Am I running too rich, is std ECU 2 blame 'coz I up'd boost?

[DRFTR33]

to advance the timing turn the cam angle sensor anti clockwise i cant give you an exact measurment of how far to move it but tri it so the washers on the bolts holding it in are just touching where the slots end ( i hope that made sence

[DRFTR33]

the problem with SAFC is you cant control the ignition curve. but dont get me wrong they are a very good product. nothing beats power FC

[superspit]

I'm not a 100% sure but you turn it anti-clock wise to advance on the cas, but clock wise on a adjustable cam gear (which you dont have) Some one Correct Me please.

 

Use a protractor if you dont have anything and turn it a couple of Deg say 2 and take it for a spin. If your turn it too far you will loose power and your car will go no were so find the sweet spot. 

 

*********************************************************

        Remember it can kill your engine so be carful playing with your cas

 

 

Jun

thanks Cam, I'll standby on that 'correction' you requested. But sounds resonable,...surely if I texta marked my 'base' timing, then anti-clocked my cas by just 2 degrees (protracted), I couldn't do any damage. (I'd be gentle)...or maybe just ge t done by my mech.

[mickr33]

True Adam nothing beats the power FC, but with the standard turbo and cooler and just the exhaust and some boost i couldn't justify the cost of a power FC if im not doing anymore mods.

[superspit]

to advance the timing turn the cam angle sensor anti clockwise i cant give you an exact measurment of how far to move it but tri it so the washers on the bolts holding it in are just touching where the slots end ( i hope that made sence

yes mate, I just ran out for a look, makes sense.

[cameron]

Yep mark your original timing spot.

Keep the boost reasonable eg: under 12psi

Take it for a strap and if it doesnt change then take it too mechanic. Dont want to risk taking your self to see the bank and getting money for a rebuild

Jun

[superspit]

Yep mark your original timing spot. 

 

Keep the boost reasonable eg: under 12psi

 

Take it for a strap and if it doesnt change then take it too mechanic. Dont want to risk taking your self to see the bank and getting money for a rebuild

 

Jun

roger that Cameron, I'll keep that boost under 12 pissants, go anti-clock on my cas by 2, go for a strap, see what happens! (I'll be careful, don't want to go back to the bank either!

[DRFTR33]

youll be alright just listen for the knocking sound. but it probably is best for you to take it to your mechanic. if you were in the canberra area id tell you to drop in and i could do it for you right now

[superspit]

youll be alright just listen for the knocking sound. but it probably is best for you to take it to your mechanic. if you were in the canberra area id tell you to drop in and i could do it for you right now

ah, you're ace! so are the rest of the skliner's here tonite!

[cameron]

youll be alright just listen for the knocking sound

Sounds like a rattling/jingling of car key's. Hard to explain!:headspin:

Let me know how it goes If your not back in 10 mins i know your walking home :wassup: :jk:

Jun

[Guest Robo's]

Just buy the first version of the SAFC for $300. Tuning is very easy!! Basically you just pull out fuel accross the rev range but do it on a dyno. Not only will your car be more econimical you will get a nice increase in power.

[superspit]

Sounds like a rattling/jingling of car key's. Hard to explain!:headspin: 

 

Let me know how it goes If your not back in 10 mins i know your walking home :wassup: :jk: 

 

 

Jun

don't worry bro, I'm hittin the sack, tmrw is a new day though!!

later Cam.

[superspit]

Just buy the first version of the SAFC for $300.  Tuning is very easy!!  Basically you just pull out fuel accross the rev range but do it on a dyno.  Not only will your car be more econimical you will get a nice increase in power.

good price there, thanx Robo's.

[superspit]

Hey! I tried earlier tonite to adjust the cas (loosened the 3 bolts), as per what I'd said I would do earlier in this thread, and......I couldn't even budge it!! I was very cautious about the whole attempt, but the best I could manage, without the fear of breaking something) was a little forward movement ie.1-2 mm, but no rotational movement!!

I didn't want tobang it or anything, so I left it (did it bck up)..

Also Skliner's, I was told just before by some other experienced GTR/GTSt owner's that, quote...."it is a ridiculous concept that u'd want to advance timing when upping boost, it should be retarded if anything, and it won't even fix the over rich state u r presently in!!"..unquote. I understand the mixture part not being assisted (Band-aided maybe?)

CONFUSED i am!!

