Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah 18s will fit fine... just make sure the offset is right.

the one im selling has 18x10s on the rear with 235s stretched over them :D and they have a huge spacer on em.

but of course the guards are rolled and the wheels have neg camber so that helps i spose :) altho without the spacers they might fit anyway.

If you want to adjust you neg camber to accomodate some bigger wheels I have organised a group buy of Adjustable Rear Upper Links for $225 for a set. Im putting some on my car so I can eventually have white powder coated R33 GTR wheels in nice n tight :D ooo yeah baby...

JK

+40 offset is fine dude, that's more like FF car offsets. remember people, the smaller the number is for the offset, the more the rim sticks out. so very few cars can have 0 offset without flares. only thing is +40mm offset wont clear bigger brake calipers, but at least you can have a 8 or 9 inch wheel under standard guards...try go for +35 or less for 8 inch wheels to give that flush look :D

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to resurrect this thread,

but I'm once again buying new rims...

I won't say what, all I'll say is this...

Dual PCD : 4x114.3 & 5x114.3

Front : 225/40/18 18x8J, offset 23

Rear : 245/35/18 18x9J, offset 35

Obviously the PCD is correct, (duh)

the rears are fine I'm sure, but I do query the fronts, 8" wide and 23 offset? can anyone tell me how that would turn out?

...so I won't catch superAIDS if I put 8inch wide +23 offset? with stock front guards? they are slightly lipped though, by saying lipped i mean i have tucked the lip up on the inside of the guard...

...I'm excited about this, are you?

My Cefiro has 17x8 with 225 on the front and 265 on the rear. I think the offset is +41 [but I may be wrong... it's been a while since I got them and I'm not entirely sure]. I'm running R33 brakes all around and have loads of clearance without resorting to using spacers.

The fronts sit nicely in the guard and no clearance issues. The rears do stick out quick a lot... I have adjustable camber kit on the back and am running quite a lot of camber on there, and even so the wheels do stick out about half an inch at the top. I had to lift up the coilovers to nearly maximum height to give enough clearance and stop scuffing when the car bottoms out.

Will post a pic up soon as I get my car back from the autoelectrician...

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It might be fine. I was just saying that I wouldn't trust it without testing it.
    • Traction wasn't bad, l couldn't give it everything off the line but was able to go WOT about half a second after rolling - good for NZ drag strips.   Like one run I did a 1.96 60ft and pretty sure I was on for a 12.4 but lifted early as I was on a 12.5 dial in, and still won haha 
    • Nice one! I was going to take mine down to SMSP drags one Weds night. I'd love to compare it with my GTR which did a 12.3. The bum-dyno in the 335i says its quicker.   How was the traction @Lithium?
    • AFAIK I've seen other people recommend using the back of the balance tube as well. Andre Simon from HPA at least. I can't imagine it being that far off from ideal even if it was only used to drive a boost gauge from the factory.
    • Hi All, New member here, I've joined to help my son with an issue that is truly doing our heads in. I'll start with a bit of an overview. Chris carried out some modifications to the engine to try and extract just a little extra power out of the motor and make it a bit more efficient. Previous to this work, the car already had an upgraded exhaust, increased boost up to 14psi, modified standard turbo to metal impellers and slightly oversized, upgraded fuel pump, been dyno-tuned at JEM, and some other bits n bobs like coil packs etc. Before the current mods it was making 236rwkw at 14psi but after the new mods it now makes 209rwkw at 14psi. The work he carried out is as follows, timing belt service, water pump replacement, return to sump radium catch can, had oem head rebuilt and machined 0.2mm, fitted Athena cut ring head gasket 1.2mm thick, arp 2000 head studs, added rear prp head drain, added an external wastegate 40mm turbosmart welded off the stock manifold and plumbed back into a 3in dump. The car has been on the dyno and apparently the ignition is working, fuel flow and fuel pressure is fine, injectors are fine, spark plugs are working fine, Maf is working, O2 sensor is working, TPs sensor is working, VCT is working, CAS is working, boost leak test showed no boost leaks, compression test first crank cold 135psi and got to 150psi across all cylinders once cranking, timing is confirmed at tdc with a dial gauge and the cam dots line up, no blockages in intercoolerm throttle body or pre-turbo intake, no blockages in exhaust, cat conveter or down pipe, turbo looks fine and spins and wastegate looks fine and is new. Soz for all the detail but after all this, it has been in 3 times for dyno and each time comes back stating it's not going to make power. After the first (or second, can't remember now) trip to dyno we did find the timing out by one tooth and this improved things, but it is still well down. Does anyone have any ideas?  Any replies much appreciated as we're just not sure of which direction to take this. Regards Rob (Chris's Dad).
×
×
  • Create New...