Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a chance yesterday to put the Stagea up on the hoist for half an hour and have a look around. I will post up some pictures on Monday, I left the camera in the workshop. Some things I noticed;

The front shocks look to be the same as R33 GTR, as is the rest of the front suspension

The rear shocks look to be the same as R33 GTST (eye at the bottom)

No HICAS, yahooooo

The front stabiliser bar is 22 mm hollow, like an R33 GTR.

I am fitting a 24 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNF27XZ)

The rear bar is 19 mm and solid, like an R33 GTS

I am fitting a 22 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNR11XZ)

The front caster bushes are the same as R33 GTR, it definitely needs mores caster (it was getting the front end wanders at 170 kph)

I am fitting some Whiteline adjustable polyurethane bushes and adding about 2 degrees positive caster (part # KCA332).

Ours sits a little rear down (maybe carried stuff in the back a lot)

Has around 2 degrees negative camber, which is more than the standard adjusters can remove

So I am fitting some adjustable Whiteline bushes in the rear upper arms (Part #KCA347).

The front looks OK for camber, should have a little negative when I lower it.

I didn't remove the shocks to check the spring rates, I will do that when I remove them to swap to the Bilsteins. The front springs look to be a similar rate to R33GTR, the rears are different though. I will machine a couple of extra circlip grooves into the Bilsteins so I can lower it just enough.

Hope that is of some help :type:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53079-stagea-suspension/
Share on other sites

They sit a bit low on the back, we measured it and it is level, I was told it just looks that way.

The only difference with R33 suspension and Stagea is the rear top hats are a different shape, the R33's are a perfect circle and the Stagea is a oval shape.

They do fit as I have done it a few times.

They sit a bit low on the back, we measured it and it is level, I was told it just looks that way.

The only difference with R33 suspension and Stagea is the rear top hats are a different shape, the R33's are a perfect circle and the Stagea is a oval shape.

They do fit as I have done it a few times.

The front guard cut accentuates the nose up look, but I measured the sills on ours and it is definitely 5 to 10mm lower at the rear. Most cars look better with ~10 mm rake to the front.:)

  • 2 weeks later...

So the suspension is the same as an R33 GTS-25T? Both Eye front and back?

What is the difference between R33 GTR and GTS-25T front's? I'm sure aftermarket adjustables would fit the front for both models? as for the rear the difference is the GTR has a fork?

Would this also be the same for the RS4 Stagea?

So the suspension is the same as an R33 GTS-25T? Both Eye front and back?

What is the difference between R33 GTR and GTS-25T front's? I'm sure aftermarket adjustables would fit the front for both models? as for the rear the difference is the GTR has a fork?

Would this also be the same for the RS4 Stagea?

The Stagea has all the heavy 4wd stuff at the front like a GTR, so I wouldn't suggest that GTST springs or damper rates would be OK. Much better to go for GTR front components in that regard. The rear is GTST, lower eye style, again if you are going to use a Stagea as a waggon, carry passengers and stuff you would need to choose the right rate of variable spring for the rear. A long stroke, big bore (large piston area) shock would be my suggestion (something like a Bilstein).:D

I'm just looking for the adjustables I sell through work..

The fit is fairly universal and they come with different spring rates as well as having adjustable damping and spring preload so initial spring rate shouldn't be too bad. The Stagea is quite a tank however.. 1600+KG dry..

I just mean for fitting though, a GTS-25T setup should bolt in?, not worried about anything else. :D

I'm just looking for the adjustables I sell through work..

The fit is fairly universal and they come with different spring rates as well as having adjustable damping and spring preload so initial spring rate shouldn't be too bad. The Stagea is quite a tank however.. 1600+KG dry..

I just mean for fitting though, a GTS-25T setup should bolt in?, not worried about anything else. :rant:

Ours came in at 1,658kgs with no fuel in the tank, with a full tank, some stuff in the back and 2 passengers it went over 1,900 kgs.

Sorry, maybe I need to be a bit more frank. Sure the R33 GTST stuff will bolt in, but the spring and damper rates will be wrong, very wrong. There is no way I would be using a twin chamber, small piston Japanese shock on a Stagea Especially not together with a reduced travel, high rate spring designed for a car with 30% less weight. The combination of chassis weight, plus potential passenger and luggage capacity make a Stagea very different from an R33 GTST, which is after all a 2 door coupe with appropriate passenger and luggage usage patterns.

My 20 cents worth:cheers:

the 33 gtst front shock is completely different. I found that out the expensive way. 33GTR shocks are the correct ones to use. I had Kings springs make a set of rear springs for me, they are a little soft than i would like but they should have the rates they used for when they made mine. Just ask for them to be a little stiffer, the height is perfect. The top of the tyre is about 1.5 cms from disapearing under the guard. I used 30mm lowered heavy duty 33 GTR springs in the front.

Works pretty good. And I used bilstien shocks.

Cheers

Gary

The difference is the length from the bottom to the spring seat. I put gtst shocks in the stagea first time around and wondered why it lifted the front. Then we decided to actually take a look at what we pulled out, and hey presto, we found the problem. Other than that, that is all that is different.

Sorry couldn't tell you the spring rates, I think they are the same as 33 GTR, cause the front springs are lowered 30mm heavy duty Kings, and I got Kings to make a set for the rear to match, but they are a little softer than the front and in my opinion, need to be a little stiffer.

If you rang Kings and ask them they might remember, it was only a couple of months ago that they made them.

Cheers

Gary

So if I buy some R33 GTR suspension. It will bolt straight in?

Hi Burkey22, as I previously posted, R33 GTR front and R33 GTST rear. The front GTR spring rate will be OK. But, personally, I don't think the rear spring rate and travel from a 2 door coupe is a good idea in a 4 door waggon.:P

I've got a 1996 Stagea RS4 myself. Been lowered on springs alone in Japan (factory shocks). Front shocks were a tad weak so I opted to replace them for KYB NewSR replacements, suitable for the R33 GTR as stated in the thread. The suspension place also came to the conclusion they were the recommended shock for the Stagea RS4 front. Sweet as, got em bolted in there, used the original bump stops, and rubber boot (they were in good nick) Installed them and find now the car is hitting the bumpstops a LOT! Anyone else replace the fronts with R33 ones using factory bumpstops and having same grief? Suspension place is looking into it for me, left them the factory one out of the car this morning to take measurements from and compare. Hope it can get sorted or else I'm going to go back to the factory shocks for now, even though they are tired as they don't hit the stops (well not as noticeably as the new ones do).

Any thoughts for a newby to the stagea?

As SK said - the spring rates are crucial and need to be correct - if not you will have probs. I ahve a set of Tein S tech springs swimming their way over at the moment, will keep you posted.

Ken

thanks would aprecaite that. If anyone finds out required spring rates looks like afew of us are keen for the information :D

I'm confused though how my old factory tired shocks didn't seem to have the problem as severe as the replacement KYB's. They have confirmed that the factory and R33 GTR ones are identical lengths in every aspect though, so it's rulling out a difference in the body of the shock. Springs are my next port of call, seeing as I really do not know the history of the chosen springs, (Blue coloured with Type R written on them) all I know is they are from Japan. For all I know they came off a Toyota Starlet :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...