I am now thinking that it would be too good to be true, that some simple and safely done 'advancement' would overcome my present issues (lack of pull in higher gears, ace down low)....could someone please explain to me the basic concept of advancing/retarding the ignition in my car, for my particular issue(arguement FOR and AGAINST type thing?..anyways..

Thanx Skliner's, (DRFTR33, Cam etc...come back if u can?)

Mark

[siksII]

hey, i wont explain your issues, but with the CAS it probably wont budge because your not pushing hard enough...

try and use a piece of timber against the cas, and lightly tap the other end with a hammer to try and budge it, it will most probably move if u do this.

[cameron]

How did it go make any difference ?

Basically you said you were loosing power, this could because of your timing by advancing it you should gain power. - But advancing it with lots of boost is a silly idea correct. - I can cause detination. Also the standard ecu retards the ignition timing on hot days to stop detination so that may also be why you are loosing power. - Cooling system eg front mount intercooler if you dont have one this would be the first step I'd take.

Its alot easier to buy a apexi power FC ecu and tune the timing via that. More economical and you can moniter detination via the hand controler.

Its upto you, In my opinion i'd just leave it and do the basic modifications eg: exhaust, pod, dump pipe, intercooler and 11 psi boost. This way you will gain power and keep everything safe, inlet temps etc. - If you already havn't

Jun

[DRFTR33]

the people who told you that it is rediculous to advance your timing have no idea what they are talking about

it is a built in safty feature in the standard ecu to retard the timing when you up the boost, but it doesnt just do it alittle bit like what you want, it does it alot

to combat the ecu retarding the timing to much you advance your base timing so it cancels it out to an extent

sometimes the crank angle sensors can be hard to turn but dont hit it with anything just undo the bolts a little more and pull it towards you and then it should come unstuck

[superspit]

How did it go make any difference ?

 

Basically you said you were loosing power, this could because of your timing by advancing it you should gain power. - But advancing it with lots of boost is a silly idea correct. - I can cause detination. Also the standard ecu retards the ignition timing on hot days to stop detination so that may also be why you are loosing power. - Cooling system eg front mount intercooler if you dont have one this would be the first step I'd take.

 

Its alot easier to buy a apexi power FC ecu and tune the timing via that. More economical and you can moniter detination via the hand controler.

 

Its upto you, In my opinion i'd just leave it and do the basic modifications eg: exhaust, pod, dump pipe, intercooler and 11 psi boost. This way you will gain power and keep everything safe, inlet temps etc. - If you already havn't

 

Jun

Hey Cam, yeah, I just read DRFTR33 latest and yours, interesting stuff.

I couldn't actually do anything last nite cause I couldn't even get my CAS to budge (I was probably being 'over-careful', I'm not exactly weak!!).

So yeah, tonite I'll use a little more force, and give it a little twist, then monitor what's going on.

My car is modded quite extensively, the only thing I had to lose was the boost controler, police didn't like it in one of my many 'pull-overs!!'

Got POD, 4inch stainless zorst, highflow cat, about $4000 in racing suspension......and the standard ECU (which I must keep!!!).

I trust u guys, and I'm gunna do it then let u know what I find!!

Thanx Guys,

Mark.

[superspit]

Ok, this thread's responses have taught me a couple of things!

Std ECU does run rich, naturally, especially with increased boost.

Therefore, I'd have to replace ECU to fix this issue, properly.

Just 1 degree advance in timing vastly improves the 2-3rd gear acceleration. (doesn't 'bog-down' like before, as much)

Just a degree or 2 more can add even more performance, and a nice 'rattle' sound.

(don't worry Cam and DFTR33, I didn't lunch the motor, thankyou!!)

So I'm at apprx 1 degree advance from 'base-time', and I'm happy with that, cost me nothing to do, and it 'seems' quite safe.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now, should I spend money on......WOLF 3D ECU, SAFC (add-on ?), or front mount IC.

I'm in Melbourne, which of these are ILLEGAL, and if they are, can I get an 'engineer's certificate' to stay safe?

Thankyou.

[cameron]

I'd get a frontmount intercooler to keep the inlet temps down so when you run higher boost you arent at more risk of damaging your engine.

After that i'd go Power FC its plug & play and user friendly. Wolf 3D are plug and play aswel but you ca get pfc & h/c for $1150 atm.

Then get it tuned properly.

Jun