than the 260RS. The 260RS has better exhaust from what I have seen and runs a coupla psi more boost.

cheers

Edited July 3, 2006 by Sydneykid

[EGA41T]

any ideas why my air fuel ratios are so rediculous?

[qikstagea]

probably for the same reason mine are. you could light my exhaust fumes. no idea. anyone?

[fergo308]

what type of dump pipe are you running? split,blended,or std? what else is done to the car?

where it runs really rich up top would make sense if you have an atmo BOV,and the majority of the curve makes sense if it's a std ecu on a car with the usual mods (exhaust,FMIC,etc).

mine has an exhaust,pod,and boost controller,and it doesn't run quite as rich as yours does,and makes more power. I would put it down to the intercooler,and any differences in our exhaust systems,particularly if you run a blended dump pipe,as they tend to run richer on cars with std ecus.

Justin...

[wolverine]

andy, can you list the mods. looks like the ecu is hitting R&R.

fergo, what difference would an atmo BOV make on WOT? as i understand it'll run pig rich when you close the throttle but i don't understand why it would run rich as you have described.

you know u need that powerFC now....

[66yostagea]

any ideas why my air fuel ratios are so rediculous?

I thought you got a new AFM? And it cured it.

I've just run two tanks full and averaged 151/2 per 100. Mostly tip toe stuff, but I live in very hilly area.

Got a Dfa to put in and thinking wide band O2 and after you mentioned AFM was considering that also.

Now i'm confused

Remember I'm new at this.

Edited July 3, 2006 by 66yostagea

[EGA41T]

i thought it was fixed after i changed the AFM but i think it was just a case of heaps of highway km's and mostly babying the car when i drove it during that tank of fuel.

mods are;

boost controller set to 10psi

GFB Stealth FX BOV

Front mount intercooler

split dump/engine pipe

5" catco metal inside cat with 3" reducers

BLITZ NUR Spec cat back exhaust

K&N panel filter

yeah i know i need it, but im a long way off from being able to afford it.

[fergo308]

fergo, what difference would an atmo BOV make on WOT? as i understand it'll run pig rich when you close the throttle but i don't understand why it would run rich as you have described.

that's exactly what i was referring to,right at the very end of the curve,where it the power tapers off quickly and it dips mega rich. he's lifted off the throttle at that point,and the bov has vented,causing it to sink into the 9's for mixture.

I agree,it needs a power fc to lean it off safely.

Justin...

[wolverine]

ahh ic

why was he lifting off then?

[Ska]

HOLY RICH AFR'S Batman! Wow!! I though a jaycar AFC thingy could fix that, or something like an SAFC(II)??

Why go out and spend big on a Power-FC when I would've thought a SAFC could do the same job and a quarter of the price?

[Spammeoff]

My AFR's are that rich or worse when I did Dyno full power runs. My car is standard, but I was running 'high' boost mode all the time. My max power was up closer to 7000rpm though, not 4500rpm. And my car uses obscene amounts of gas. I've got a wideband AF setup to install and get my head around exactly what my 'standard' mixtures are doing. If I run more boost, it misses when it hits 9psi, but I know it'll be 10:1 or so around there, so maybe its a rich misfire. Shouldn't be detonation I only run 98octane and 9psi so it would be hard.

Will be very interested to log some driving with the Innovate LC-1. Does it seem lots of Stagea's are this rich? Like 10:1 at top end. Nissan wouldn't do that, its outside all tuning theories I'd think.

[Sydneykid]

Does it seem lots of Stagea's are this rich? Like 10:1 at top end. Nissan wouldn't do that, its outside all tuning theories I'd think.

At standard boost they are rich (11 to 1)

Turn the boost up a bit and they go richer (10 to 1)

Turn the boost up a lot and they go megga rich (9.5 to 1)

Then they go R&R mapping (9 to 1)

It's normal, that's the way Nissan tuned it with safety in mind.

cheers

[Spammeoff]

At standard boost they are rich (11 to 1)

Turn the boost up a bit and they go richer (10 to 1)

Turn the boost up a lot and they go megga rich (9.5 to 1)

Then they go R&R mapping (9 to 1)

It's normal, that's the way Nissan tuned it with safety in mind.

cheers

Great Info!! Thats put my mind at ease, could the 10:1 cause a miss do you think? It works through it ok and rpm continues to climb, but I guess this could be as boost is dropping back to 7-8psi(due to pneumatic boost controller).

What does R&R stand for?

[EGA41T]

apart from the obvious, is there any difference between tuning your stag on a 2WD dyno compared to a 4WD dyno?

R&R = Rich and Retard

[MsG_ChRiS]

put the boost back to factory and see what happens ...

[fergo308]

apart from the obvious, is there any difference between tuning your stag on a 2WD dyno compared to a 4WD dyno?

how do you plan to tune on a 2wd dyno,when the car is 4wd? pulling out the relay will burn out your transfer's clutch packs. I wouldn't recommend that.

Justin...

p.s. Wolverine: because the power was already tapering off. no point in going any higher if it's making less power.

Edited July 4, 2006 by fergo308

[AlexCim]

remove the front drive shaft from the front diff then pull the shaft out of the transfer case.

[RS4Stagea]

Hi All,

I have 1997 RS4 (Auto)

- GCG HiFlow Turbo

- Hybrid FMIC

- Walbro 500hp intank Fuel Pump

- Turbosmart Eboost EBC 7psi 10psi 14psi

- Turbosmart FPR (Street)

- K&N Pod with cold air induction

On a Dynodynamics 4WD Dyno @ APC in Brisbane

203 kw @ all 4 wheels! 3rd gear :sorcerer:

made roughly 100kw @ 3000rpm

made roughly 200kw @ 6000rpm

Have no issues with factory ecu (maybe its chipped?)

Dont think I will bother with piggyback or aftermarket ecu's

The guys at APC rekon with a Haltech I could get in the 250AWKW+!

Need about $3k for that though....

Wade

[Ska]

Well done Wade!!

[FLYSLY]

That is an awesome result well done!

I would really love to know what mine will make?

I want to get it dynoed as is and then once i bolt on all the parts too see how much of a difference they will make.