Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

I have put together a list of parts I’m planing to get to sort my car out, all from Whiteline. What I have listed is essentially all from the R33 GTR kit minus the rear Shocks and Springs. The rear shocks are R33GTS Bilsteins. But I have been unable to find a spring to mach. Using the GTR front spring and shock combo will give a hight of 355mm and I would like to aim for a rear hight of 360.

Has any one worked out what rear spring is suitable and if so what the part number is?

Dose any one know what the weight is of the Whiteline GTR front spring 83159?

The stock springs are Front 165 lbs per inch and Rear 170 lbs per inch giving the rear 8.25%. heavier weight. I would assume it would be a good idea to aim for a rear spring that is the same % heavier than the Whiteline GTR front spring as with the stock springs.

Alignment settings

Front toe 0

Rear toe 0.5

Front camber 2 Negative

Front caster L 5.5

Front caster R 5

Rear camber 1 Negative

Front Height 355

Rear Height 360

Alignment Bushes Part Number Price

Front Caster adj KCA332 $120.73

Front Camber adj kit KCA348 $163.55

Rear Camber adj kit KCA347 $136.36

Sway Bars

Fronts - adjustable whiteline BNF27Z $213.64

Rear - adjustable whiteline BNR11XZ $241.82

Shocks

Front Bilstein 120370 $308.18

Rears Bilstein 120110 $261.27

Springs

Front Stock 165 lbs per inch Whiteline 83159 $158.18

Rear Stock 170 lbs per inch Aftermarket ? $158.18

Total $1,761.91

With GST $1,938.10

I have put together a list of parts I’m planing to get to sort my car out, all from Whiteline. What I have listed is essentially all from the R33 GTR kit minus the rear Shocks and Springs.  The rear shocks are R33GTS Bilsteins.  But I have been unable to find a spring to mach.  Using the GTR front spring and shock combo will give a hight of 355mm and I would like to aim for a rear hight of 360.

Has any one worked out what rear spring is suitable and if so what the part number is?  

Dose any one know what the weight is of the Whiteline GTR front spring 83159?

The stock springs are Front 165 lbs per inch and Rear 170 lbs per inch giving the rear 8.25%. heavier weight. I would assume it would be a good idea to aim for a rear spring that is the same % heavier than the Whiteline GTR front spring as with the stock springs.

Alignment settings  

Front toe 0  

Rear toe  0.5  

Front camber  2 Negative  

Front caster L 5.5  

Front caster R  5  

Rear camber 1 Negative  

Front Height 355  

Rear Height  360  

Alignment Bushes                  Part Number    Price

Front Caster adj                  KCA332                    $120.73  

Front Camber adj kit  KCA348                    $163.55  

Rear Camber adj kit                 KCA347                    $136.36  

 

Sway Bars  

Fronts - adjustable whiteline  BNF27Z                    $213.64  

Rear - adjustable whiteline  BNR11XZ                    $241.82  

 

Shocks  

Front Bilstein                 120370                    $308.18

Rears Bilstein                 120110              $261.27  

 

Springs  

Front Stock 165 lbs per inch Whiteline   83159    $158.18  

Rear Stock 170 lbs per inch Aftermarket ?    $158.18

Total                                                     $1,761.91

With GST                                                     $1,938.10

Hi Burns, I have found the standard spring rates to be a pretty good compromise between ride comfort, load carrying and handling. With the multiple circlips on the Bilsteins I have found a good height. I could go lower, but I have loads to carry and race cars to tow. The stabiliser bars control the roll perfectly and the Bisteins have added the necessary bump and rebound valving so that it no longer feels floaty.

I could design a rear spring rate pretty easily and have a set made, but the standard Stagea spring rate is already pretty high. So I don't think there is that much to be gained. Certainly there would be very little, if any, handling gain on the roads we have to drive on.

Comments on the settings;

Caster is good, more caster is better, wind on as much as you can get.

Toe settings are fine, that's what I have used on ours.

I think the front camber may be a bit high at 2 degrees negative, you will find with the stabiliser bars that it won't roll anywhere near as much and there is not the need for that much camber. Around 1 degree works great on ours, with good tyre wear.

The 1 degree negative on the rear, may be OK, it depends on whether you carry loads or passengers regularly. They do camber up pretty quickly when you load them up, I have found 0.5 degree to be a good mid point, good for when there is just one person and OK for when it is loaded with 4 guys and their gear.

As for prices, I do get 15% discount from Whiteline, so let me know (via PM) if you want me to get anything for you.

:rant:

PS; we are down at Sandown, racing on July 22/23/24. I can bring stuff down with me if you want.

