Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying a r33 gtst

ApleX

By ApleX,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

ApleX Proficient

ApleX

Posted
Posted

hey everyone, i just joined and though i would ask a couple of questions.

Im about to buy a r33 gtst '93 and was wondering if anyone has bought one lately, is there anything that i need to have a close look at? any factory faults?

also its totally stock and i wanna get a turbo timer, where should i go? this is my first turbo car, so i dont know any performance workshops either. any ideas ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52734-buying-a-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites
arm85 Community Regular

arm85

Posted
Posted

Good desicion mate, I bought myself a '93 R33 bout a month ago and it was the best desicion i have made, the best advise I or anyone can give you is read as much as you can on the model you want, inspect as many cars as you can and ask many questions, sooner or later you will learn to spot a good car froma lemon, good luck mate and happy hunting!

zakalwe Contributor

zakalwe

Posted
Posted
Hey everyone, I just joined and though I would ask a couple of questions.

I'm about to buy a r33 gtst '93 and was wondering if anyone has bought one lately, is there anything that i need to have a close look at? any factory faults?

Also it's totally stock and I wanna get a turbo timer, where should I go? This is my first turbo car, so i dont know any performance workshops either. any ideas ?

Merli's guide to buying a used Skyline is really, really useful. I forget if he mentioned it but the silicon filled radius rod bushes are often shot & should be replaced ~$250.

Look at & drive as many cars as you can, you'll soon be able to separate the dogs from the contenders! If a prospect needs any work, cost it out before making an offer - I just bought an R33 with 'a little scratch' on it, well $1400 later it looks ace but I've painted both rear quarters & both bars!

I'm no fan of Turbo Timers - all you need to do is drive quietly for a few minutes before you turn it off, or idle it for a minute. My previous car (VL T) had 200,000km on it and still ran fine with no issues when I sold it, no turbo timers needed. Spend your money on an excellent alarm!

cheers

Z

r33skylinegtst Mentor

r33skylinegtst

Posted
Posted

Just a word of advice. I bought my '96 R33 GTS-t a few months back, and even though it was in very good condition when i bought it, and one of the better ones i looked at, it's first service still cost me close to $1400. ALWAYS budget for the unexpected, especially considering the '93 models are going on 12 years old... You can't really be sure about a car until you have a decent mechanic give it a close look over.

Spook's_Skyline Mentor

Spook's_Skyline

Posted
Posted

just get it checked out first by someone u trust

we got a heap of minor problems fixed by the dealer before we took the car away

saved us heaps for minimal outlay (i think it cost 75 bux to get the car inspected)

ud be completely mad not to get it done

CroatianDlite Collaborator

CroatianDlite

Posted
Posted

put it in sunlight DIRECT sunlight and check out the paint

under the doors check for clamp marks to see if its been in an accident.

check under the boot lining - if its been in a rear ender there will be clear evidence, cuaz the bottom of the boot isnt flat and its difficult to ge tit spot on after its been damaged. etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...