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Overheating RB26 Silvia! What size is stock GTR radiator?

underground

By underground,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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underground Collaborator

underground

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Hey Guys,

My car is currently sitting until I can figure out how to solve my overheating issues...

I have a Nismo thermostat and a Fluidyne Radiator, along with (2) 12" electric pull fans...

I can't keep the RB26 cool for anything (Runs consistently 99-110 degrees C) . I think alot of it has to do with not enough air flow in the Silvia's engine bay...

Could anybody give me the stock GTR radiator sizing? I am going to have to call tomorrow and see if I can have a custom radiator made..

I need to find out what size radiators you GTR guys use so that I can have one made with similar surface area....

Thanks!

Chris

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RBsileighty Enthusiast

RBsileighty

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I don't know how you fit pull fans in there... my 20 in my S13 barely fit, so I have push fans. I'm running a S14 OEM KA radiator (with some a fair number of bent fins... should replace it soon), a Hybrid FMIC, and 2 High Performance low profile Perma Cool fans... they keep my temp in the 0-2 mark on the stock gauge (with KA thermocouple) when driving normally. When boosting it gets up to the half way (I think that's about 200-210F... same place where my KA operated)... but after a while it will cool back down to the 0-2 mark level again.

What is the humidity like in your area? I have noticed when the humidity gets really high where I am mine won't get below half way... but it doesn't get hotter. Run some DI water with no coolant for a couple of days to pull some of the grime out of your system (unless you've done this) and then take it to have a coolant system flush. There was some really nasty stuff that came out of mine when I did this to mine. Also be sure the system is properly bled. I also have a steel braided coolant line on the back of my turbo... tied it up and out of the way so it would stay away from the DP area b/c I'm sure that doesn't help coolant temps or the line's integrity.

Try those perma cool push fans vs the pull... mine are excellent and I've heard the same from others that have the same fans. I'm sure if you have a KA Fluidine, even if the GTR radiator is a bit larger than a stock KA radiator... you should be fine. Hopefully this helps a little.

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wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

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Yeah, the fans do have their shrouds...

ok given that the shrouds on the fans are in place...

does the front bar seal against the radiator bottom and sides, and is the rubber under the bonnet intact.

if it doesn't then 0.6mm aluminium sheeting cut and fitted on all sides will seal it up and give you some extra efficiency. i spent a few hours on mine for something to do as the undertray had been cut away. there are some commercially available top radiator guides. it will be cheaper than replacing the radiator if it works, if it doesn't you should have it anyway so not a lot to lose either way.

otherwise good luck with the new radiator...if someone can tell you the correct size.

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underground Collaborator

underground

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I'd like to get it in the 180 degree range, as I've noticed this is where the motor is most efficient on the track... this has also been confirmed by Tilbrook Auto and Dyno..

I think the problem is simply lack of airflow to the radiator.... I think some ducting between the FMIC and radiator, as well as the addition of another 12" push fan, will bring my temps where I need them...

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sewid Grand Master

sewid

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Can I add some push fans? and run push and pulls together?

This is not very efficient and there is a chance you will actually lose airflow by doing it due to the airflow being intefered by the second fan.

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underground Collaborator

underground

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This is not very efficient and there is a chance you will actually lose airflow by doing it due to the airflow being intefered by the second fan.

Well, its working so far... And I'm going to add another pusher... to make 4 fans total...

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sewid Grand Master

sewid

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Well, today I added a 12" push fan to the front of my radiator, to my already (2) pull fans on the back side..

This decreased my temperatures nearly 30 degress farenheit..

My temps are now holding steady at 195-200 degrees farenheit, even under boost..

This is still hotter than I'd prefer.. I'd like to get it in the 180 degree range, as I've noticed this is where the motor is most efficient on the track... this has also been confirmed by Tilbrook Auto and Dyno..

I think the problem is simply lack of airflow to the radiator.... I think some ducting between the FMIC and radiator, as well as the addition of another 12" push fan, will bring my temps where I need them...

I could be wrong though :P

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underground Collaborator

underground

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Didn't mean to come off like an ass there man...

I was told the same thing, using push and pull fans together wont add anything in terms of a solution...

However, I dont believe anything until I test it first... And I'm glad I did, because I'm one step closer to finding the cure....

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