Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there, just thought I'd put in a vid for you to all enjoy.....See below

http://pics.aus-cartalk.com/vicclub/Events.../videos/Brutus/

Also, I want to get my skyline happy at track days and was looking at puting an oil cooler in. I know there are HKS etc but they are rather expensive, due to the name perhaps???

Anyway, I know you can get Serck coolers which a lot of racecars use or the aluminium Permacool 'Rocket' coolers and they both have a good rep and they are half the price of the japanese coolers. My question is do any of you have experience with these coolers and know what sort of size I need.

The Serck I looked at was a 19 or 25 row with 12 guage fittings.

My car has mild mods but will be drivern HARD so I don't want it to get hot and go bang. Power is 200kw at rears and over 800nm torque. Runs low 12's in street trim but set up for circuit, hence big torque, mild power.

Any help, thoughts would be greatly appreciated

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52542-fun-vid-and-oil-cooler-questions/
Share on other sites

I think location is more important then size. Sure fit as big a cooler as you can squeeze in there, but a 19 row oil cooler is as big as i could fit in the front guard of my car whilst still having reasonable air flow.

You can have a cooler for $250, $120-150 for fittings and then $100 for lines and you are in business. If you want a remote filter then that adds another 4 fittings plus more line so count on it costing another $250-300.

Try Star Performance in Five Dock NSW. I have found them to offer the best pricing on good quality gear like Serck coolers and Speedflow fittings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...