Am I running too rich, is std ECU 2 blame 'coz I up'd boost?

[superspit]

ANSWERED!! hey skliner's, wsup.....eh, never mind...

anyways, question.

My car (look to the left) leaves a lot of black, sooty powder around the zort pipe, and soot even seems to congruate around the reear bumper every couple of days, (being an ultra-white duco, this can be easily seen).

My car's zorst likes to pop, pop away when foots comes of the gas (at some speed), and stinks of petrol after a lively (not crazy) drive.

Fuel economy is really not too bad, ($50 get almost 400 km, if used politely),

but power (boost) seems to come on just a little slowerer than I'd like(but always reads 11-12pissants, blead), and pickup is not completely there (all the time). On somedays, the thing's an absolute rocket, others, just not quite bumping that beautiful curve,(I'm fussy)!!

Umm.......question: I have a standard ECU (so I'm told), is there any way to have my mechanic safely check for richness(without a dyno if poss) and adjust the mixture (like my old charger....ok ok, I know they're different machines!!) ....or do I have to bite that ###king bullet and go ECU upgrade and dyno (i don't want this though!!). I want to keep the car as standard as poss. Also, I realise that if u up da boost then you may have to do other stuff aswell?? BUT, this entire thread is based on me thinking that I'm running 'rich', ......what do u think?

Anyways...sorry about the length...the amount of words used here!!

Mark. :Paranoid:

[cameron]

Yes if theirs lots of black smoke/soot your car is running rich.

Your carnt contol the mixture via the standard ecu, but you can buy a SAFC II to adjust the fuel or go the full apexi power FC ecu. The popping is just backfire from running rich and the unburnt fumes are igniting. - Nuthing to major, but this can cause fowling of the plugs.

Have you checked your fuel filter ? Might be cloged and causing the boost problem (no response)

Have you checked for a bigger fuel pump becuase if you have then thats a good thing, but not for your fuel its chewing lots and lots of fuel. - Expensive, You could put it on a dyno and check the A/f ratio's to see how rich its running then that can give you an idea on what you can do next.

Jun

[Duncan]

I think your car is missing a cat. Have a look at that as well

Yes the stock ECU tends to run on the rich side with basic mods, but thats kinda nice, it keeps your engine healthy

[Angry]

yea i have the same problem for now .. i'm just saving up for an ecu change .. i get 450 to about 60bucks of fuel ..out of an rb20 .. so ur doing alright

[superspit]

Yes if theirs lots of black smoke/soot your car is running rich.

 

Your carnt contol the mixture via the standard ecu, but you can buy a SAFC II to adjust the fuel or go the full apexi power FC ecu. The popping is just backfire from running rich and the unburnt fumes are igniting. - Nuthing to major, but this can cause fowling of the plugs.

 

Have you checked your fuel filter ? Might be cloged and causing the boost problem (no response)

 

Have you checked for a bigger fuel pump becuase if you have then thats a good thing, but not for your fuel its chewing lots and lots of fuel. - Expensive, You could put it on a dyno and check the A/f ratio's to see how rich its running then that can give you an idea on what you can do next.

 

Jun

Hey Cam!

bummer that I just can't turn a mixture screw like on older machines (but that may be a good thing!!)

I've just replaced the fuel filter (admittedly, a cheap one that looks exactly the same....but wouldn't a bad/restrictive filter tend to lean things out?)

Rich could be Fouling plugs hey? mmmmm, could that cause lower power, without missing?

Pretty sure Cameron that fuel pump is OEM (?)

You could put it on a dyno and check the A/f ratio's to see how rich its running then that can give you an idea on what you can do next....good idea, I am thinking (you are thinking).

As long as u guys don't think I'll hurt the motor, I'll put up with it!

Unless modded 'puters are 100% legal (?) I'll go without, for now!!

Much to think about there is....mmmmmmmm

Thanks mate!

PS. I DO HAVE A CAT CONVERTER!! yeah, I do!! (this message not to Cameron!)

[DRFTR33]

when you up the boost with the standard ecu it retards your ignition timing and dumps fuel. that popping sound you are hearing is acually a backfire caused by the retarded ignition timing. to counter this you have to raise your base ignition timing to 20 degrees befor top dead centre.

hope this was helpfull and if you have the cash buy a power FC

[superspit]

when you up the boost with the standard ecu it retards your ignition timing and dumps fuel. that popping sound you are hearing is acually a backfire caused by the retarded ignition timing. to counter this you have to raise your base ignition timing to 20 degrees befor top dead centre.

hope this was helpfull and if you have the cash buy a power FC

A HA!! Base timing!!.....I remember my mechanic telling me that my 'base timing was set at normal/standard?? So if I ask him to raise it to some figure (20 degrees according to my friend DRFTR33), this will help?

Thankyou.

ps. if I dropped the boost a litttle, say 1 to 1.5 pissants, would that help?

[DRFTR33]

yeah standard ignition timing is 15 degrees befor top dead center. if your going over standard boost expecialy with the series 1 ecu it will do exacly what you describe. dont worry your not the only one suffering from this problem their are heaps of people driving around who havnt got a clue that there is anything wrong. if you are running more boost i also sugest that you run colder plugs. i recomend NGK iraway 7s. those plugs and your ignition timing set up right will make it go like a scalded cat

[superspit]

yeah standard ignition timing is 15 degrees befor top dead center. if your going over standard boost expecialy with the series 1 ecu it will do exacly what you describe. dont worry your not the only one suffering from this problem their are heaps of people driving around who havnt got a clue that there is anything wrong. if you are running more boost i also sugest that you run colder plugs. i recomend NGK iraway 7s. those plugs and your ignition timing set up right will make it go like a scalded cat

I'm glad I found you on the forums tonite D33!

