Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I was thinking of buying a R33 non turbo 1995 or 96 model. What are the prices im looking at for a good condition one? Im thinking around the 15,000 mark?

And has anyone had experiance with them at all, like are they a good enough car and ok power. Im just 18 and i cant have a turbo car, so this seems like a good idea,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52689-r33-gts-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

If you get one make sure it is manual no exceptions and you are only 18 so it is a very wise decision to go for non turbo.

Cheaper insurace and less hassles with turbos being made to go faster so you kill your self...........

People could say dont buy a GTS-t as they are slugs compared to GTR's but we dont, we dont drive GTR's because of cost to buy and insurance so use the same rule.

My girlfriend bought a series 2 NA auto R33... excelent condition, for 18k about a year ago.... its a very reliably car, probably about the same speed as say a holden 3.8ltre v6 (VR/VS/VT etc..) so not SLOW but not super quick...

Only thing she has spent money on is service every 5-10k 50-100$, petrol, insurance and rego...

good idea not going for a turbo car, they cost too much to maintain/mod and insurance is a killer

i got a na 33. i rekon you'll get bored of it hey. Drivin around in it looks good, but u do tend to get alotta WRX's+ other lines+ silvias+ 180sx, just abt any other sports car, wantin to drag. I got bored of my in abt 2 months. Its a great car to start with but i wouldnt be surprised if u start lookin into a turbo a couple of months after.

again... very reliable car and you should have no problems. Not uber quick, but neither are most things around that price level. 145kw isn't anything to be sneezed out, but I guess as all cars get more and more powerful over the years can start looking a bit slower in comparison. The weight will be the same as any commodore, camry, or magna out there - and that is really what you should be comparing it against. It has the sporty looks, but the practicality of many of those other cars.

I would say actually $15k is the upper end, as there is not massive demand you can get a goodie for around $12k these days.

My mate got a manual GTS4 for $14k and that was about the only car that actually looked to have a *genuine* 70,000km on it or so (no scratches, no wears in any of the trims, etc). No problems whatsoever and he is very happy with it.

you'd be better off buying a turbo in the first place. could always just turn the boost right down and pretend it's an na :)

and aren't all gts4's turbos? rb20det's...

as said above the gts are to be compared with falcons, commodores etc. on performance... however the skyline looks 100x better :)

get a Silvia really fun car

I think u cound b ok with a Turbo Silvia 2L Sr20 or get a non turbo like me As for insurances it bullshit non turbos save u money i got Quotes on Silvia Q non turbo and Silvia K Turbo differents was $30

Insurances is HIGH CAUSE it is a IMPORTED CAR not that it is Turbo

I love Sr20's there sick as I have a Mate Selling a Silvia Q club if u want me to give u his MSN or number PM me it really well looked after he just Droped a New Motor in it Same as my one Just Blue not Silver

If you are going for a NA, make sure you get a GTS25 and not the GTS, the 25 has the 2.5L RB25DE engine, 147kw/~200hp whereas the GTS has the RB20E with 100kw/~130hp of SOHC 2L power!

The GTS is very underpowered for the weight of the car, but the GTS25 is about on par with 6cyl Commodores (~150kw from memory) and is lighter.

The R33 GTS4 is essentially a GTS25 with 4wd, but a bit less power at the wheels due to drive train losses.

are the gts models eligible for import? i thought they fell under the power to weight ratio allowed by dotars.

therefore all the non turbo r33's you see driving round are rb25de's

get a gts4 then when you get bored of the N/A you can drop an rb26 into it for some awd tt fun :cheers::D;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...