Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I have owned my R32 GTST for a couple of years now and have decided its time for a upgrade. I have seen around the place people talking about the conversion to a RB30det and this has sparked my interest.

I am unsure where to start this project and how much its going to cost me if I am looking at producing up to 300rwkw, will I need forgies and rods, what about the gear box and transmission will they hold up under that kind of power?

If anyone can point me in the right direction to start this project that would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52818-where-to-start-rb30det-project/
Share on other sites

Picking your self up a R32 RB25DE and dropping a set of forgy's in it is a easy swap.

You don't have to worry about the extra 38-40mm deck height that fouls the bonnet.

BUT.. if you are after a really tough street car then the rb30det can't be beaten.

Thats if you are willing to put up with the few extra hassles getting it in there.

Its an expensive change over as you can't simply drop the 30det in and expect it to run.

You will also need an ECU and it will have to be tuned.

For a simple buildup with forged pistons, a rebuilt head and mild port/polish expect close to $6000.

Then you will need all the little extra's that add up very quickly - Heater/radiator/plenum water hoses ~$400, thermostat ~$50, fan belts ~$50... the list goes on.. :P

With turbo, injectors, ecu etc expect to spend around $10,000-$12,000

I have had engine building experience from my kingswood days, is this type of project something that I could take on and do myself or are the tolerances to tight that it would be better of performed by a qualified tuning shop, maybe someone could recommend one here in Melbourne that has experience in these engines before?

If you have built engines before you would have used a plastiguage.. maybe it was called something else.

In short you basically you shove it in between the two bearing surfaces and torque it up.

You then read what the clearance is.. If it is within spec you are fine if it isn't you need different bearings to bring the clearance within spec.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...