As I really don't want a new computer, and at my boost levels (11-12 pissants), an increase in base timing (advance) will help me?..therefore with my current set-up, I don't need a new computer either, just timing?? (woo-hoo, cool).

I recently spent $150 on apparantly 'super dooper plugs', so I'll stick with those (but check them anyways).

Have I got this right so far. ??

Therefore, if I dropped the boost a little, this could help me too!????

thanx man.

[DRFTR33]

yeah that will fix your problem but it will never be as good as a power FC and your new plugs should be fine as long as they are of a colder heat range to standard. i also own a 95 r33 and at first i was over looking after market engine management but i can tell you it is worth every cent

[DRFTR33]

you will still need to advance the ignition timing even if you drop the boost a bit you just wont need to advance it as much . when you deside how much boost you want to run just set up your ignition timing and your all set. you will know if you go to far because you will get detonation( which is bad)

[superspit]

yeah that will fix your problem but it will never be as good as a power FC and your new plugs should be fine as long as they are of a colder heat range to standard. i also own a 95 r33 and at first i was over looking after market engine management but i can tell you it is worth every cent

I accept this reasoning, and am very grateful.

Just one other question for you D33, i expect that the mechanic will be twisting that silver thang at the front of the engine to change the timing.?

[cameron]

As I really don't want a new computer, and at my boost levels (11-12 pissants), an increase in base timing (advance) will help me?..therefore with my current set-up, I don't need a new computer either, just timing?? (woo-hoo, cool).

Just be careful advancing the timing as you can kill your engine.

Make sure you put it on a dyno after you get your timing advanced or while its being done, to make sure its running 100% normal and not leaning out and melting ringlands.

It might be worth wile saving up $1100 in and getting a power fc and getting it tuned safely, it beats the hell out of a melted piston :uhh: - expensive rebuild.

Jun

[superspit]

Just be careful advancing the timing as you can kill your engine.

 

Make sure you put it on a dyno after you get your timing advanced or while its being done, to make sure its running 100% normal and not leaning out and melting ringlands.

 

It might be worth wile saving up $1100 in and getting a power fc and getting it tuned safely, it beats the hell out of a melted piston :uhh: - expensive rebuild.

 

Jun

understood! Thankyou!!

[superspit]

Just be careful advancing the timing as you can kill your engine.

 

Make sure you put it on a dyno after you get your timing advanced or while its being done, to make sure its running 100% normal and not leaning out and melting ringlands.

 

It might be worth wile saving up $1100 in and getting a power fc and getting it tuned safely, it beats the hell out of a melted piston :uhh: - expensive rebuild.

 

Jun

understood! Thankyou!! it's not so much the money Cam, just the legal issues I'd like to avoid any more of.

[cameron]

I accept this reasoning, and am very grateful.

Just one other question for you D33, i expect that the mechanic will be twisting that silver thang at the front of the engine to change the timing.?

Yep,

Its called a Crank Angle Sensor aka CAS by changing this it can vary the way your cam shaft lifts your valve's etc: hence the name timing, meaning the time in which the cam shafts spin open & close valves.

By advancing you'r timing you can get considerable power gains to a certain extent intil you start to loose power.

Detination is not always herd by the human ear so be careful as i said.

Jun

Beat ya to it DRFTR33

[DRFTR33]

yeah that silver thing on the timing cover is your cam angle sensor which runs off your exhaust camshaft it basicly tells the ecu when to fire each coil and that is what your mechanic will be adjusting. and it is a really good idea to dyno your car afterwards because you will be able to see if anything isnt quite right. at least youll be able to see you power output

[superspit]

Yep,

 

Its called a Crank Angle Sensor aka CAS by changing this it can vary the way your cam shaft lifts your valve's etc: hence the name timing, meaning the time in which the cam shafts spin open & close valves.

 

Detination is not always herd by the human ear so be careful as i said.

lets say I want to increase it by 5 degrees (base 15 degrees then advanced to 20 degrees), would I rotate clockwise in millimeters? (just to give me an idea of how much of a move would give how much adjustment in degrees), then take her for a spin?

[cameron]

I'm not a 100% sure but you turn it anti-clock wise to advance on the cas, but clock wise on a adjustable cam gear (which you dont have) Some one Correct Me please.

Use a protractor if you dont have anything and turn it a couple of Deg say 2 and take it for a spin. If your turn it too far you will loose power and your car will go no were so find the sweet spot.

*********************************************************

Remember it can kill your engine so be carful playing with your cas

Jun

[mickr33]

Mark it is a fact once the boost is increased the standard ecu makes the car run rich. I had the very same ploblem of it sometimes running good and sometimes not. I thought plugs, coils etc etc. But for the mods you have "trust me" a SAFC is the way to go. I now have much better fuel economy and the power delivery is mmmmmmmmmmmm. So for a total cost of around 400 for an SAFC and a further 150 ish to install and tune it is a much cheaper alternative to a power fc. For me anyway the SAFC mod was the best money spent on my car so far.