Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So how many N1 were sold...no f**king idea but as far as the true enthusiast are concern the true N1s were the Race Spec ones sold in 1991. 

nicely researched answer there :(

But personally its the Vspec II N1s that are the pick of the bunch because they had the larger tyres 245/45/17s

nicely researched answer there :cheers:

But personally its the Vspec II N1s that are the pick of the bunch because they had the larger tyres 245/45/17s

Dunc you know which "true" N1s he's talking about?... he's talking about the 55mil yen homologation ones... ab-so-****in-lutely the ultimate R32 GT-R from factory. But for my money I'd agree with you, Vspec II for sure :aroused:
Ok I know its not hard to do but you've REALLY confused me with the whole R33 N1 number calculation, i was under the impression they only were made in 1995? Are you saying that 6551 R33 N1s were made?
Burto... aaaah.... I'm still not convinced the number was that high. I thought that number was for total GT-R units made in 1995... or something like that.

In just about all of the GT-R Magazines they list the first and last chassis number for each model and also build numbers for 32 33 and 34 and all it has for R33 GTR V-spec is that 6,551 were built and this includes N1 models so it doesn't actually have a seperate figure it does for r32 with 228 N1's and R34 with 45 N1's.

Ok I know its not hard to do but you've REALLY confused me with the whole R33 N1 number calculation, i was under the impression they only were made in 1995?  Are you saying that 6551 R33 N1s were made?

YES according to these books and for the V-Spec and V-Spec II its another set of numbers...if you like I will scan them up tonight.

I need to remain the unanimous informer...
Does everyone vote Troy the unanimous informer?

...everybody? Ok... it's unanimous then...

Troy we all voted that you should be SAU's "unanimous informer"... :rofl: :Owned:

Btw, the "JN1GAPR33" chassis code is for the 100 GT-Rs that were officially sold in the UK.

Dont think any GTR or GTS-T came with chrome headlights. Only 4 Door R33 Non-Turbo?!?

hey is talking about the surrounds inside the headlight, series one are black and the surrounds on series 2 gtrs are definetly chrome (or shiny stuff that the reflectors are made of)

have a look at two side by side and you will see, but it isnt something you would notice from a distance or a quick glance :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...