Thanks SK good points on the alignment I based my settings on what Whitline recommend for a GTR fitted with their kit. I would probably stick with the stock springs as you have only problem is I don’t have them. My car came with a set of Teni pogo sticks. I have a full whiteline kit in my Skyline and find the spring weights very good so I am thinking I may as well get some new slightly stiffer springs while I'm at it rather than trying to find a set of stock springs.

Thanks SK good points on the alignment I based my settings on what Whitline recommend for a GTR fitted with their kit.  I would probably stick with the stock springs as you have only problem is I don’t have them.  My car came with a set of Teni pogo sticks.  I have a full whiteline kit in my Skyline and find the spring weights very good so I am thinking I may as well get some new slightly stiffer springs while I'm at it rather than trying to find a set of stock springs.

I have a spare set of standard Stagea rears if you want them. They would be OK with the Whiteline GTR fronts.;)

I might take you up on that offer. What do you want for them? The prices I listed are the recommended retail prices off their web site, I should be able to get them down on that a bit but if not a 15% discount through you sounds good.

The diary is free on the 23/24th so I will probably drop down to Sandown to say hello and give you a hand if needed even if you’re not bringing stuff down for me.

Well, i have gone and purchased whiteline swaybars. I went into autobarn and the guy said he can do them each at 200, so i got the pair for 400. They should be in store in probably about 1 week, so ill update everyone how they go when i install them :)

  • 2 weeks later...

anyone know if tein 33 gtr rear coilovers will fit in length compared to a set of tein hr stagea 260rs coilovers?

i need coilovers asap and wondering if the r33 gtr ones will fit mine or are they a little shorter in the rear? :confused:

cheers

Brad

If you have a RS Four V then the mount on the hubs are different. If you have a RS260 then they will fit. For the RS Four V, 33gtst rear shocks will fit perfect, so any variant of coil over for 33 gtst will suit. For the front you need 32 GTR shocks, so any variant of coil over there will be fine. If you look around on ebay and the like you can sometimes pick up stagea specific ones. The E-bay japan is one of the best. Only problem is you will usually need to know someone in japan to have them sent to them, and then get them to forward tham onto you.

Cheers

Gary

cheers mate, well ive got the rs four with a gtr diff in it now, so therfore gtr style fork ends on coilovers, so i need either 260rs ones or gtr? and whats the difference up the top? can i modify 260rs ones to fit mine?

any pics jake32 :P

cheers

Brad

I think the rs 260 ones will go straight in but the GTR ones are different tops. They are bigger than the stagea towers. I have been told you can modify the tops to fit, the bolt holes are apparantly the same it's just the diameter of the top spring retainer that is different. If you can get RS 260 ones that is probably the way i would go, better chance of fitting straight in. In fact i know they will cause that is what we did to get the diameters. I took the measurements of a mates RS 260 struts.

Hope that helps

Cheers

Gary

The Stagea rear springs are parrallel (75 mm ID top and bottom) and the R33GTR rear springs are conical (110 mm top and 75 mm bottom). This makes the strut towers smaller in the Stagea so you get more load space, well that's what I reckon Nissan did it for:cheers:

  • Like 1

hmm, awesome info guys, I bought Espelir springs (60mm lower rear, 40mm lower front) but now i need shocks, so '33 Gtst rears and '33 GTR fronts is the go? I am just making sure :rolleyes:

Thanks. :P

hmm, awesome info guys, I bought Espelir springs (60mm lower rear, 40mm lower front) but now i need shocks, so '33 Gtst rears and '33 GTR fronts is the go? I am just making sure :)

Thanks. ;)

That's the go with the shocks.

I am surprised with the 60mm lower rear, 40mm lower front. Ours was 10 mm higher at the front when I got it (measured at the sills), it had that dictinct nose up look. So when I adjusted the height with the circlips I went 15mm lower in the front than the rear. Now it has that slight nose down look that I prefer from all cars.

Personally, I would never consider using springs that are 60mm lower rear, 40mm lower front in a Stagea, ours would have been 30 mm higher at the front than rear. YUKO!!!! I reckon 60mm lower front and 40 mm lower rear would look much better, but the coils are different (conical front, parrallel rear) so you can't swap them over, even if the rates where suitable.

:) cheers :)

hmm, maybe i have it the wrong way around then, its very level.

Out of curiosity, does the GTR/Gtst rule apply also with coilovers? I was reading in this thread that the springs were too wide for the rear of the stagea, but coilovers are more narrow. Anybody know?

Christian

  • 5 weeks later...

Just a question about camber kit

I have a vibration on braking, but no pedal pulsing. My mechanic said

that it may be the upper control arm bushes are worn. I think the camber kit

will replace those the the offset bolt and new nolothane bushes.

Can I kill 2 birds with this one.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...